John Deere M Won't Start - Stumped

Hotflashjr

Well-known Member
Location
Western MA
I am helping a friend get his M going again. Last ran two years ago and parked in a shed, can over exhaust. So far we have put in new plug wires from Agri-Services, coil, top half of the distributor rebuilt and verified each plug is getting hot blue spark and are using Autolite 216's and tried 437's. We made sure the timing was good using the manual and are darn close if not right on as well as set the points. We tested everything using a tester light at this point and have correct power to and through the spark plugs. Each cylinder has good compression based on finger on spark plug hole, but have not tested with a tester. We have strong fuel flow through the carb. It doesn't even want to pop. Not even a fart. Tried a blast of starting fluid and nothing. No weird sounds while turning it over like anything is stuck and good pressure if you put your hand on top of exhaust or carb. We have also verified the air cleaner is clean and free of blockage.

Some issues - the carb was rebuilt but not by someone I know or a shop so I am not sure how good it was rebuilt. It is the correct TSX-245 but it is missing the little strainer drain on the bottom of the bowl. I don't think this is our issue. The plugs are staying dry so is it possible that fuel is not getting up drafted into the engine from the carb? With hot blue spark and correct timing this thing should at least try and pop. I set the carb per the service manual but beyond that I see nothing wrong with it.

Short of pulling the valve cover or having a shop rebuild the carb any other ideas? I am totally stumped why this thing will not even pop.
 
Hey Hot flash,
You say you have good spark to and through the plugs. If that's so try spaying a little ether in each cylinder and see if it fires. If it doesn't you can't have spark. If it does but dies quickly your not getting gas. At least then you know which direction to go in. I'd still bet you don't have good spark. Try this and let us know.
Good Luck, John
 
I thought about trying this but had never done it before and wasn't sure if I should. I will give that a try and see where we get with that.
 
We checked that. Put in a new fuse and cleaned up the terminals because they were a bit rusty. Got the tester to light up after that. Also cleaned up the terminals on the voltage regulator and made sure the switch was working and things were clean/tight in there.
 
If you remove the rubber hose between the carb and air filter do you feel a good draft sucking through while cranking it over?

Have you removed the manifold and checked for cracks or a bad gasket allowing it to suck air? With the manifold removed you can see the valves go up and down.

Swap the carb out with the one on that 1010 that you just bought and try that. Yes, it is not adjusted for the M, but if every thing else is correct it will at least fire and run rough.

Turn the dustributor clockwise / counter clockwise and try again.
 
Yes, removed the rubber hose between carb and air filter. Carb sucks your hand onto it no problem and acts just like my MT did so that's where I am assuming good compression and no piston rings stuck/sticking. Does not overrun fuel into air cleaner so float is working.

We did not remove the manifold yet because things there are a bit crusty on and around it. That could be an issue or another issue and I am guessing the manifold should just be replaced along with the gasket anyway however he is on a budget. We are just trying to get it to run enough to get onto my trailer and moved to his new house where he can work on it as money allows.

I didn't think of that with the 1010 carb and would be another way to go.

Did try turning the distributor a few degrees in either direction with no luck and then re-timed it properly using the manual. Tried swapping plug wires to make sure it wasn't 180 off "just in case" as well. There had not been any barely pops opened for adult refreshment so I was pretty sure it wasn't but you never know.
 

With air cleaner intake Hose to carb disconnected is it/ will it suck on your hand? Is the Hose coming apart inside & closed off ??
 
I'll double that reply. Had a DC4 Case that could not make run. Had fuel and spark. Finally shot some oil into each cylinder through the spark plug hole and turned it over a few times. Put clean plugs in and it started right up. As mentioned, do you have good suction at the intake of the carb? Can't be too much wrong. Good luck - Bob
 
Hose off entirely and will not pop. The hose is also pretty much shot on it and will need to be replaced so I took it off right away. Really good suction at the carb with your hand held on the opening.
 
Good suction at the carb with hand on the carb opening and air intake removed.

I think I am going to try oil in each cylinder and fresh plugs and give it another go. Then if that doesn't work try the starting fluid in each cylinder to see if it will pop that way.
 
I have to put a little gas in the cylinders of my LA after a long nap. Starting fluid evaporates so fast. A little hard to get plugs in and out of an LA.
 
The M is a little easier without the plugs dead on top of the cylinder at least! If we don't get a pop with starting fluid we will try a bit of gas.
 
Snow plow on the front so that is the last option in my mind. Taking those things on and off those M's isn't as bad as the one I had for my MT but I would still rather mess with it for two hours before I decide to take that thing apart.
 

It isn't a bad job, or maybe chain it up? I have a M with about all the attachments most are easy to R & R , even the cultivators ..
 
I always use mixed gas for the chain saw when priming an engine, if you use straight gas or ether it washes the cylinders down and makes it worse if it doesn't start right away.
 
Did you drain out all the old gas flush out the gas line and carb and put in fresh. My uncle has a 420 that ran fine in the spring but wouldn't even pop in the early fall. Replaced the gas and it started right up.
 
I would drag a dollar bill through the points. Put in two new plugs. Stick the hose back on the carb and turn the other end up. Put a finger over the hole where the weep plug goes. Pour a little gas in there and hit the starter. If it don't fire or drown the plugs your starter is turning to slow. Unhook the charging circuit and put 12 volts to it.
 
Plan is a new set of 437 Autolite's, dollar bill through the points and try that. Starter is spinning good but I brought the battery home and have it on a trickle charger and am going to bring a jump box with me. My buddy put a bit of oil in the cylinders last night so that will sit until we try this again Saturday. If that doesn't work I am going to try your suggestion with carb and then the suggestion of mixed gas in the plug holes. If that doesn't work we are going to remove the plow and I will bring my 1010 over. Swap the 1010 carb onto the M to see if that works and if not then try and pull start the M with the 1010. I am determined to get this thing started or on the trailer this weekend.

Thanks everyone for your replies!
 
Hot Flash, is the coil hooked up correctly? I have a JD40 I bought a few years ago. It ran so-so, started a bit finicky, but did start. Sometimes it needed a 12 v. jump, and fired instantly that way which got me thinking about how hot my spark was. Didn't have a lot of power, but I hadn't ever had one of those, so wasn't too familiar. Was reading posts on here about swapping systems over from + ground to - ground and everyone always mentioned to change the coil wires. I looked at mine and they were wrong. Switched them and it starts 10 times better, has more power and just runs better overall. Read somewhere that a coil will work wired either way, but it can lose as much as 7000 volts if it's backwards. Yours might be wired correctly, but if it's not, that might help.
Pat in Montana
 

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