Old - 1020 Question

Hotflashjr

Well-known Member
Location
Western MA
In your experience working on that 1020, what kind of a pain would it be to replace just the rear main seal on the crank on that tractor? Would the engine need to come entirely out of the tractor and the bottom end come entirely apart?

I am pretty sure the rear main seal is leaking on our 1020. Getting a bit of engine oil running out of the clutch drain hole and the clutch isn't grabbing like it should. Ugh.
 
The real crank seal can be replaced when you split for a clutch and it should be replace when ever a clutch is replaced, leaking or not..
 
To replace it you have a lot of work. You need to split it at the bell housing pull the clutch and flywheel and then pull the back plate off the engine to get to the seal. Plus disconnect a number of hyd lines. The seal on this one is a bit of an odd looking seal as in it has a spring with it but other wise looks to be common lip type of seal
 
I was planning to replace everything that is in there while it is split. No sense in taking something that far apart not to fix it all.
 
You will need to split it before you try to order clutch parts. There are 2 different clutch's for them. There is the early one which if rusted up much can be and is a pain to get he pressure plate off and then the newer one which is a lot different and the 2 do not interchange. The older type has 3 nubs that sit in slots in the flywheel and in this one I am working on it was so badly rusted it took 30 plus minutes to pull the pressure plate since I had to pry it out
 
You might consider it but it isn't a big deal either. If you and your dealer are on good terms they'll probably let you bowwow the tool. We used to loan out special tools to guy's we knew woulden't abuse them and would bring them back. Course that was a decade or so ago.
 
My local O'Reilly's does to for me all the time but then again I have had an account with them longer then almost every one that works there plus the manager knows me well and buys eggs from me and I throw bags of green beans to him.

But now I''ll ask you this. Since I have the crank shaft out there isn't a need for that special tool correct???
 
You need the special tool, it centers the seal retainer to the crank, plus it is a 3 piece seal with built in wear ring, no way to set it at the proper depth,and press it in in one piece without the tool.
 
Old I will second MSM on needing the tool to seat the seal. The tool shoves the wear ring on plus sets the outer flange of the seal to the correct depth all at once. If you take the seal apart to install it separately you will ruin the seal.

Here is a picture of the tool.
a238557.jpg
 
So then can it be installed before the crank shaft is put in the block or does it have to be installed after the crank is bolted into the block with the main bearings??
 
I made a tool for the 4020 rear seal out of a well casing and turned a step on it in the lathe. You just have to get the proper measurement off the official tool.
 

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