Is there someone that could talk me through the steps to diagnose a high pressure leak on my 3020? It will no longer start unless I destroke the pump. Pump is rebuilt and making 2250 pounds at the remote. I cannot feel any lines getting warm. The service manual talks about capping lines off but I don't see where it says which ones or in what order.
- Thread starter Deere_Man
- Start date
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
You just got ripped off with the pump rebuild.
Not going to say there isn't something wrong
with the pump but I didn't get ripped off -
done it myself. Everything was replaced.
I think it is more likely that it finally
had proper pressure and blew a seal out
elsewhere in the system. It worked just fine
for 20 hours after I installed it
with the pump but I didn't get ripped off -
done it myself. Everything was replaced.
I think it is more likely that it finally
had proper pressure and blew a seal out
elsewhere in the system. It worked just fine
for 20 hours after I installed it
Easiest way is with an infrared heat gun for the remote valves, dif lock, and the steering valve. If they have an internal leak they will be noticeably warmer than the surrounding metal. You can carefully look in the fill neck for the hydraulics to see if the rockshaft valve is spraying oil, and check it's temp also. Do this from a cold start, and if a valve is leaking the temp difference will be noticeable with in 5 minutes. The heat guns can be had at Harbor Freight for under $30.
It's not the pump,, if it is a console model the first place to look is the PTO operating valve under the dash, and like the others said a heat gun helps locate the issue,,and till you find the problem just rock the steering wheel as you start it,, makes a big difference..
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Tim
I have a question and GRANTED it's been many yrs since I've studied the hyd schematics on a CC hyd system.
You state pump isn't the problem but if stroke control valve wasn't seating 100% then is it not true that pump would never stop pumping oil when pump shaft is turning which could cause the hard starting problem. What if an inlet &/or outlet valve was not seating properly??? Why wouldn't leaking pto valve relieve starter load similar to moving steering wheel back & forth????
I'm just asking!
Thanks,Jim
Tim
So far nothing seems to be getting warm. The SCV showed 90 degrees after 10 minutes which was the only thing close to getting warm. Makes me read TX TXJims post and wonder.
I suspected the rockshaft as it will drop within five minutes after shutting it down but I don't see oil leaking through the fill port or through the hole in the back by where the top link goes.
Mine is an early model, no hydraulics on pto.
So far nothing seems to be getting warm. The SCV showed 90 degrees after 10 minutes which was the only thing close to getting warm. Makes me read TX TXJims post and wonder.
I suspected the rockshaft as it will drop within five minutes after shutting it down but I don't see oil leaking through the fill port or through the hole in the back by where the top link goes.
Mine is an early model, no hydraulics on pto.
I assume that you have a good starter and batteries of the proper amp. capacity . With hood removed in front of the dash on top is a large line that comes from the front pump, cap it off and see in it starts . if it does up on top of the pressure control valve is a pressure line that goes to steering and brakes ,on top of the remote valves is the pressure feed line , then under the pressure control valve is the line that goes to the rockshaft. but it would be easier to cap it at the rockshaft valve .do these one at a time ,somewhere in this you will find the culprit . Now you rebuilt the front pump, did the inlet valves and outlet valves have good seats and no broken springs ? Did you cut any O-rings at the stroke control valve and was the outlet valve properly adjusted and no O-rings cut ? You say it run 20 hours and was ok so I believe the problem is the front pump .This is a fast run thru , hope this helps
Donny
I have hooked my pressure gage up to the port you are referring to that goes to the brakes and steering- wouldn't start so that eliminates them.
Batteries and cables are good.
In the pump there were several broken springs but I replaced them all.
In terms of the outlet valve I did not have the tool to adjust it so I put the shims back as they were. Can you walk me through how it operates so I can understand what the pump would do if it were out?
I will work on plugging the other lines mentioned.
I have hooked my pressure gage up to the port you are referring to that goes to the brakes and steering- wouldn't start so that eliminates them.
Batteries and cables are good.
In the pump there were several broken springs but I replaced them all.
In terms of the outlet valve I did not have the tool to adjust it so I put the shims back as they were. Can you walk me through how it operates so I can understand what the pump would do if it were out?
I will work on plugging the other lines mentioned.
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