John Deere 3010 Gas Electronic Igntion Problems

John110

New User
Looking for some advice.

I own a 1963 John Deere 3010 Gas. I have recently installed new distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs and and pertronics electronic ignition module for 12 volt + ground. Since the installation I am able to start the tractor only with the key switch in the start position. Once I relase the ignition switch (back to run) the tractor will stop running. I have checked my coil for 3 ohms and that is correct. My coil has a built in resistor. My wiring is as follows as the instal instruction per the electric module. The hot wire from the ignition switch goes to the correct marked wire of the module. The correct wire that comes back from the module goes to the negative side of my coil. the positive side of my coil wire gets grounded to the engine. The wiring is correct as per instructions by Pertronics. I have checked my voltage at the negative side of the coil at it seems to be on the low side around 7 volts, I am unsure of this. My battery is around 12+ volts. I have not checked the wire that comes from my igntion switch to see what kind of voltage I have prior to the module yet. I would assume that I should have the same voltage as close to my battery. I am unsure of my ignition switch at this point. As up to the instal of the new module and tune up, I have not had problems starting the tractor most of the times. She could sometime be miserable to start on a cold start sometimes, although my next angle of maintenance will be the carburetor, but one step at a time.

I am grateful for any help in this matter.

And Greetings and look forward to any helpful advise I could possibly offer to this group.

Respectfully.
Jerry Long
 
Welcome to the group.

Sure sounds like you have it hooked up with the wrong wire from the ignition switch. It's hot only at Start position and you want the one that is hot with the key on, position.

But beware since the 7 volts measured might indicate that you have a resistor wire and it is clouding the issue somewhat. You may need to replace that resistor wire entirely or at least remove it from the ignition switch and tape it's terminals. There could be another wire already at the ignition switch that could be moved to the key on position that is standard copper wire and this one would deliver the full 12 volts you want to the pertronix unit at the key on position though instead of start only position.

The wire you could use now used to feed the coil in parallel to the resistor wire to give the coil a full 12 volts instead of the 7 volts thru the resistor wire that it needs to give long life to your points. This was done only at starting time and is no longer needed because of the electronic system you now have.

It's confusing, I hope you can figure out the gist of it to move a few wires around such that you have 12 volts with the key on. It should stay 12 volts with the starter engaged too, and that will allow it to start and run like it's supposed to.
 
It could be that you still have a ballast resister in the run circuit. If you have a 6 volt coil (1.5 ohm coil) handy, I would swap that in to see if the tractor runs with the key released. Keeping the 6 volt coil and ballast resister will give you a hotter spark when the starter is engaged, that can really improve starting in cold weather when your battery voltage is the weakest.
 
" It should stay 12 volts with the starter engaged too, and that will allow it to start and run like it's supposed to. "

That will NEVER happen because the starter will typically pull the battery down to 9 or 10 Volts during cranking, and there's also a bit of voltage from though the various components and connections in the primary circuit making for even LESS voltage at the coil.
 
I looked up the parts diagram and do not see a resistor block. It must be built into switch or the lead wire. You need to go to the switch and make sure you get 12v from one of the leads with switch on. Ifyou would like the diagram email and I'll send. Tks Chuck
 
Diagram
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