J D Model A hand start - converting to Electric start???

MARV2015

Member
I have an opportunity to get a Model "A" -1940 or so vintage that is a hand start. I have a parts A with electric start. Can I put the electric start flywheel on the hand start model and add a starter??? Easily???? Or not at all?????

Need to know soon!
 
Is your parts tractor the same vintage or similar? If so, it might work. The parts book is your friend. If you don't have one, get one. It'll tell you what will and won't fit.
 
It's built wrong.
http:// http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0675.pdf

What I don't know is how it got that way.
<a href="http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0675.pdf" target="_new"> PC0675.pdf</a>

If your parts A has the starter on top of the engine instead of under it where they put it on late models then yes probably. You'll need to swap out an engine cover for that top mount starter motor too. Use the parts pdf and serial numbers to compare flywheels, something tells me that under mount flywheels won't work on top mounted tractors. In other words they are too different. You need to double check that, I can be wrong and then there may be a workaround for the issue as well. My 44 A is still a top mounted electric start if that helps.
 
Thanks for all of the inputs. I'll have to re-think this as the parts "A" that I have is much later - about 1951 or so.

Marv
 
Wellllllllllllllllllllll ---------------- Now that this hand start "A" is in my yard - I would like to get it running!
Just HOW do I go about checking the mag timing?? It turns over easily when I open the petcocks - I need to install new plug wires and plugs -That's easy. Just not so sure on how to check for the timing on this one. Electric start models are easy.
I can see that I need to purge the gas tanks to get rid of the rust and the carburetor to clean it out. That electric starter I thought of installing is NOT going to work as the lower mount hole for the starter is not there. I might think of trying to find one of the top mount plates for a starter but I would also need the correct flywheel. For now - I'm more interested in just getting it started and running.
Serial number is 504088 which looks to be about 1941 - a bit older than I thought.
It does NOT have a power lift bar and no hydraulics - just a draw bar! No lights either so no generator. I do have an extra water pump so I'm going to see if it will mount up - otherwise it appears that this "A" just ran with water cycling as it heated up -without any sort of forced flow.
Any and ALL suggestions will be welcome! Did I get a deal at $700 or did I loose it??
 
"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Just HOW do I go about checking the mag timing??[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

To prevent the tractor from accidentally starting:

Remove the spark plug cable from the No. 2 spark plug.

Make sure the gas is turned off.

Tractor should be in neutral and the hand clutch should be disengaged.

If the tractor is in neutral, then lock both brakes.

This is one method of checking the magneto timing for the No. 1 cylinder.

Remove the spark plug on the flywheel side.

Place your finger over the hole and rotate the flywheel in the running direction (counter-clockwise) until you feel pressure (compression) of air in the cylinder.

Continue rotating the flywheel counter-clockwise slowly until the ?[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]L. H. IMPULSE[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]? mark on the flywheel lines up with the reference mark on the gear cover.

a235020.jpg" width="650"




Loosen the two cap screws securing the magneto.

Tap the top of the magneto toward the rear of the tractor a little at a time until the impulse trips.

Tighten the cap screws and continue rotating the flywheel counter-clockwise until you see a spark at full pressure (compression) for No. 1 cylinder.

Hope this helps.
 
You are correct. That model did not use a water pump.

There are marks on the flywheel for timing it. It should be explained in the owner's manual or maybe someone else here will walk you through it. It's been a while since I've done it so don't recall the exact procedure.

Is yours a 6 speed or 4 speed?
 
Looks to be a 6 speed - or at least a 3 speed with hi-lo shifter selector.
Thanks for the info on timing! Really not much different then a later model with electric start. Like the picture for illustration!

Now i find that I need a seat channel. That's the 4 foot long piece of U-channel that holds up the seat. I do have a complete seat assembly from a later model - I can try and put it on this one for now. I think i would rather have the original sprung seat - it really seems appropriate.
 
You can usually find those seat parts at swap meets. I've seen the later seats put on those, but they usually are welded or cobbled up somehow. Better to stick with the original style.
 
That vintage of an A does not use a water pump as it is a Thermo-Syphon system. Is $700 a good price? Probably not too bad a price depending on what it actually takes to get it running and condition of your rubber. New rear rubber will cost more than you paid for the tractor.
 
"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Now i find that I need a seat channel.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Take a look at the diagram below.

a235048.jpg" width="650"




Note the seat channel (Key 3) is designed for year models 1939 through 1947 ending with serial number 583999.

Hope this helps.
 
One note on James's diagram. It was taken from the A parts book. It says "A only". That only means that the AR's and AO's did not use it. However that same seat WAS also used on B's and G's, so be aware of that when you go parts shopping.
Just didn't want you to be mis-led by that, and pass up a good deal by thinking it might not fit.
 
It would appear that the same seat rail is also used on the "H" model as well. I was just looking at one today and thought about asking if they had a spare!! Thanks for that info!
 

Marv, dad traded for a 37 mod A and after cleaning up the carb and air filter it started this easy. Turn on fuel, set choke, open petcocks, check clutch, open throttle 1/4, turn to compression point, crank once &amp; it fired. Open choke and crank once more...pop pop pop pop. It was 50yrs old and pulled a plowing all day. It still hurts he traded it for dozer work.
 
OK - Here is an update on this 1941 A that I recently acquired. Got a new set of plugs and plug wires. Squirted some starting fluid into the plug hole before installing plugs. Third pull on the flywheel and it started - for a few seconds!! GREAT! It does run!!!
Went on into fixing the fuel lines and had good gas all the way to the carburetor. Got a new screen and gasket for the fuel bowl and installed - actually installed and removed MANY times because it would not stop leaking! Finally found the problem - an OLDDDD gasket still in the mount for the glass bowl.
After all was scraped out - the fuel was good - NO LEAKS! Put the tank back in place and bolted down the hood. Decided to start it! It fired right up and ran - wonderful sound from this old girl after so many years of just sitting in a barn! Took a short spin down the road - all gears checked out -even 6th was purring along - made me reminisce about my early days! When I got back to the shop it started running a bit ragged - then shut down. Had to tow it in the rest of the way.
Now I have two problems I need to take care of.
First - and worst - the oil seal inside of the flywheel is leaking - had oil sprayed all over the left side! Any good suggestions as to how to accomplish this task easily?
Second - a mistake I made in getting too anxious to test the old girl out by not doing a full rust removal in the fuel tank! I can see the big clump of rust in the sediment bowl and probably in the carburetor as well!
Guess the old "Haste makes waste" is proof enough here! More work ahead!
 

The oil seal is not to hard to replace. Loosen the bolts and pull off the flywheel, you may need to fashion a puller if it doesn't come easy. You will note that there is a set screw in the crankshaft spline that aligns with a groove in the flywheel. You have to line this up to get the flywheel back on correctly. Behind the flywheel there is a cover that needs to come off and then you will find the spacer/slinger which houses the oil seal. The seal is cork and should be soaked in oil for a bit before installing. To get the spacer/slinger off to replace the seal, the set screw needs to be removed. Also note that the spacer/slinger has a 1/4" groove which accepts the 1/4" square head on the dowel pin that is on the inside of the flywheel. This causes the spacer/slinger to rotate with the crank and the flywheel.

To reassemble you slide on the spacer/slinger with the new seal installed. Bolt on the cover. Install the set screw. Start the flywheel on with the groove in the flywheel aligned with the set screw. Make sure the spacer/slinger groove is aligned with head of the dowel pin. Brace the clutch on the other side with a block or something so it will not move. Slide or drift the flywheel on while making sure that the dowel pin engages the groove in the spacer/slinger. Continue to slide or drift the flywheel until you have .005 of end play and tighten down flywheel bolts.

Cork oil seal is part# D2124R and it is a good idea to have a gasket for the housing. Part# A424R.
 
Thanks for the added information - I did not think about soaking the gasket in oil!
Hopefully I can post a good picture of this old girl. I tried but it does not look like it made the trip!

So - one more try -Here she is! Serial number 504088.
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39762.jpg
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