JD 60 still burning condensers and/or points, sputtering

Dromunds

Member
Our JD 60 was rebuilt about 10 years ago, and at that time I replaced the coil with an aftermarket coil It ran well for quite some time although we didn't use it heavily. Recently, I started having problems with it burning points and/or condensers quite rapidly. In response to a previous post, I was told the aftermarket coil had windings that required an external resistor, or replacement of the aftermarket coil with a superior coil. I looked around and found the original coil from the JD 60, which I had replaced during the restoration for no good reason other than I was restoring the tractor. (When I say "original" I mean the coil that was on the JD 60 prior to restoration). I put the original coil back on, together with a set of points and condenser, and it ran real very well ... for about ten minutes, then it started sputtering so bad I could barely get it back in the shed. This is the same thing it's been doing very recently prior to putting the original coil back on, I'd replace the points and condenser and then it would run very well for about ten minutes, then sputter so bad you could barely limp it back to the shed. I've been told condensers these days are junk - but something else must be going on. Can anyone suggest anything that I might do to determine why this is happening? Would adding an external resistor resolve this issue? But if that were the case, why was it that I never had to use an external resistor with the original coil prior to restoration? This has got me stumped and its very frustrating. Thanks for any help.
 
(quoted from post at 12:55:38 11/08/16) Our JD 60 was rebuilt about 10 years ago, and at that time I replaced the coil with an aftermarket coil It ran well for quite some time although we didn't use it heavily. Recently, I started having problems with it burning points and/or condensers quite rapidly. In response to a previous post, I was told the aftermarket coil had windings that required an external resistor, or replacement of the aftermarket coil with a superior coil. I looked around and found the original coil from the JD 60, which I had replaced during the restoration for no good reason other than I was restoring the tractor. (When I say "original" I mean the coil that was on the JD 60 prior to restoration). I put the original coil back on, together with a set of points and condenser, and it ran real very well ... for about ten minutes, then it started sputtering so bad I could barely get it back in the shed. This is the same thing it's been doing very recently prior to putting the original coil back on, I'd replace the points and condenser and then it would run very well for about ten minutes, then sputter so bad you could barely limp it back to the shed. I've been told condensers these days are junk - but something else must be going on. Can anyone suggest anything that I might do to determine why this is happening? Would adding an external resistor resolve this issue? But if that were the case, why was it that I never had to use an external resistor with the original coil prior to restoration? This has got me stumped and its very frustrating. Thanks for any help.
I would look at the condenser also. A bad condenser will allow current to flow. I have read on the forum that the Pertronix(sp.) electronic ignition is very good. Check all wiring and check the coil is connected properly.
 
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Take a look at the diagram below.

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Note the ignition resistor installed between the switch and the coil.

You might consider installing an ignition resistor as the electrical system was originally designed.

Take a look at the photos of the resistor below.

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Presuming that the system is 12V POSITIVE ground on your Model 60, note the green wire to the NEGATIVE terminal on the coil.

We use ignition resistors on our Model 40s and Model 70s that have 12V POSITIVE ground electrical systems.

No burned points and few if any burned/bad condensers.

Hope this helps.
 
Take the distributor off and clean any rust off real good between it and the governor case. Had the same thing going on on an A awhile back. It took care of the problem.
 
Thanks fellas. I appreciate the diagram and photos James. I picked up a resistor. I continue to wonder why the tractor ran fine for so long without a resistor and with the original coil. As I understood it, some early JD 60's did not come with external resistors but the coils were made for that with tighter windings etc. Others had the external resistors. Whatever. Installing an external resistor seems to be the way to go.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I will check it out, in addition to adding an external resistor. I appreciate it.
 
I've had my 60 since 1971. Never had need for an external resistor. When I got it, it was negative ground (still is) - that isn't the problem. As below make sure all grounding points are clean and tight. HTH
 
I have no experience with electronic ignition. What manufacturer would you suggest, and what specific parts are required? Thanks
 
Petronix makes a kit....you have electronic ignition on everything but your John Deere. Get the points and condenser out of the way...uses a donut ring on distributor shaft and a halls sensor pickup....uses 12 volts no resistor block...about 35,000-40,000 volts. Will fire out of flooding and damp conditions....
 
Electronic ignition is ok but if it is burning points after a few minutes of run time I wouldn't want to put that expensive of an option in it till I figured out what was causing it to burn them first.
 
I would remove distributor....clean up the base...check power supply and get a direct 12v...remove the booster wire to starter....get the proper petronix kit positive or negative...install in distributor...replace distributor...install new rotor button, new cap, new wires and new plugs....you should have the problem solved...."unless it is in the carburetor"
 

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