JD Wheel Adjustment

My 1951 JD B has the wheels set out to the end of the axle shaft. I got the collar's off that squeeze the fingers on the hub that lock it onto the splined axle but I cannot break the hub away from the axle splines to move the wheels in. Is there a method to do this? I pounded the hub with an 8 lb sledge hammer pretty hard but could not move it.
I wondered if I could break the hubs loose by driving it around with the retaining collar and bolts off?
Anybody have solved this problem on this board?

soak well, for awhile than use a chain and a bottle jack. The bottle jack will only wk on its side with the handle up. Put the chain threw the holes threw the cast centers, Yes this is a 2 man job, but it can be done, I've done many. after you get the center off the axle use a brush wheel hand grinder and clean splines up, grease them and your problem is fixed. good luck.

I hope the person replies who knows the neat chain trick, which I FORGET. But there is some trick I remember about, just can't remember the details.

If you don't care about the paint, heat above one of the holes. It will expand just enough that it should move pretty easy. If you like the paint, well....

A chain and bottle jack will work if you want to move the hubs OUT, but you want to move them IN.

I would clean up the inboard splines with a cup brush on a right angle grinder and then apply your favorite magic penetrant to the splines on both sides of the hub. Rotate the wheel as you do this to get the penetrant into the hub. Do this for several days. Then put a chain through the holes in the wheel center and run it around the axle housing on the other side. Get the chain as tight as possible them rotate the wheel which in effect will shorten the chain and pull the hub/wheel in. You might have to rock the wheel back and forth to break the hub loose.

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This is one method of <a href="https://youtu.be/upivdShKCIM">moving wheels on splined axles</a>.

Hope this helps.

Along with what the rest said, unbolting the cast center from the hub will allow the hub to "relax" on the axle. Granted your problem is from rust but this will make it slid easier once it is broke loose. I recommend pulling it off then take a wire wheel to the axle and sandblast the inside of the hub. Should make it slide on much better.

A better and safer version of the chain and bottle jack is to use a port a power a cross piece and some all thread through it all. Works wonders on them.

Thanks for all the replies, it sure helps to hear from folks who have been there and done that!
It sounds like it is best to remove the wheel and hub completely and doctor the splines and re install. My problem is that the hub on one side is frozen tight and I cannot break it loose. I will have to keep working on it and soaking it and eventually put heat on it I guess.
I probably should not have moved the one side in at all since it will be difficult to pull the wheel back to the end and remove it now! You can pound the hub inward but is difficult to pound it out due to the lack of space.
Thanks again to all you guru's, expert advice is most helpful!

We would get the Collar off the Hub with the wheel off the ground, Rotate the wheel by hand and stab the Brake..after a few times the rust should be broken loose..

After the above, we would loop a light chain thru the wheel Center, out to a tractor Drawbar ( or a tree) and rotate the wheel to wind up the chain Loop..pulls the wheel right out..

To pull the wheel IN, Loop that chain through the Wheel Center, around the Axle housing, catching the chain on the Accessory mounting Bolts and rotate the wheel to pull it IN..

Grease is NOT advisable for the Axle Splines..the wheel may MOVE even if very tight..JD did, at one time recommend using Waxed Paper between the Hub and the Hub Collar...
We always kept some oil on the Axle splines and oiled the hub liberally before moving the wheels.

We had to move ours in and out twice per year..Out of the #226 Mounted Corn Picker, then IN for field work..the rear wheels were swapped, side-for-side, to put the "Dish" IN, for the corn Picker, leaving the wheel width at 29" from Center to inside of tread..making them correct for cultivating Corn and plowing..also was a very good width when using the Manure Loader..( Rear tires "Loaded")..

Hope you don't have much trouble moving them....it took me a time or 2 to figure out how to move the newer JD Hubs when the Pinions are Seized..but it is not a bad job once you know...