1020 head is off. Cracked sleeve??????

old

Well-known Member
So just came in form pulling the head off. The center cylinder has a line running up and down on the sleeve and I can catch my finger nail on it so is this a cracked sleeve???? #2 or the center which ever you want to call it is also where I saw the coolant dripping from.
So do we just replace one sleeve and maybe piston or do them all. Does not seem to be much of any ridge at the top of the sleeves.

From the factory did JD use copper coat spray on the head gasket or does that tell me that the head has been off before and maybe who ever pulled it thought they had the coolant leak fixed but did not really have it fixed so maybe sold it to get away form it??
 
It's been off before,, and Change all 3 with piston/liner kits...check with some one that can get them from Reliance,,good kits for a lot less than Deere...Let some one else pay for the Fancy Mega store...
 
I checked this site and the sleeve kit seems to be a pretty good price but of course not sure how good they are.
 
Hi
I have never seen a factory fitted head come off with copper coat on with any brand tractor I worked on. I would bet it was taken apart, looked at and maybe the gasket was copper coated and the old one shoved back. to get it running to dump it, with all the other" issues" you have found with it.

I hope after all this fixing you don't find more issues after it goes to work. It sounds like a beat to death tractor, that wasn't worth fixing from some of what guys bring me here, and what you are finding at every turn. Green tin yellow wheels wears out just the same as any other color, and guys still pay a premium for that leaping Deere badge and the color even if it's totally worn out L.O.L.
 
How early a 1020 is it? If the engine has never been apart, and an early one, the OEM sleeves will be a lot different then new ones. The old early sleeves have only one o-ring each. New sleeves for an early engine are re-engineered and have three o-rings all on the sleeve. Later engines have one on the sleeve and two in the block (for each cylinder).
 
That is one reason I did the coolant leak before I did the clutch that way I can check the crank etc before installing the clutch just to have to take to back of the have the crank turned
 
Have not checked the serial number on it yet but did notice that the sleeve kits form this site have a serial number break down so I need to get the serial number before having the guy order the parts. I'll have to go out and see where the heck the serial number plate is on this thing
 
Have yet to find a bad thing to say about a 1020. I am thinking the crank will be fine.
I used an A&I kit in mine 10+ years ago, no issues.
Fix it, drive it. It will still be going when these current plastic tractors are done.
 
My worry is how long and how many times it has been run with the coolant in the oil. The guy who owns this changed the oil twice since he has had it and I drained it and all 3 times the oil has looked very milky. I have not taken any of the rod caps off yet and at this time not sure if I will be pulling the block or not.

One tool I do not have is a sleeve puller and wonder if I can pop the sleeve out like I did on an A/C C or a Farmall A. Or will I need a sleeve puller to get them out.

I figure I'll be doing all 3 sleeves and pistons and ring at the very least
 
There may be two serial numbers for the machine, one for the engine (on the engine) and another on the tractor (frame rail maybe).
 
What I found so far is on the right side sort of below the seat on a tag that it riveted on. Number seems to be odd to me since it starts with a 0. Number is o35057T and if I rear it right as for the serial number for this site it would be a 1969. May have to pop a sleeve out to be sure which kit to have him order
 
So would that be an early one with the different sleeves or the latter one
 
All you need for the sleeve removal is a length of steel stock and a bottle jack. place the stock against the bottom of the sleeve, place the other end on the bottle jack and pump. After the sleeves are clear of the o-rings (about 2 in.) they will lift out by hand.
 
Do not know. Where do I look to be sure that I find the correct number??
Thanks
 
Ya since it is still in the tractor I can see how that would do the job. On the A/C C and Farmall A I used a hammer and a 2X4 piece of oak
 
(quoted from post at 20:22:22 08/22/16) Do not know. Where do I look to be sure that I find the correct number??
Thanks

Engine serial number should be on metal tag on RH(IIRC) of engine block. Need to know if sn is below or above 162079. My guess is sn is below < 162079 because the tractor is a '66 model
 
Looked on the right hand side and all I have found is a casting number of T24962. If there is a tag it has to be down low on the engine and covered with the loader frame. So is that true that the tag sits low on the engine??
 

Serial number tag would be located about mid way on block. I can't locate any reference in 1020 parts catalog to casting # T24962 BUT parts catalogs over the yrs have been updated omitting some numbers & information.
 
I just came in from looking at it again and there is NO tag what so ever any place on the right or left side of this engine. Only place I can think it might be is behind the starter. Oil filter is on the front right side and distributor sits just above the starter. There are also no other casting numbers or any thing other then the T24962 any place that I can see on it
 
No I have not pulled out any of the sleeves at this time. Been waiting to hear back from the guy who owns it before going into it much more
 

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