4320 and what they are worth

I found a 4320, owner will sell, not been used in great number of years, like 20+ and seems to be a very lightly used tractor. I look at it and see all the part number tags still on all the wiring harnesses and hoses, seems to still have the original green carpet in the cab, (it has a year-a-round) synchro of course. paint still on the brake, gas and clutch pedals. littleto ne wearin the lingages for throttle or shifter or remotes, still has very sharp pto splines, still has round draw bar hole, sway blocks not worn at all, lift arms not worn at all, no leaks that I can see, paint looks to have patina from 45 years of age, It looks like a genuine survivor. Coolant full, oil full, hyd. full. dirty and rough from 45 years, not dented, banged, welded, still has paint on and no wear on lever sides from remote/lift arm useage. I want to go get it running and see what it looks like in work clothes, tach reads 2987 I believe. Owner says that is correct. judging from the rest of his stuff (from similar era) I would not be surprised. Is this thingworth buying and figuring to get some great useage or is it more worn out from setting and be nothing but trouble? What would be a fair price, round figure, 16.9r38 rubber and clamp on duals, pancake front weights, wheel weights, and 900-16 fronts. I guess It is a 1971, since these were only 1971-72 and it appears that the early tractors (prior to 1972) had model midship above steps, like 4010 and early 4020 has, and 1972> had numbers in front, like newer models up by fuel tank, this one had numbers back by steps. Any feedback is OK. Thanks.

It'll be a big can of worms. You shouldn't buy it. But where was it?

It is probably a very nice tractor. You should persue it!

As for the location of the model number decals, that is NOT an indication of year. If they left the factory with a cab, the numbers were on the front panels. If open station, they were on the panels over the starter (back panels).

Once you get it bought, post some pictures so the rest of us can drool!

I would buy it in a heart beat if everything is like you say it is. I think the cab brings the price down some unless it has the factory fenders and rock shaft covers. 12-18 thousand maybe?? Larry has a great grasp on pricing. Post some pics when you buy it.

P & K MIDWEST, INC has one on the lot with cab, very nice condition. http://inventory.pkmidwest.com/?machineid=4885343
4320

Sounds like a low houred survivor.71 or 72 doesn't make a lot of difference but 72s are preferred.The serial number is on the back and 17030 was last 71 with a total of 21,485 made.Having an after market cab is a plus as the floor board and rock shaft covers should be there.Be prepaired to spend around $1000 for correct fenders ,lights,and harnesses.I have had several and have newer sold a nice one over $20K with 1900 being the lowest houred one.As long as exhaust is covered and preferably in side it should be fine.If tires are good and I assume you will need batteries ,clean up and possible paint and complete fluid change might get you going.As for price I would want to be around the $12K.

Well, I didn't notice an air stack, which sounds like a good thing since it seems that these came without hood air stacks then dealer added hood stacks for overheating/plugged air filter problem. Means never had that problem maybe. Tires are probably not "good" but holding air, appear to be calcium filled. sat outside, no back window, but seems to not be too bad for the circumstances, we get very little rain fall here and mild winters, not terrible sun baking either. has toplink, owner priced it at $8000 but said "Get it running and make an offer. I just figured it was a starting point" It has a cab but maybe dealer or aftermarket, no AC, looks like never an AC. tires are stillall up, even duals. I hope to take a battery over tomorrow and see if it cranks and fires, then offer $6000 or maybe offer $6000 and then see if it will start. There is a lot of those old 10 and 20 series around here, but the dealer has a 4320 with cab for sale on lot for $10000 and it hasn't moved for a while. That makes me a little nervous, but it is pretty rough, no duals, no weights. I might be able to turn a nice tractor here and then in 5 years say "that sure was a nice tractor, I wish I had never sold it" but I always liked 4020 and 4320 tractors, never had one, just really liked them. Thanks for the advice.

Sounds like a nice tractor and price is RIGHT.

Pickle time. Is it worth the gamble to you? Any tractor sitting 20 years is gonna have problems but you never know what untill she's back up and running. Problem is you get it running and the price always go's up. Sounds like a good deal but still a gamble.

4240 Turbo there is no substitute for hours .Low houred tractor if correct are usually a good investment.Many aren't what they are suppose to be but from what you described this one probably is.The salvage price from used parts dealers on popular tractors is around $40/50 per H.P. A good 4320 hood will bring $750 +.You are going to spend at least $2000 on new tires ,paint $2500 on a good job or leave it.Paint makes them look nice but has no effect on using it.Another $500 on all oil and filter change.Seat if not nice can be $250,batteries $250,fenders and lights $750+ so it adds up quick.I have bought nice original ones that are field ready but around 5000/6000 hours [witch is still low] for around $15K and used and eventually sold them.

Settle on a price BEFORE you get it running . You don't want to buy and sell it for him. I would not hesitate to buy if he doesn't want an arm and a leg for it .

Thanks for the advice. I would likely buy it to resell, get it running and working, fix whatever is wrong (I agree totally that the thing is going to be a can of worms) and putit for sale as an original "survivor" I for one alwayswas more comfortable buying a "original" than a repaint, a restored, or a rebuilt unit. Just my opinion, but I have done a lot of painting, and I have resources enough to pull cab, repaint, replace mounts, new liner, new seat and all and all. Started out at 18-19 as a diesel and heavy equipment and truck mechanic, not much problem tackling a rebuild. If I get bites on the "survivor tractor" I would be ready to sell, if I get 6 months in and a bunch of low ball tire kickers, "Well, the paint went bad after the war" "well the tires aren't much anymore" My reaction is usually really simple..... find a better one, you won't and/or can't, or better yet find a better one for less. If it seems like an awesome tractor, just love it, I might keep it to farm with, but I have a case 1070, almost equivalent tractor, new motor, new power shift, new limiter clutch, good tires, that ismy farm horse, along with a jd 60 and my brother has 1105 massey. I can't see any need to keep this horse, unless I just loveit then sellthe 1070. I may be way off in my prediction, but I anticipate if the tractor works and functions, that I would be able to get $11000-12000 running and working. Now, that is far from a big profit margin, after new fluids, new filters, new batterys, new belts, back window, unless he has in a shed, hauling it home, fixing the batterycables (I am sure they aren't much good) washing, cleaning, detailing, I am sure the old fuel system needs resealed, so after all said and done just to get it running nice, hoping the rear main or water pump or what have you isn't shot, I figure $2000 in repairs, oil and filter, $100, hyd oil and filter $150 fuel filter, $25 air filter $50 antifreeze and coolant system flush $150 belts $50 last I remember for matched set radiator and fuel cap, $50 batteries $125 cables $75 back window $150, haul myself but still $100 fuel and time and wear ant tear there is $1000, and that is not even getting it driving, just starting and running, so that leaves $1000 for ????? and hopefully that will put me close to a solid tractor and have roughly $9000 in, then tires and hopefully not wheels, after a lifetime of calcium. If I can use it for a season and make $1000 in profit, I am pulling the trigger, if It doesn't feel right I leave it set for the next 20 years. I doubt it is going anywhere.

I guess what I was asking is more what a sale price would be or rather close to. I see a ton of these things for sale in the $12000-15000 range, a few lower, quite a few higher. That doesn't mean they are bringing that though. Just because they are advertised for a certain price, what is the market bearing? Is it feasible to figure if I put my mind to it that a solid tractor could be had for under $10000 or am I looking for a needle in a haystack? Are these old 20 series bringing upwards of $15000 on sale day?

Keep in mind that with current grain prices many tractors sold this year will be way overpriced next year. What you plan to do sounds ok but with the time and money you have invested you need to make a good profit. I just overhauled a 4020 with water in oil that the owner offered to sell me at a good price but I made more money by fixing it for him.There is a demand for quality repair work and you might make more working on a tractor for someone that on this one. But I like challenges so I would more than likely buy it myself.Tom

So if theres lots of 10 and 20 series tractors where you are, what are 4010/4020 gassers bringing? What state r u in?

I came to $7000 5 pancake weights, 2 wheel weights per side, 4 total, clamp on duals, 16.9r38 rears deep tread bad sidewalls, slight rust starting around valve stem from calcium, no rear window, needs batterys, cables, seat, cab kit is shot, belts, door has been tore off and welded, but still works. All the lights and gauges register, no blow by, quiet motor, no air stack, left side emblem broke in half right side emblem good, has rockshaft cover, 2 remotes, and has nice open station fenders. Has alternator, not sure if these had generators or alternators, lift arms work, both remotes seem to work, pto comes on, cranks over good and fires right up. brakes seem firm. Coolant was about half gone, not sure where it went. Hood looks really strait, I didn't see a single dent in it anywhere. It must have one, but I sure couldn't find it. I was trying to be gentle but broke one of the hinges for the left lower window while attempting to access starter to jump it. Battery trays look nice, I didn't see a diff lock pedal? Did some not have diff lock or was it buried in the foam from the bad cab kit? 1972 model, SN 21,3xx I believe. Has fair size dent on top left front corner of cab, I didn't see any rust other than starting at rims. Fronts are OK looking but almost smooth. Front end seems real tight in bushings and tie rods. Needs pressure washed, needs lots of clean up, There is an area that the paint is rubbed through on both sides from the cab rubbing on the side panels, but not bad. 2973.5 on the clock, engine surges, maybe from air, seemed like it might be drawing air between tank and lift pump. Or maybe it is getting ready to have the roosa master governor ring episode, I hopenot but it sure acts like that to me. I see a leak on the front of the motor, maybe oil, running down, around water pump off of left side of block. Not big but definitely has a leak and some caked on dirt. Fan blades have just started to wear paint off of tips. I am going to look into cost of parts to fix and see if I can come to terms on this thing. Thanks for all the information.

I don't see many gas. A few, but not enough to say a price. We are 6000' above sea level, and gas farm equipment is not good here, really lowon power, and really prone to overheating. Atmospheric density not conducive to gas powered as well as 95-100 degree in the summer, really hard to get gassers to perform.

The first thing is get rid of cab and not spend any money on windows and such as you already have the fenders so from everything you have written I don't see any problem making a profit as the hours are still the key.You just don't find them under 3000 hours,

I have one and love it. Like it so much I went to an auction last fall to buy one. A local guy had 2 selling there. One had a 158 loader with snap on duels, the other was just the tractor. Nice running decent tractors with paint that was 2yrs old, but not perfect by any means. I was dead set on buying the one with the loader. Decided I'd go 12500. While I was there I tough talked myself up to 13500. I never even got a bid in. The loader one sold for 17k the other for 15k. Couldn't believe it. I thought I was going to over pay at my marks. So at that price, if it's as nice as you say, I'd try talking him down a little, but buy it. I'm in Michigan.

Thanks for the comments. I should be able to close up the deal within the week. If Istrip the cab, where is a good sourcefor the open station steps?

Cab hurts it. Number location had nothing to do with year.
Numbers in front were for cab tractors.

I can leave or strip cab, In all honesty I would like to leave it and make it the next guy's problem, I have asked around and found out that it seems this tractor was bought new in 1972 locally after a good beet year, and stayed at that farm ever since. Never left, till now. How rare is that? I almost feel like I am molesting the holy grail here!!