1020 shift rails ALL 4 are in. But more--???

old · Aug 19, 2016

Okay so I have all 4 shiftier rails back in and they seem to work like they should as in I can shift all the gears. I'll put it back together tomorrow.

Thanks Tech 7 and TX Jim you where both a big help.

Now more questions.
This has coolant in the oil so which should I do first the coolant problem or the clutch that needs to be replaced??? O am think maybe the coolant into the oil then the clutch just in case I find a bad rod bearing or other such thing. So where there any known areas of this engine that would cause coolant in the oil?? Some said something about a porous block causing problems like this.

So which would you do first the clutch or the coolant problems??

Thanks

David G · Aug 19, 2016

I would tackle the coolant issue first.

Mike M · Aug 19, 2016

Liner pitting and bad oring seals will be the #1 cause of antifreeze in engine oil on these. Pull the oil pan and pressure up the radiator and look for leaks. You may have to do engine and clutch at the same time if the crank is bad and needs to come out.

old · Aug 19, 2016

Yep I was thinking about taking the small hose from the water pump to the block?? and doing a little bit of creative work so I can hook up an air fitting to pressure up the cooling system and then go from there.
I am also think the engine should be next just in case the crank has to be pulled. I would hate to do the clutch and then have to pull it back off because of an engine problem

JD Seller · Aug 19, 2016

Old just drop the oil pan and pressurize the radiator. Just one of the pump up ones that fit in place of the radiator cap work fine. You can rent the tools at O'Reilly or Auto zone around here.

I would bet that you havea bad sleeve or maybe luck out and just a bad sleeve seal/oring.

old · Aug 19, 2016

I tried one of those tools and the neck on the radiator of the 1020 is to deep for it to work. By the way that was well over a week ago when I tried to use it and none of the adapters would work so that is why I figure I will have to rig up my own way to pressurize the cooling system

Tx Jim · Aug 20, 2016

Old
You're welcome. I'm glad you're making progress. I agree I would address the internal coolant leak 1st.
Jim

JD Seller · Aug 20, 2016

The one I have has a rubber spacer to check the deep necked radiators.

Anything to just pressurize the block. Inter tube pieces over the water inlet and outlet will work fine. Only need 7-8 PSI for them to usually leak.

old · Aug 20, 2016

By the way I made a tool just to deal with the problem of the detent balls staying in place. Once I had that tool made the detent balls where a piece of cake so to speak

old · Aug 20, 2016

Yep I know the PSI does not have to be all hat much. I figure on rigging up a place to add air in the small hose that is in/on the water pump and use my compressor to air it up a little bit. I figure if I get to much the cap will bleed it off but I do not plan to add a lot of air since I do not want to pop the radiator

Blue Jay · Aug 20, 2016

Hey Old how about taking the drain cock out of the side of the block and add your air there.

old · Aug 20, 2016

You know that may work real well and the drain cock is a pipe fitting so rigging up a tire valve set up would be pretty easy

1020 shift rails ALL 4 are in. But more--???

old

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David G

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Mike M

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JD Seller

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Tx Jim

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