70 Diesel -James Howell

I recently aquired a 56 model 70D. It's been
sitting for 10 plus years, but both engines
are loose. Supposedly nothing wrong with it
when parked, the old boy just retired and
didn't use it anymore. My question is, what
will need attention just from sitting that
long? It's been dry of fuel in both tanks
the entire time, so I assume all the seals
and whatnot are dryed out . Any pointers on
resurrecting the old girl would be greatly
appreciated!

If it were me I'd see if I could get it to run, then tackle the area that needs attention.
Repair rebuild, replace where & what leaks, 10 years stored inside might surprise you on how
little it might take to get it running. But a 60 year old tractor could tell you a lot of stories
of what it's been threw. It could also turn out to be a real Money Pit & never ending process.
If you plan on a complete restoration now is the time to start & do a complete rebuild of the
whole machine.

There have been many cases of "resurrecting" a diesel after sitting idle for many years and I suppose the condition of the engine, fuel system, etc., prior to it being parked has a lot to do with how much maintenance will be required to get it going again. I have an R diesel that sat idle for many years before I purchased it and was told that all that was done to get it going was to drain the old fuel and replace with fresh fuel, bleed the system and it fired right up and has been running super good ever since (going on 15 yrs). The purist will say that you have to do yada, yada, yada, and maybe you will run into other problems. Rather than just hooking a chain to it and pulling it, it would be quite simple to remove the flywheel cover and valve cover, and roll the engine over (you will have to block the valve decompression lever to hold the valves open) and you could check out the operation of the valves and lifters. You say the engine is loose. How was that determined? The pony (starting) engine is another story, but if it were me I would try to get the diesel running first. I'm sure you will get lots of good advice on here.

A complete cleaning , inspection and rebuild of the starting engine fuel system from tank to carb.
Ensure that the starting engine is getting strong spark to all four plugs.

On the diesel engine I'd make sure the rack is moving as it should. Don't even try starting it if it's stuck. I have a 70 pump and injectors on my test stand now that needed cleaned and repaired from setting that was stuck. Yours may be in better shape..

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]what will need attention just from sitting that long?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Agree with [b:654c4848f0]david from kansas[/b:654c4848f0] suggestion "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]remove the flywheel cover and valve cover, and roll the engine over (you will have to block the valve decompression lever to hold the valves open) and you could check out the operation of the valves and lifters.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the photos below.





Another good suggestion was "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]drain the old fuel and replace with fresh fuel, bleed the system[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

You might also consider inspecting the fuel system by checking fuel flow at all three bleed plugs.







You might also consider changing the oil in the crankcase and filter, then roll the motor over before attempting to start.

Agree with [b:654c4848f0]buickanddeere[/b:654c4848f0] on getting the cranking engine running.

We bought a 55 Model 70 diesel that was being pull started.

Bought a few used OEM parts, cleaned the carburetor, and new points, plugs, condenser to get it running.

You might also change the oil in the crankcase and air cleaner; the operator's manual recommends using 10-W in both.

The starter for the cranking engine gets electrical power from a 6 volt battery.

Hope this helps.

Good luck with your 56 Model 70.

Take a look at the photo of a 56 Model 70 we bought a couple of weeks ago.

"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]make sure the rack is moving as it should[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Just curious; what is the "rack" that you are referring to?

I'd suspect the engine had fuel in it but it leaked out either to the outside or inside the crankcase ?
If it sat inside I'd just check oil levels and condition and try and drain off any water by loosening the drain plugs. If the fuel is dry put some in it and bleed it and try to fire it up. I've had many of those old 2 cyl. diesels easily come to life after sitting along time ! Now the pony motor is a complete other set of problems ! Usually not so lucky getting them going without spending money on them.

Check the air intake system to make sure mice have not plugged it up over the years. Put 5 gallons of diesel in the tank, bleed the primary port, secondary port and the third port. Make sure you have good fuel flow at the third port. Remove the injection pump cover, move the throttle and make sure the rack is moving and opening both injection pumps. If it is I would belt it up to another tractor, motor it in the decompression mode (transmission in neutral, clutch engaged) for awhile making sure you have good oil pressure. If you do, give it full compression and it should start. When it starts engage and disengage the clutch to make sure the clutch pack is not stuck together. If you try to pull start it and the clutch doesn't disengage you'll be going for a unwelcomed ride. If the clutch pack is ok, check out the transmission, especially 3rd gear. I assume the brakes are not frozen up (???)

The injection pumps rack. It MUST move freely when the throttle lever is moved to high idle, AND when throttle is moved to the stop position. Old stale fuel can cause one or both pump plungers to stick, keeping the rack from moving. I see this trouble mostly on engines that have not run for awhile. That's when the local Mennonites bring the injection system, including injectors in for complete cleaning, repair and calibration service. Some do come from other states too, keeps the old Woodring & Wise JD test stand busy.

Thanks very much for the information.

Thank you all. Some real good advice in there. I have genuine JD service manual yet that I had for the 720D. Everything looks quite much the same as far as the pony and diesel goes. I will be belting with another tractor , that allows me to work on my own. Will post updates !

James...what's the serial number on your latest 70? I'm trying to locate consecutive s/n's on some 70's I have. Thanks!

This appears to be a late 1956 Model 70 serial number 7043241.

Hope this helps.

James ...thanks. Closest I have 7043529. I ran across 7043240 (the one before yours) in Cleveland,Tx several years ago.

Thank you all. Some real good advice in there. I have genuine JD service manual yet that I had for the 720D. Everything looks quite much the same as far as the pony and diesel goes. I will be belting with another tractor , that allows me to work on my own. Will post updates !

Mine is 7043187

Both engines are free. The original owner kept them turned over every so often. He just didn't have use for the tractor for many years. It's set for 12 yrs or so , from my understanding.

I have no. 7037108

It certainly is nice. You did well. I'll have to take a peek at it sometime.

I agree Jim. I apologize for the double
post, my phone was acting up today.

A few more pics

i'm jealous my 730 broke the flywheel and did some internal damage to engine i couldn't afford to fix it so i sold it to a salvage dealer he sold it to guy that wanted to restore it.
i took the money and bought an oliver 88