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John deere 4010 leaking hydraulic fluid under steering wheel

R

Ranger518

Member
My John deere 4010 has developed a leak coming from undet the steering wheel a few years ago I put the updated seals under the steering wheel and it worked great for a few years and last year it started leaking again so I replaced the seals again and it still leaks just as bad so I was wondering what my options as everything on the steering works great it just leaks from under the steering wheel.
 
The lower seal is failing, you need to open it up and re-seal and re-calibrate it to get it to stop leaking, I
can do this for you here and bench test it, if you want to ship it to me,, I do a lot of them.
 
(quoted from post at 13:17:04 07/18/16) The lower seal is failing, you need to open it up and re-seal and re-calibrate it to get it to stop leaking, I
can do this for you here and bench test it, if you want to ship it to me,, I do a lot of them.
Click to expand...

What all is involved in removing the steering valve from the tractor how big or hard of a job is it? I know rebuilding and resealing the valve requires special tools which I do not have and would not do myself. Also what would you charge to repair it if I send it to you? Thanks
 
Tim do you still have my 3020 one that I dropped off a long time ago? It looks like I will be in your area the middle of Aug. and would like to pick it up then and maybe drop off some other stuff. Thanks Tom
 
$130 for the o-ring kit, plus $250 for repair and test, they can be a bit ornery to get out, the dash needs to
come up and lines removed,, I "Had" a lot of pictures of all this,, but the last lightning strike killed my
old computer,,so I will need to start saving pictures again,, I am doing one now ..that was sent in from
Pennsylvania.. My mail box is open if you want to mail me..
 
(quoted from post at 16:39:20 07/18/16) $130 for the o-ring kit, plus $250 for repair and test, they can be a bit ornery to get out, the dash needs to
come up and lines removed,, I "Had" a lot of pictures of all this,, but the last lightning strike killed my
old computer,,so I will need to start saving pictures again,, I am doing one now ..that was sent in from
Pennsylvania.. My mail box is open if you want to mail me..
Click to expand...

Ok sounds good I think that is what I am going to do then. I just need to try and get my brake issue figured out that i am having with it forst and when I get time I will pull the stering valve out and send it your way.
 
What's up with your brake issue?? I can bench test the brake valve too....Not trying to drum up business,,
just wanting to help...
 
(quoted from post at 18:34:00 07/18/16) What's up with your brake issue?? I can bench test the brake valve too....Not trying to drum up business,,
just wanting to help...
Click to expand...

Cool i will take all the info and help i can get as i am only 30 years old and most the equipment i have was made way before me and nobody i know knows much about this old stuff. I have a question started already on this form but basically I think I have a high pressure leak in it due to when I push in the clutch I loose all hydraulic in just a few seconds it started about 2 years ago and I have narrowed it down to the brakes because when I cap the feed line going to the brake valve off I can hold down the clutch for a long time with full hydraulic. So I rebuilt the brake valve with all new parts and no change so I bought a used one put it on and same thing. I am pretty sure it is in my brake valve because I can hear hydraulic fluid going in and back out the return lines they also both heat up pretty quick when running and i am pretty sure that they are closed center and are not supost to do that. The breaks do work great with no issues I'm just not sure what would cause this or what i am missing because when I took the valve apart to rebuild it everything looked pretty good.
 
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