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1020 sleeves out serial number 045020T

O

old

Well-known Member
Well I did finally find the engine tag hiding behind the loader frame serial number 045020T so that is an early single o-ring type seal.

Now for the crazy thing I found on #1 sleeve. When I pulled it out it appears that some one had used silicone gasket maker in place of the o-ring that should have been there and the other 2 sleeves appear to be cracked.

Next thing I get to do is split it so I can pull the crank shaft out and send it to the machine shop to be checked and turned if needed. Does not look like it will be fun to split it either
 
Boy I sure hope it did not freeze and crack the block ? Make sure they examine it close down the centerline between where the sleeves sit should be the weakest part.
 
Ya I am starting to think it would be a good idea to send the block in and have it cleaned and also have them install new cam bearing since if it is like most engines the cam bearings are a press fit
 
Old; I hope you found out who that tractor jocky was so you can avoid anything he's touched like it was the plague. I'm beginning to wonder if this pit even has a bottom!
 
Why on earth would you pull the engine and crank just to have the crank checked? Pretty easy to do with the crank in the engine and engine in place. I hope that engine isn't so old it has that odd-ball rotating rear-main seal.

I've seen many of those old single-seal sleeves put in with RTV sealant. Especially 1010s. 1010s never got any update to go to the three seals. The old 1010 engines did.
 
I have no idea who has done what to this thing but I know for sure who ever did things to it they sure did like to use silicone and a lot of it. Never seen silicone used on sleeve o-rings before so makes me wonder if there isn't some other hidden problems with this block and other parts of the tractor. To pull the starter off was very hard to do because it was almost rusted tight and it took a good bit of pulling and twisting to get it out and the end of it looked like it had been in water for a long time due to how rusty it was
 
I pull the engine and crank because I am not set up to check that stuff here. Plus I also have to do the clutch so I have to pull the block no matter what. Plus the guy who owns it wants to have the crank checked and turned if need be which I agree with. Plus since it is being rebuilt we want to have the head done etc.
 
(quoted from post at 12:18:36 08/27/16)Plus I also have to do the clutch so I have to pull the block no matter what. .
Click to expand...

One doesn't have to remove block from tractor to R&R clutch assembly merely split between flywheel housing & clutch housing.
 
Ya normally I would do it that way but the guy who owns it want the crank pulled and check and turned if need be plus have the head rebuilt as in new seals and guides if need be. I have the front end rolled away form it right now and will pull the block some time today
 
No seals on the original head. I guess you can add some if wanted. Deere felt no seals meant better lube for the valve-guides and did not use any on this engine. Oddly, they DID use positive-type seals on 1010s when they came out in 1960.
 
Just got thinking. I just assumed you are working on a diesel. If it is a gas engine - there are "almost" seals on the tops of the intake valves. None on the diesels.
 
This is a gas engine. I do not work on diesels due to the higher torque spec etc.
 
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