JD 2010 Transmission oil change and filter

3tilleys

New User
Good day...hope someone out there can assist me in locating transmission oil drain and filter location on my 1965 2010 gas row crop tractor? I purchased the shop manual and between myself and my father in law we can't for the life of us find out how to drain or change the transmission oil. I have done the engine oil and filter, but the manual doesn't identify the transmission. Should I have saved the $100 and purchased the operator manual?

Great machine, other than a few hydraulic lines, and new starter and electronic ignition it made erecting a 45' hangar at the lake and breeze (pictures upon request...lol).

Someone have a scan of the transmission oil change process?

Cheers and thanks in advance.....Dave
 

Welcome to YT
The drain plugs are encircled in red. Hyd filter is accessed on RH side of trans housing held in place by a cap held in place with 3 capscrews.

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Also, don't forget to change the oil in the final drives as it is separate from the transmission. Several years ago I have had one accumulate water (I could never figure out how) and froze in the dead of January.

With out looking at the manual, I think it says to use 10W-30 oil, I know weird....I question that too. I used Hyguard instead and I think it hold 1 gallon per final drive.
 
It's a washable/reusable fine brass screen (at least the earlier ones were, for sure).

NO need to replace it unless damaged.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies....I'll tackle the job in a day or so. Where is the fill point located after I drain and refill the transmission.?
The shop manual says 8 gallons, is this correct?

I'll look at the final drives, again the shop manual fails to identify drain location and refill location....
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Trans oil level check hole is on RH side of trans case and full level is when oil is a bottom of threads. Plug is the other plug(key 9) not circled in red in photo I previously posted. IIRC there's a plug one can add hyd oil on rockshaft housing behind seat.

Key 26 is check plug for final drive.

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On subject of washing filter one must use solvent or chemical such as brake/carb cleaner and compressed air. You can check cleanliness by standing strainer on end in a bucket and pour oil in the center. If oil doesn't readily travel through filter(strainer) it's not clean enough.
 

Thanks Jim, may I ask what manual are you getting your diagrams from? Appears to be "the manual" I should have purchased originally?

Will the transmission take 8 gallons and each of the final drives 1 gallon?

Dave
 

JD 2010 parts catalog. FYI you can view parts catalog on line for free at JDparts.com. Your oil capacities sound close although I don't remember final drives holding 1 gallon each.
 
Update:

Lost Hydraulics after oil change. I wasn't fast enough on my first oil change (filter took awhile to clean) and I lost the prime on my hydraulic pump.

Any tricks to get the prime back? I tried parking on an incline, overfilling the transmission oil. Anyone out there chime in to any tricks?

Is there another screen that I should have cleaned other that the large pull out filter in the transmission?

Thanks everyone...Dave
 

IIRC there is only the one big filter(screen). After cleaning did you check screen by setting upright in a bucket and pouring hyd oil in the middle to determine if oil will flow through screen???? Many screens have had cleaning attempted but not successful.

You could apply low amounts of compressed air into hyd filler hole attempting to push hyd to/through hyd pump.
 
Just as TX Jim stated, I would put it in a bucket and see if any oil will go through this.

I had a neighbor clean the screen on his 2010 years ago and had the same issue after he re-installed it. I put it in a bucket and poured kerosene in it, needless to say the kerosene would not go through the screen.

The screen looked clean to the eye and the hydrualics worked prior to him cleaning the screen. He bought a new screen and it resolved the issue.
 
Thanks Jim and Haymaker....I rigorously cleaned it with carb cleaner and then sprayed it down with AVgas. but never did test it afterwards.

I guess I will drain and pull it out again and do the test...I will also try the "pressurized system" also. The filter looked like new after I was finished cleaning it compared to what it looked like when I pulled it out though...
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I had to spend some time repairing the damage that was done to the top left corner of the housing that the previous owner did ....

Thanks again guys....[/img]
 
The system does not need to be pressurized, the pump is below the top of the oil level in the transmission housing. If your power steering is normal or sluggish and the rest of the hydraulic functions have ceased to work you may have a plugged divert er valve. From the looks of the blue silicone around the filter cover gasket area, that would be the next thing to check.
 
(quoted from post at 23:22:09 09/20/16) The system does not need to be pressurized, the pump is below the top of the oil level in the transmission housing..

I didn't state hyd system needed pressurizing BUT a few psi's of compressed air might force pump to start pumping if diverter you mentioned isn't the problem.
 
Update.....TX Jim you were Right! I drained the oil again and pulled the filter, washed it out and conducted a test....not a drop of oil came through, so much for my rigorous cleaning. I dropped the filter in a bucket of solvent overnight, even the escaping air had difficulty, the following day the solvent was washed out and another test conducted. This time oil was able to pass through the filter.
The filter was re-installed and oil replaced and without priming the hydraulics fired right up. I am sensing the bucket is lifting and working far better than before!

Thanks to everyone that helped me with this, I even did a victory lap and moved a pile of dirt.....in the rain to celebrate .

Cheers...
 

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