governor shaft on Model B

CurtisH

Member
First, I enjoy reading these forums and appreciate the feedback I've received to previous questions. I'm working on the governor shaft of a B6000 to B200999 Model B. I want to change out the bearing next to the magneto drive flange.The service manual talks about using a "special tool" to remove the magneto drive flange, which looks to be pressed onto the shaft with a woodruff key in it.

I don't see a good way to use a gear puller or bearing separator on just the magneto drive flange. It looks like the teeth on the gear and pinion would be in the way of a bearing separator. I was also considering using a press to try to remove both the magneto drive flange and the gear and pinion at the same time, but considering how tight all the other press fits have been I thought that might be too much and will end up breaking something. Before I get too far into this, any good advice on how to proceed?
a232860.jpg
 
Compress the spring while working the clamp between the hub and washer.
Snap rings have to be removed to get gear off.
 
You need to make sure the governor housing isn't worn out where the r/h bearing race rides.
 
rla,
It's been awhile since I pulled the shaft out, but as I recall it was not tight or hard to pull out. Certainly not a press fit on the right hand bearing where it fits into the housing. How loose is too loose?
 
You have to take it apart one piece at a time ! I use a bearing separator and push down on the magneto drive spring and washer and clamp right against the lip of the drive coupling. I then use modified press cross pieces that are just channel irons on edge so I can get it in my little harbor freight press and use an old water pump bearing center shaft to press against the governor shaft. Have not found any yet that I could not press apart with that little press. There is then a key and snap ring to be removed then you can get at the bearing race.
Those usually are not too hard to get off ? start with a chisel at the edge against the gear and see if it wants to move. If you can't get under it you can press the fan gear off and push it off. Or weld on the race and it may come off or at least get you a spot for the bearing separator. When going back together make sure your arms of the weights go under the flange of the sliding bronze bearing sleeve and not against the bearing or else it will not work right. I have seen them wrong before.
If your governor case is worn bad where the bearing sits in there you can either do the procedure in the I & T book where you use and extra bearing for a spacer and cut some of the spring and coupling off and move the bearing into a new spot farther out. Or best way is to remove gov. housing and have it repaired by installing a bushing into it. Anyone with a milling machine could do this for you.
 
Mike M,
Thanks! I'm glad I asked about disassembly before I got too carried away. Also, I had read the section about reclaiming worn cases, but nothing clicked in my head at the time. I need to go back and look at that again.
 
Take a NEW outer bearing race and slide it into the case. It should slide in nice but not be able to flop around. Good chance there is a worn spot where it was running at all these years.
 
Mike M,
The outer bearing race of a new bearing slides in with finger pressure all the way down the bore to the large snap ring. I haven't mic'd it, but there doesn't seem to be a noticeable difference in bore diameter from where it is normally positioned to other areas of the bore. There is no sloppiness in the fit when the outer bearing race is in its normal position, but I can rotate it in the bore with just finger pressure. Does it need to be a tighter fit? Maybe some pin punching or knurling would help?
 
(quoted from post at 01:45:25 07/29/16) Mike M,
The outer bearing race of a new bearing slides in with finger pressure all the way down the bore to the large snap ring. I haven't mic'd it, but there doesn't seem to be a noticeable difference in bore diameter from where it is normally positioned to other areas of the bore. There is no sloppiness in the fit when the outer bearing race is in its normal position, but I can rotate it in the bore with just finger pressure. Does it need to be a tighter fit? Maybe some pin punching or knurling would help?

Also loctite would work.
 
Sounds like it is in good shape. The wear usually is close to the end away from the snap ring where it starts into the case as the bearing normally sits in this area.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top