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Deere A hard starting......... 1950

B

banjoman09

Well-known Member
When my "A" sits for a few days...seems I have to crank it forever before it fires....? But then it starts all day just fine once running...am I doing something wrong? I choke until fires but sometimes it doesnt fire ; yes, has good fire on coil. Maybe a carburetor problem...not sure how to set them... thanks.
 
Good fire on coil does not mean good fire to the plugs. Check that your getting a good blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap or more at both plug wires. Also check your plugs and make sure there not wet if it does not fire up right away. Wet plugs are gas fouled plugs and they tend not to work well.
 
Does your A have decompressors on the bottom of the cylinder block? If it does open them up before trying to start the tractor. If gas runs out of them after the tractor has been sitting for a while the needle and seat in the carburetor are leaking and flooding the engine.
 
If your "A" is equipped with the auto shutoff sediment bowl, it requires oil pressure to start the gas flow to the carb. Hold the stem on top of the sediment bowl down for a few minutes to let gas flow to the carb before trying to start. My "60", and "620" are that way.
 
My two cents... shut the sediment bowl "L" valve off after you run it. I find that if I do that there is never any gas problem in the cylinders. Have to turn it all the way out about a minute before you plan to start, to be sure the carb fills up with gas.
 
okay....it is a "regular" bowl but I have been leaving it "open" for a few weeks; I will close it when Im done running it.
 
not seeing any gas on the carb or on the floor; what is odd is that when I choke it it doesnt do anything- or help start.
 
Too much choke certainly does not help, 3/4 full should be considered the maximum unless the ice is hanging three feet from the eves. Throttle just off idle will have much more effect and I'm speaking to the throttle plate at the carb, just slightly moved away from it's stop there will allow the idle circuits to spray fuel into the passing air with low air speed found during starting. Idle mixture screw may need one turn out for starting?

Not odd that choking doesn't seem to work on these, kinda they way they are.
 
All these large volume air cylinder engines do not like much throttle when starting....back the throttle to barely open or "cracked" as they call it...this reduces the volume of fuel needed to start...the old engine would then go to open throttle....I'm not sure the cold start volume of air to gas but I know it's at least 20 to 1. If you open the carburetor you'll never get it to fire with starter...
 
It should pop right off whether it sat a day or a week. My 51 A with a distributor failed me the other day after sitting a couple of weeks. It cranked but no start. First thing I did was run a piece of clean paper through the points. Put the cap back on and it popped right off. This tells me it's time to file or replace the points. Maybe you have tried dressing the points already.
 
A '50 A should have a 71 carb which means it has the spring loaded choke identified by the little 3/4" round spring housing. Problem with these sometimes is that people will tear them apart and re-assemble them wrong. The choke plate itself is an off center one and must be installed only one way and the spring must also be installed the right way for all to operate correctly. It probably isn't choking. An A with good electrics and clean NON-carboned plugs can be flooded one minute and then with choke open WILL fire and start. A "no start" is usually no elect or no fuel as apposed to too much of either.
 
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