John Deere 2750 hydraulic problems

mvwhipfarm@gmail.com · Aug 11, 2016

I have a 2750 that has had a lower end noise for two years now. I had JD look at it and they were uncertain and said it could cost 1000s to fix. When you let the clutch out it would make a horrible squealing noise and you could feel it through the petal. It sounded and felt like a bearing was going. It has gotten increasing worse over this time. I would occasionally have problems with the power steering not working properly as well.

A month ago i pulled the screen and replace the filter to the power steering. The screen was clogged badly with what looked like a dark red paint chips. I also pulled all three drain plugs and it appears as though the source of the chips is coming from the rear axle housing and not the transmission. The steering improved right away and within several days the noise miraculously began to subside and it felt different when i let the clutch out. Something began to get lubrication again? I also changed the filter. The filter had no paint chips but had some fine metal discoloration. It seemed normal. The strange thing was that the filter had been collapsed on the inside of the mesh. This is a filter in a can.

One month later i have lost all the hydraulics. The loader and rear hydraulics are chattering and the steering is not functioning. I check the screen but only found a few paint chips. I checked the filter and it was crushed again with the inside mesh imploding. No paint chips. I tested the rear remotes and they are operating at 1200 psi which is well below normal. John Deere has suggested that the brake liner could be the source of the chips. It seems likely that it has clogged the system.

Any thoughts on this terrible mess. I am curious where else in the system something may have failed or clogged that would cause the filter to clasp and is it worth going inside to repair any of the damage at this point. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Tx Jim · Aug 11, 2016

Welcome to YT
I agree that probably the rear brakes need replaced. It sounds as if tractor has already been operated longer without brake repair than it should have. All those metal fines are difficult to get out of hyd system.

Robert Major · Aug 11, 2016

Hi From what I know of 2 Mannheim Deeres that had very similar issues with the hydraulics/brakes It could be beyond the cost of economical repair.
you can't guarantee it would be right if you spent 0000's on it, if Deere do it or you did it your self to save money. This is getting to be a big
problem with these tractors. If you search this forum for 2950 and a few other models.

If it was mine i'd be thinking bye bye and sell it to a wrecker and take the hit unless you want to rip into it and see how bad it is. IF you trade
it, some dealer will sell your headache to somebody else. or if you knowingly sell it at auction somebody else is going to be dealing with your
problems to.
I'm kinda surprised Tim s hasn't come along with a cheap deal on Dynamite for you! He really hates the headache these model tractors give when the
hyds mess up like this. Sorry to sound negative, but I personally don't see much positive with it at the moment.

Tech 7 · Aug 11, 2016

The noise I would put down as a failing throw out bearing. The debris in the screen is certainly brake disks.
If it is only red you have a good chance of saving this one. The silver coloured debris gets into a different universe.
There are two things that contribute to the failing of the brake disks; Oil contaminated with water (possibly entering the system through cracked gearshift boots) or poor quality oil. I lean toward John Deere or a main line oil company oil.
Any JD dealer worth their salt should NOT be uncertain of what it would take to fix this.
Maybe this is why you are here looking for other opinions.

mvwhipfarm@gmail.com · Aug 11, 2016

(quoted from post at 14:22:50 08/11/16) The noise I would put down as a failing throw out bearing. The debris in the screen is certainly brake disks.
If it is only red you have a good chance of saving this one. The silver coloured debris gets into a different universe.
There are two things that contribute to the failing of the brake disks; Oil contaminated with water (possibly entering the system through cracked gearshift boots) or poor quality oil. I lean toward John Deere or a main line oil company oil.
Any JD dealer worth their salt should NOT be uncertain of what it would take to fix this.
Maybe this is why you are here looking for other opinions.

I'm wondering why the filters are imploding? Any thoughts on where it might be clogging?

buickanddeere · Aug 11, 2016

The filters are imploding because the faulty machine is continuing to be used with a known mechanical failure. Which is making small and medium sized problems into large and and write off sized problems.
The filters are collapsing because they are doing what they are supposed to, catch and hold particles of dirt or crud. They are becoming so over loaded they are plugging and the high delta P across the filter media is crushing the filter together.

mvwhipfarm@gmail.com · Aug 11, 2016

(quoted from post at 17:51:30 08/11/16)
The filters are imploding because the faulty machine is continuing to be used with a known mechanical failure. Which is making small and medium sized problems into large and and write off sized problems.
The filters are collapsing because they are doing what they are supposed to, catch and hold particles of dirt or crud. They are becoming so over loaded they are plugging and the high delta P across the filter media is crushing the filter together.

You are correct in that it was still being used. John Deere told me to run it until it died unless I wanted to risk over 10000 to fix it. I don't think they ever pulled the screen or the various drain plugs to try to look at the oil. I'm a little upset as as they may have
Discovered the brake issue and maybe this could have been repaired two years ago.I was trying to complete the season and was considering scraping it. now I'm wondering if it is worth going in to look at it. The filter is clean and is not picking up the brake debri. So I don't understand why it would implode. The screen this time only had a little debri when I pulled it as well. I'm thinking I may have damage a number of other components by clogged screens and poor circulation. I was hoping to get two more months out of it and scrap it. Oh well. Thank you!

Tech 7 · Aug 11, 2016

$10000? I guess I work too cheap

JD Seller · Aug 11, 2016

Well since you have kept on running the tractor with the brake lining/fillings in the hydraulic system you have caused a complete hydraulic system failure. Your hydraulic filters are collapsing because they are so loaded with metal filings off of the brake disks that the filter material can not let any oil past. So the hydraulic pump sucks them flat. What your calling "paint flakes" Is actually the brake pad fiber. Once it was worn off you now have STEEL on STEEL grinding away inside each final drive.

Now the real fun part. Since you have kept running it even after the filters collapsed the filters no longer where functioning. So you now have metal filings throughout the entire hydraulic system. To fully repair your tractor it will need to have every single hydraulic component removed/cleaned/rebuilt. First you will need to remove the three point housing. Then both final drive housings. This will allow you to replace both drake disks and all the pads and plates in the brake system. You can easily spend a $1000 plus right there. Now while you have the three point cover off you will need to completely flush all the JUNK/filings/brake fiber out of the transmission and rear end housing. Then take the rockshaft control valve and piston apart to clean it out and replace all the orings as they will be eat up by the metal filings. Also take the Remote/Selective control valves apart to clean/refurbish them too. You can reassemble the rear end/rockshaft housing and transmission at this time. Now you will need to do a transmission split, right under the gear shifts. Inside here you will find the charge pump and the hi-lo clutch pack if yours has that option. Also the PTO clutch pack. charge pump and Hi-Lo pack will need to be disassembled/cleaned and overhauled. Then you can put that back together. Now you will need to remove the steering control valve assembly or steering column. This will need to be disassembled/cleaned/refurbished. So you now have the tractor done form the flywheel back. Now the main hydraulic pump will need to be removed/cleaned/refurbished. While all of this is apart you will need to flush all the hydraulic lines. They will be loaded with filings and brake fiber.

I could keep going on but you should be getting the idea that your tractor's hydraulic system is severely damaged. Mostly due to you running the tractor after the brake linings failed. If you had stopped at the first sign of the filters plugging your repair bill might have been $1500-2000. With the entire system polluted and damaged by running the filings through it multiple times, it could easily take $10K to fix the tractor and even then I would not want to guarantee it to work perfectly. The last Manheim tractor I did a complete hydraulic repair on had over $8K in parts alone.

Your tractor is worth little more than scrap right now. Anyone that ahs much knowledge on these tractors knows the cost of repairing a damaged system like yours is. Even after repairs keeping everything clean and working is hard to do. The reason being you can not get 100% of the filings and brake fibers out of the tractor's system.

I do not mean to sound like I am beating you up but running your tractor so long after the brakes failed ruined it. When hydraulic filters plug STOP and repair what caused them to plug. Do not just replace them and keep driving hoping for nothing to be wrong.

mvwhipfarm@gmail.com · Aug 11, 2016

(quoted from post at 18:31:59 08/11/16) Well since you have kept on running the tractor with the brake lining/fillings in the hydraulic system you have caused a complete hydraulic system failure. Your hydraulic filters are collapsing because they are so loaded with metal filings off of the brake disks that the filter material can not let any oil past. So the hydraulic pump sucks them flat. What your calling "paint flakes" Is actually the brake pad fiber. Once it was worn off you now have STEEL on STEEL grinding away inside each final drive.

Now the real fun part. Since you have kept running it even after the filters collapsed the filters no longer where functioning. So you now have metal filings throughout the entire hydraulic system. To fully repair your tractor it will need to have every single hydraulic component removed/cleaned/rebuilt. First you will need to remove the three point housing. Then both final drive housings. This will allow you to replace both drake disks and all the pads and plates in the brake system. You can easily spend a $1000 plus right there. Now while you have the three point cover off you will need to completely flush all the JUNK/filings/brake fiber out of the transmission and rear end housing. Then take the rockshaft control valve and piston apart to clean it out and replace all the orings as they will be eat up by the metal filings. Also take the Remote/Selective control valves apart to clean/refurbish them too. You can reassemble the rear end/rockshaft housing and transmission at this time. Now you will need to do a transmission split, right under the gear shifts. Inside here you will find the charge pump and the hi-lo clutch pack if yours has that option. Also the PTO clutch pack. charge pump and Hi-Lo pack will need to be disassembled/cleaned and overhauled. Then you can put that back together. Now you will need to remove the steering control valve assembly or steering column. This will need to be disassembled/cleaned/refurbished. So you now have the tractor done form the flywheel back. Now the main hydraulic pump will need to be removed/cleaned/refurbished. While all of this is apart you will need to flush all the hydraulic lines. They will be loaded with filings and brake fiber.

I could keep going on but you should be getting the idea that your tractor's hydraulic system is severely damaged. Mostly due to you running the tractor after the brake linings failed. If you had stopped at the first sign of the filters plugging your repair bill might have been $1500-2000. With the entire system polluted and damaged by running the filings through it multiple times, it could easily take $10K to fix the tractor and even then I would not want to guarantee it to work perfectly. The last Manheim tractor I did a complete hydraulic repair on had over $8K in parts alone.

Your tractor is worth little more than scrap right now. Anyone that ahs much knowledge on these tractors knows the cost of repairing a damaged system like yours is. Even after repairs keeping everything clean and working is hard to do. The reason being you can not get 100% of the filings and brake fibers out of the tractor's system.

I do not mean to sound like I am beating you up but running your tractor so long after the brakes failed ruined it. When hydraulic filters plug STOP and repair what caused them to plug. Do not just replace them and keep driving hoping for nothing to be wrong.

Your not beating me up but you are confirming what i had expected. If you want to hear the full story here i go. I bought this tractor with low hours from the largest dealer in Michigan. It came with a blown 3rd gear and i had to fight like hell to get them to help pay for 1/2 of the repair. A few months after driving it the tractor blew a piston. I then did a sleeve replacement and rebuilt the head. It lasted a few days and it began to overheat. I was told by my rebuild shop that the block was probably warped and would need to be resurfaced. So i yank the motor and they went over the whole thing. $4000 dollars later and with a few hours of use it began to overheat again. I then yank the block again and took it to a rebuild shop that has great reputation. I decided to junk the block and clean up the head again. I then purchased the last in stock short block that John Deere had for $6000. Now im into this for about $12000. I had an excellent mechanic formally a cat guy reassemble and install. That was another $3000. I final have a good motor right? A few months later the front axle starts to act up. I had to take it apart and rebuild the clutch pack. Then shortly there after i started to develop noises in the rear axle housing and transmission. Of course this was the time to address it but with over $30,000 into a tractor that i had hardly gotten a full season out of after two years and in the middle of my growing season i began to loose interest. It had already cost me 1000s in lost productivity on my farm.

After getting a summer out of it i finally decided to send it 250 miles up the street to see if JD could figure it out. At that point i had not checked the filters or screen and nor did they. They suggested that i keep driving. Yes i got two more years cringing my teeth waiting for an explosing inside the drive train. So everything you described is where i thought i was two years ago but i really didn't know. I thought of pulling screens and filters but i had pretty much given up. Im not sure i would have caught it in time any way. By the way, i never use the e brake on these tractors. I was warned years ago that you could screw things up if you run it with it accidentally on. So there you have it. $45000 later and maybe 1100 hrs of use this tractor has just about bankrupt me and my farm. I'm a small grower and could not afford this. It's kind of the story of my farm. Never knowing when to quite. If you know anyone who wants a good motor let me know. Thanks for taking the time. You confirmed what i thought but i am still intrigued by the filter imploded when it appears to be clean and unplugged. Ill have to take a closer look tomorrow. I think im going to load this thing on to a barge and give it a burial at sea. I live near the ocean. That's my story!

Thanks for your help!

JD Seller · Aug 11, 2016

It sounds like you have been taken a ride by the dealership that sold you the tractor and then later the one that looked at it for you. The second dealership SHOULD have drained the oil and looked at the suction screen. This is a common failure and is not too costly to fix if caught early. The cost for the first "check" would have been hydraulic oil, labor cleaning the sump screen and a new filter. Maybe a couple of hundred dollars.

As for the parking brake. This is not the brake linings your finding in the transmission. The parking brake is actually a band type brake that wraps around the outside of the ring gear carrier. The service brakes are more than likely what failed on your tractor. There is a large diameter thin steel disk that is splined to the axle. There are (3) pads on the final drive housing that are stationary. On the transmission side of the brake disk there are three pistons with pads that clamp the steel disk for your service brakes. The most common cause of this system to fail is for the steel disk to over heat and warp. Once it warps than the disk runs in contact with the pads all the time. Much like a stuck caliper on a disk brake car/truck. So the linings wear out and the pieces are dropped into the hydraulic oil sump. The suction screen will catch a lot of the larger size pieces. Then the filter will catch the rest. The trouble starts when the screen and then the filter catch more junk than they can handle. Then you have metal and brake lining particles circulate throughout the hydraulic system.

The collapsed filters you say look clean are more than likely filled with small particles of steel. Take a magnet and see if you find real fine steel particles on the filter paper.

I am really sorry you have had this type of costly issues with your tractor. The JD 2750 actually one of the more reliable JD Mannheim tractors. I know of many of them with tens of thousands of hours without any where near the repair cost you have had.

The general brake and hydraulic system of the Mannheim designed tractors are similar to the JD Waterloo tractors. It just seems the Mannheim tractors are more touchy in the hydraulic/brake system.

I really wonder if your tractor was damaged by poor maintenance before you got it. Cheap hydraulic oil coupled with water from around the gear shift levers can ruin the brake linings or cause the brake disk to over heat. As for your engine troubles. There again your trouble sounds like an over heated engine with a cracked head or cylinder block.

Truthfully If I was looking for this size/age/cost of tractor used, with many hours on it, it would NOT be a JD Mannheim designed tractor from before the JD 6000 series. The more simple tractor of the same size would be the Ford 6600 or 6610. Maybe not quite as nimble but a rugged proven design. Also the MF 383 tractors are about that size and held up well. The newer JD 6200 and JD 6300 have proven to be much more reliable than older JD Mannheim tractors too.

As for how your going to get out of your current troubles I have no good answers. The JD 2750 with a bad hydraulic system and good motor is not worth much over $3000-4500. Now you did not say what loader you have but if it is the JD 245 those bring maybe $3500. If it is the older JD 146 then your looking at maybe $2500.

Maybe look for a JD 2750 with a bad motor and switch yours over. The trouble is if the motor is bad then the rest of the tractor is more than likely shot as well. No good answers for as deep into this tractor as you are.

mvwhipfarm@gmail.com · Aug 12, 2016

(quoted from post at 21:57:18 08/11/16) It sounds like you have been taken a ride by the dealership that sold you the tractor and then later the one that looked at it for you. The second dealership SHOULD have drained the oil and looked at the suction screen. This is a common failure and is not too costly to fix if caught early. The cost for the first "check" would have been hydraulic oil, labor cleaning the sump screen and a new filter. Maybe a couple of hundred dollars.

As for the parking brake. This is not the brake linings your finding in the transmission. The parking brake is actually a band type brake that wraps around the outside of the ring gear carrier. The service brakes are more than likely what failed on your tractor. There is a large diameter thin steel disk that is splined to the axle. There are (3) pads on the final drive housing that are stationary. On the transmission side of the brake disk there are three pistons with pads that clamp the steel disk for your service brakes. The most common cause of this system to fail is for the steel disk to over heat and warp. Once it warps than the disk runs in contact with the pads all the time. Much like a stuck caliper on a disk brake car/truck. So the linings wear out and the pieces are dropped into the hydraulic oil sump. The suction screen will catch a lot of the larger size pieces. Then the filter will catch the rest. The trouble starts when the screen and then the filter catch more junk than they can handle. Then you have metal and brake lining particles circulate throughout the hydraulic system.

The collapsed filters you say look clean are more than likely filled with small particles of steel. Take a magnet and see if you find real fine steel particles on the filter paper.

I am really sorry you have had this type of costly issues with your tractor. The JD 2750 actually one of the more reliable JD Mannheim tractors. I know of many of them with tens of thousands of hours without any where near the repair cost you have had.

The general brake and hydraulic system of the Mannheim designed tractors are similar to the JD Waterloo tractors. It just seems the Mannheim tractors are more touchy in the hydraulic/brake system.

I really wonder if your tractor was damaged by poor maintenance before you got it. Cheap hydraulic oil coupled with water from around the gear shift levers can ruin the brake linings or cause the brake disk to over heat. As for your engine troubles. There again your trouble sounds like an over heated engine with a cracked head or cylinder block.

Truthfully If I was looking for this size/age/cost of tractor used, with many hours on it, it would NOT be a JD Mannheim designed tractor from before the JD 6000 series. The more simple tractor of the same size would be the Ford 6600 or 6610. Maybe not quite as nimble but a rugged proven design. Also the MF 383 tractors are about that size and held up well. The newer JD 6200 and JD 6300 have proven to be much more reliable than older JD Mannheim tractors too.

As for how your going to get out of your current troubles I have no good answers. The JD 2750 with a bad hydraulic system and good motor is not worth much over $3000-4500. Now you did not say what loader you have but if it is the JD 245 those bring maybe $3500. If it is the older JD 146 then your looking at maybe $2500.

Maybe look for a JD 2750 with a bad motor and switch yours over. The trouble is if the motor is bad then the rest of the tractor is more than likely shot as well. No good answers for as deep into this tractor as you are.

Thank you for the thoroughly and well explained explanations. I am sick of calling Service departments and getting people that can't articulate reasonable conclusions as you have so easily done.
Two years ago I thought it was a bearing problem in the tyranny which is why I gave up. I should have check the filters and screens then. Lots of lessons learned. Any thoughts on what specifically might be making the whole system fail abruptly? Are there any more places I could look to clean out? A stuck check valve or something. I'll try replacing the filter again. I would love to get one more month out of this thing before I scrap it.

Thank you so much!

tim s · Aug 12, 2016

When it comes to basic trouble shooting in older tractors the dealers are not the ones to go to, you can find
better information at the coffee shop than at the uncaring Mega dealers. It all boils down to walking through
the oil circuits like using a road map to see where your going, step by step through the valves and pumps
following the trail and looking for the road blocks. On these models the trail is a winding one and takes a
bit more concentrating.. the brakes are the start of a larger problem,and it is the first place to look,,and
the first place that the "wrong" oil starts to take it's toll, when the brakes go to metal on metal the
filings get through the safety net and create other issues, every bit of the filings that get through the
course mesh sump screen goes through the trans pump, this erodes the pump quickly as it pushes oil to the
filter, at this point the filter clogs and then trys to "implode"..some fines get by and continue on through
the system, eroding a bit here and there till other components fail..

buickanddeere · Aug 12, 2016

I don't know how lucky you are and really don't even want to suggest it but....... . Maybe, possibly ??? There could be a few more hours limped out of the old horse with just a set of brake pads, brake disks , a new transmission pump and a good cleaning of the transmissions sump?

tim s · Aug 12, 2016

and a couple magnets in the bottom of the case helps too...

JD Seller · Aug 12, 2016

I would drain the hydraulic oil and then pull the sump screen and clean it. Plug # 21 and the sump screen #19. Then while the screen and drain plugs are out dump diesel fuel down the transmission filler neck. I have even taken a pump up hand sprayer and sprayed diesel fuel all around the inside of the transmission through the filler an drain holes. Then if you have along blow gun for your air compressor try going down the filler tube and blow anything you can out the drains. Then reach in the drain holes with a magnet and pull everything you can out the drain holes.

Like TimS stated I have put small magnets in the bottom of the transmission through the drain holes. This will help trap some of the metal in the bottom of the sump.

When your done put the screen back in. Check and make sure the screen has not been suck shut too bad/long. If the screen has any damage replace it. Part# R53169 $23.36 list.

There is an inline filter in the supply line to the steering. I would replace this filter too. Item #4 part# AL31413 $31.65

IF you have a good quality of hydraulic oil already in the tractor I have strained it through a doubled up Tee shirt stretched over a five gallon bucket. Also letting the oil set in buckets over night will allow the majority of the junk to settle to the bottom. So still strain the oil but just leave the worst of the junk in the bottom of the buckets.

Then just refill the system and hope for the best short term. At the first sign of slow hydraulics change the filter. This could be as quick as 3-4 hours.

I once limped my planting tractor along to finish planting by changing the filter every time I filled the planter. I got the last fifty acres done without hurting anything.

I really wish you had posted here before your tractor created all of these hardships on you. Many of the fellow here have the knowledge to walk you through what to look for. TimS being one of the best.

Parts diagram of the sump screen:

Parts break down of the steering lines. Item #4 is an in line filter for the steering.

Here is a parts break down of the service brakes. I was wrong in my description about pistons with pads attached. You JD 2750 has a newer setup than the ones I am more familiar with. It is a complete disk (#2) with fibers on it just like a clutch disk. The piston is actually item # 3.

Here is a parts break down of the parking brake. As you can see it is a band type brake.

Tx Jim · Aug 13, 2016

One good thing is hyd filter is one of the lowest priced parts JD sells. AR75603 ELEMENT,OIL FILTER ADD 8.03 USD

Tech 7 · Aug 14, 2016

I would be willing to try this ESPECIALLY since there has been no mention of "silvery" looking metal.
As far as magnets (if needed) go to your farm supply store and get some cattle magnets.

Fletch3130 · Aug 15, 2016

ok so I have been reading about the frustrations with Mannheim utility tractor hydraulics for some time. I too have one, 1979 model 3130, in reading the comments about the magnets in the case, do you have to split the tractor? or can you put them in the drain plug holes? I figure couldn't hurt to do this. But would like to know the best method and best location.

Tx Jim · Aug 15, 2016

Smaller magnet can be inserted into bottom of trans case through sump screen access hole.

mvwhipfarm@gmail.com · Aug 16, 2016

(quoted from post at 19:32:11 08/12/16)
I would drain the hydraulic oil and then pull the sump screen and clean it. Plug # 21 and the sump screen #19. Then while the screen and drain plugs are out dump diesel fuel down the transmission filler neck. I have even taken a pump up hand sprayer and sprayed diesel fuel all around the inside of the transmission through the filler an drain holes. Then if you have along blow gun for your air compressor try going down the filler tube and blow anything you can out the drains. Then reach in the drain holes with a magnet and pull everything you can out the drain holes.

Like TimS stated I have put small magnets in the bottom of the transmission through the drain holes. This will help trap some of the metal in the bottom of the sump.

When your done put the screen back in. Check and make sure the screen has not been suck shut too bad/long. If the screen has any damage replace it. Part# R53169 $23.36 list.

There is an inline filter in the supply line to the steering. I would replace this filter too. Item #4 part# AL31413 $31.65

IF you have a good quality of hydraulic oil already in the tractor I have strained it through a doubled up Tee shirt stretched over a five gallon bucket. Also letting the oil set in buckets over night will allow the majority of the junk to settle to the bottom. So still strain the oil but just leave the worst of the junk in the bottom of the buckets.

Then just refill the system and hope for the best short term. At the first sign of slow hydraulics change the filter. This could be as quick as 3-4 hours.

I once limped my planting tractor along to finish planting by changing the filter every time I filled the planter. I got the last fifty acres done without hurting anything.

I really wish you had posted here before your tractor created all of these hardships on you. Many of the fellow here have the knowledge to walk you through what to look for. TimS being one of the best.

Parts diagram of the sump screen:

Parts break down of the steering lines. Item #4 is an in line filter for the steering.

[img]https://forumphotos.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/39172.jpghttp://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/photos/39173.jpg[/img]

Here is a parts break down of the parking brake. As you can see it is a band type brake.

Lots of good advice and knowledge shared here. I really appreciate it. I recently replaced the power steering filter and the suction screen. This round i have cleaned the screen and replaced the main filter that imploded. There's no lift now with the bucket or the three point hitch. There's a little steering. Is there a way to do a crude flow test at the pump. Pull a hose off the oil cooler and meassure?This was suggested once to me. Setting up a gauge would be more difficult? I am wonder if it is the transmission pump that has failed versus the main pump in the front? If there's inadequate oil getting to the pump the maybe its worth opening her up and taking a look? How hard is the pick up pump to replace? Like i said if i could get a few more months out of this it would be helpful. Its looking pretty bleak at this point though and i certainly don't want to invest and big money just to patch her up but i am willing to go inside and take a look. I would not want to pull things apart prematurely though before any testing should be done.

Thank you!

JD Seller · Aug 16, 2016

If you have little steering and no lift or three point then the pump pressure is below what the priority/pressure control valve trips at. This valve makes the steering and brakes have priority over the lift and SCVs.

This valve is on the right hand side of the transmission. You can remove it and clean it to see if that helps. I have made a stop pin to hold it open just to test systems but I would not run it that way as if the pump totally fails you have no brakes or steering.

Your loader hydraulics maybe supplied out the port where plug #15 is installed. This port is where you can check the hydraulic pressure too.

Tx Jim · Aug 17, 2016

(quoted from post at 22:54:14 08/16/16)
If you have little steering and no lift or three point then the pump pressure is below what the priority/pressure control valve trips at. This valve makes the steering and brakes have priority over the lift and SCVs.

Priority valve in photo gives steering priority oil but not to the brakes. Brake valve reservoir is supplied oil by a galley in trans case with oil from trans pump.

mvwhipfarm@gmail.com · Aug 17, 2016

(quoted from post at 19:54:14 08/16/16)
If you have little steering and no lift or three point then the pump pressure is below what the priority/pressure control valve trips at. This valve makes the steering and brakes have priority over the lift and SCVs.

This valve is on the right hand side of the transmission. You can remove it and clean it to see if that helps. I have made a stop pin to hold it open just to test systems but I would not run it that way as if the pump totally fails you have no brakes or steering.

Your loader hydraulics maybe supplied out the port where plug #15 is installed. This port is where you can check the hydraulic pressure too.

I've wanted a repair Manual for this tractor for some time but I really didn't feel like spending another dime on this ailing machine.
I'll try cleaning it out. Are we talking low pressure transmission pump or the main pump? What's the best way to isolate and test the two pumps? Weak pressure after the main pump could still mean an internal leak or supply problem?

Thank you!

Tx Jim · Aug 17, 2016

Are we talking low pressure transmission pump or the main pump? What's the best way to isolate and test the two pumps? Weak pressure after the main pump could still mean an internal leak or supply problem?

You can isolate frt pump by utilizing a destroking screw if frt pump has one(turn screw down to stop frt pump from pumping). Trans pump pressure can be checked on top of shift cover. Trans pump pressure should be in the 155-165 psi range. You can remove filter cover with an open 5 gallon bucket under opening,then turn engine over for 15 seconds to get an idea of trans pump GPM. Frt pump stand-by pressure should be 2250 psi.

John Deere 2750 hydraulic problems

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Well-known Member

New User

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