Installing rear wheel weights?

PJH

Well-known Member
Do any of you guys have any tricks for installing rear wheel weights like those used on a JD 630? I put them on 30+ years ago, by myself, but I ain't the man I used to be. Now I need to remove and replace them - the weight next to the wheel center is loose. I keep thinking I could rig up something on the end of my engine hoist, but thought someone on here might have already invented something for the job.

Thanks in advance.
 
I've used many trick to do that on many different tractors. One way is the engine hoist and a piece of all tread. Lift the weight up with the hoist and then having the wheel so the first bolt hole it at the very top put the all tread in and lock it on with a nut on the back. Then you can push the weight almost all the way on lock it with another nut and unhook the hoist. Then push it on as tight as you can and install a couple more bolts and remove the all tread and install a bolt there.
 
Thanks for the good ideas. I dug through the scrap pile and found a nice piece of 2X2 square tubing that fit perfectly in the end of my engine hoist boom. I drilled it so I could pin it to the boom, then welded a vertical tab on the end. It worked like a champ to get them off. Now I have to modify a 15/16 socket to hold the bolt head. I guess I cheaped out and used oct head bolts instead of square heads, so the head spins in the cast center holes.

I got tired of hearing those weights thump every time the wheel turned.
 

Ditto using FEL with rd bale spear to mount weights. Keep in mind to correctly install the weights & cast rear wheels have timing marks. One must time 1st weight then turn each succeeding weight 180°. Long gone are the days when I could manually install those 150# weights but I installed a lot of them.
 
(quoted from post at 23:43:54 08/18/16)

I guess I cheaped out and used oct head bolts instead of square heads, so the head spins in the cast center holes.

.

There is most of your problem. You do know that Deere has a square head bolt with a splined shank that is driven into the holes in the wheel casting and each successive weight, right?
 

The cast wheel such as F1500R has a raised spot located 1/2 way between 2 mounting bolt holes about same distance from center of axle as the radius of the weights. These timing marks are so one can have adequate space for wrench to fit on and turn jack bolt when adjusting wheel tread. Weight has a raised spot on outer edge 1/2 way between 2 of the bolt holes.
 
Hi Scott - yeah, I used the Deere bolts with the splined shanks in all of the weights, since the heads are hidden, but I used regular grade 8 hex heads in the wheel centers. They've been on there for many years. I have a history of cheaping out, and it seems like the Deere bolts were $3 bucks apiece back in the '80's. I had found the weights in a salvage yard in Sikeston, Missouri, for $10 bucks apiece, and that made those bolts look pretty pricey, back when I didn't have two nickels to rub together. As I look back over the past week tho, I can't explain why I didn't replace those hex heads with the proper Deere bolts. That was stupid of me. I modified what used to be a good socket to fit those recessed hex heads.

Thanks for your reply Scott.
 
(quoted from post at 19:12:28 08/18/16) Do any of you guys have any tricks for installing rear wheel weights like those used on a JD 630? I put them on 30+ years ago, by myself, but I ain't the man I used to be. Now I need to remove and replace them - the weight next to the wheel center is loose. I keep thinking I could rig up something on the end of my engine hoist, but thought someone on here might have already invented something for the job.

Thanks in advance.

I just use a hoist and strap. Set it in place on the bolts (making sure to turn 180 degrees every other one, using timing mark "-" as has been stated), slide strap out, then shove all the way onto the bolts. You can use grade 8 bolts if you weld a spot on them to prevent them turning in the square hole.
 

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