Deere 3010 (early) Coolant Drain

I am changing the coolant on my 1961 Deere 3010. The manual says to open both the radiator and engine block drains. No problem on the radiator - but where is the drain plug for the engine block?

Bill Shields
Luray, VA

The block drain may have been removed and a fitting installed for the block heater. If that
is the case pull the hose off the fitting.

Parts schematic lists 2 drain plugs(key 1 & 4) on LH side of block. I don't remember seeing key 4 but I haven't seen a 3010 in many yrs.

Ditto what ET stated if engine has a coolant heater installed.

Thanks for the helpful replies. My 3010 has a hose fitting where the block drain might be, but the hose coming off of it goes into the water pump, i.e., a bypass line to warm the engine before the thermostat opens. I can't tell if that was there from the factory or not. I see nothing at all on the left side of the block. My only reason for concern was that the radiator drain let out about 2-1/2 gallons of coolant, but the system supposedly has 19 quarts capacity.

(quoted from post at 05:21:38 11/19/16)
Parts schematic lists 2 drain plugs(key 1 & 4) on LH side of block. I don't remember seeing key 4 but I haven't seen a 3010 in many yrs.

Ditto what ET stated if engine has a coolant heater installed.

Click to expand...

The hose is not a bypass line. Your tractor had an external tank style block heater on it. They are plumbed into the black drain hole and the thermostat housing. So just remove the hose from the fitting on the side of the block. IF your not going to be using the tractor in the winter an do not want a block heater then remove the fittings and hose. The cooling system will work better with it removed. The tank heater limits the flow through the hose where the open hose will allow more flow. This can actually make the engine warm up slower not faster.

The attached picture is on a JD 2510 but show how it would be with the heater installed. IF you do install a tank style block heater makes sure it is as vertical as possible, like the one in the picture. Also make the hoses run in a straight of run as possible. These tank heaters work using a thermal cycle. The tank has a check valve in the bottom fitting. This only allows the water to go from the bottom (cold supply) to the top (hot return). The tank heats the water it then raises to the top of the motor. This draws in cold water into the heater. So you have flow without any pump.

Great picture, thanks for sending! Yes, you have to be right. There was no external heater on the tractor when I got it six years ago, but there was the hose that looked like a bypass. In Virginia a coolant heater is not needed on a gasoline engine. My 3010 will start in the dead of winter with closed choke and a charged battery. It just doesn't get frigid cold here!

Thanks again. Very helpful.


quote="JD Seller"](quoted from post at 23:20:36 11/19/16) The hose is not a bypass line. Your tractor had an external tank style block heater on it. They are plumbed into the black drain hole and the thermostat housing. So just remove the hose from the fitting on the side of the block. IF your not going to be using the tractor in the winter an do not want a block heater then remove the fittings and hose. The cooling system will work better with it removed. The tank heater limits the flow through the hose where the open hose will allow more flow. This can actually make the engine warm up slower not faster.

The attached picture is on a JD 2510 but show how it would be with the heater installed. IF you do install a tank style block heater makes sure it is as vertical as possible, like the one in the picture. Also make the hoses run in a straight of run as possible. These tank heaters work using a thermal cycle. The tank has a check valve in the bottom fitting. This only allows the water to go from the bottom (cold supply) to the top (hot return). The tank heats the water it then raises to the top of the motor. This draws in cold water into the heater. So you have flow without any pump.
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