JD 4450 cab refurbishment

I'm getting ready to install a new cab interior in my JD 4450. A company called Tractor Interior Upholstery, LLC makes a modular Quick kit where you just glue the prefab sections into the cab positions. A Youtube video shows a 8 yr old girl installing the panels. Looks like an easy and simple way to redo the cab, given the cramped spaces. Has anyone used this product and what were your results. I'm sure it costs more but the simplicity is worth it to me. I'd probably have glue everywhere and wrinkles in the fabric doing it the old way. Luckily, my headliner is in great shape so that makes it an easier job.

I glued my cab kit in, removing the seat makes more room.Glue sets very quickly, so
make sure you get it right the first time. Not hard to do at all. Ben

Good topic.
I have always glued mine in, but I can see where those formed kits would be much easier to install, despite the extra cost. In fact, the form fitted kits were just coming out when I did my last cab and I was afraid to take a chance at the time. When using the glue-in upholstry, there are few trouble spot that can make it frustrating because if you stick the foam down in a spot, it is stuck and if you try to move it, you damage the foam or end up with wrinkles. But overall the bottom portion of the kit is really no big deal to glue in.

However, I absolutely dread the posts. Definitely my least favorite part. It is somewhat difficult to get the glue sprayed on the posts without overspray on the windows. I have even used strips of cardboard to help block the overspray. Then trying to get to post material to stick in the right spot (while the glue is tacky) and at the same time getting both the holes line up to the round collars that hold the window latches, and all the while, trying to fold a nice straight corner is next to impossible. I do get better each time but seeing those snap on post covers really impresssed me on how easy they appear to install. No matter how well you think you have the foam glued to the posts, it still wants pull away in places and that is aggrivating. I will def. be trying a formed kit on the next cab I do.

First of all the 50 series had the worse interiors of all the tractors. The 46 and 4840 both have original but my 4250 had to be redone at 10 years old. As for install the old style panels I always dry fit them first and then I use glue that is made for pipe insulation call armurflex (sp). The stuff comes in a pint can and use a brush to apply so not near as messy as a spray can.

Like Newgen said the post are a PITA,,my vote is to clean and paint the post and delete the upholstery on
them,it will make the job more successful..

I really like the kits from Fehr cab Interiors. They have the hard backed kits available and even those posts are easy to do. If you are doing a complete cab, ie; headliner etc, do the posts first, then the headliner and then fender pieces.
The hard backed kits use an adhesive that is applied with a caulking gun and is much easier to control than the spray can stuff. You don't get as light headed either, LOL
The Fehr kits fit better and are more OEM like than other brands I have used.
I am not affiliated with Fehr Cab in any way, just a satisfied customer.

I agree, I think the Fehr parts are cut and shaped better than others I have tried. I tried a K&M kit once, simply because their post kits had the V notches in the corners and the Fehr ones didn't at the time. But the bottom part of that kit was horrible compared to the Fehr. I decided to get a dealer account with Fehr simply because I think their kits are better and their staff is friendly and knowledgable, especially Norma.

Thanks for all the great inputs. I went back to the Fehr website to look at the plastic molded kits and they look very good and easy to install. Prices are very competitive. I'm going to do everything on the bottom, including the console cover, firewall sound deadening material, floor mat, etc. Will definitely remove the power seat and refurbish/clean up the lower unit. Seat covers and arm rests are like new so they won't need replacing as well as all the window seals. Any suggestions on removing the seat are appreciated. I do have the 4450 service manual which I will also review. Main issue with my interior was the delamination and crumbling of the foam backing even though the tractor is always stored in the machine shed. Thanks again for the help.

We get kits out of Northwood Iowa witch is the same company and it already has backing applied.They also sell to JD and there is a price difference.Seat removal is a must and cleaning up surface is the key.If you don't do it right it is better to pay someone that has done several and they are usually not 8 years old.Their product is as good as any.

The foam just disentigrates over time no matter how well they are cared for. Best thing to do is unbolt the seat and also take the rear window latches off (if doing the posts all the window latches have to be removed anyhow). I made a wood prop for the back window to prop it open as far as it will go. You can also take the top bolts out and completely remove the back window if you like. But in my opinion, it is much easier to take the seat out the back window than the door. Just have someone behind the tractor to receive it. Once the seat is out, you will have room to work on the inside. I have a nylon brush attachement for my angle grinder that I use on the remaining bits of glue and foam. It works well and doesn't disturb the paint like a wire brush does. Good prep is the key. Also if you don't like the 50 series brown foam, Fehr can do the upholstry in different materials. I did my 6030 cab in 55 series 2-tone, even though it is a 30 series cab. I think it looks really nice compared to the original material, which would have been the black in this case.