Educate me on what to look for in a 4020 to use not to co...

Got a little more farm ground to work and have convinced myself that the ol John Deere 60 wont just be enough tractor so my thoughts are to get a bullet proof 4020. I know nothing about the new generation tractors except that the 4020 is the top dog of the new generation. My thoughts are this 4020, add a 148 loader, 10 foot brush hog. I will be working open land occasionally but not full time. I need to get a 4 bottom plow. The tractor will be used for all sorts of odd jobs such as plowing, loading, and brush cutting. I plan to pull a 12' drill once or twice a year a well. I have located a 64 4020 that's rough looking for 10K, and another 1966 model that is weathered/unpainted but has a new injector pump and fuel pump for about the same price. There is also a 71 side consol with a loader for 15k not too far away. Both the 64 and 66 are synchro trans machines. Don't know whats in the 71 trans? I will probably put under 125 hours a year on the machine. What do I look for when buying one. All my limited experience is with 2 cylinder John Deere's. I don't want to restore a 4020 like I have my 60-at least not right after I buy one. I want one that will hold together for a while. Some told me to get a gas 4020 others say go diesel. Would love to hear from all of you that know 4020's.
 
Ten thousand should buy you a very good field ready 4020 with the hyd. levers on the dash.A latter model side console (1969-1972) will cost more but a very good one can be had for less than $15000.I have an early one that will go in the shop this winter and get a complete overhaul,new wiring and new paint that we will be selling for around $10,000.It will be completly gone thru and look like new as well.The ones you have found seem overpriced to me. The one for $15,000 you can get a 4230 with a cab for that money. I am in southern WI and if you are not in a hurry contact me as mine will be for sale this winter. I have 4 4020's and 6 3020's right now that we use on the farm.Tom
 
I have a gas 4020 and am a fan of them for certain jobs. You may have enough heavy duty work a diesel will likely suit you better. May be really hard to find a gas model anymore. Many got converted to diesels. When I got ours I had to go all over it getting it back into shape. Water pump, hyd. pump rebuild, load and depth seals, rad. repair ,shifter and linkage rebuild. Various oil leaks here and there. I'm betting many need this work done if they are being sold.
I am not a big fan of the power shift models because of the power loss really noticeable in the winter , and the park pawl design is not really safe on hills. The syncro range has a vastly better park lock up and system to get it out of park when bound up on a hill. 148 loaders are good but I really like the 158 ! Way better reach and a little more lift for loading stuff on and off trailers. Power shift does allow for being able to cycle the loader better when stopped and of coarse being able to shift on the go.
 
Much is the same as looking at a two cylinder... oil leaks, coolant in the oil, etc are what they are, no matter the age of the horse. Some things I'd check out: Does the hydraulic oil look relatively new, or is it milky? The block on the early ones will have weep holes on the left side... make sure there is no coolant leaking there. If it is, an overhaul is in your future.

Does the clutch hold? Does the PTO clutch (early syncro) push ahead firmly (good if it does)? Too easy means the clutch is probably done.

Check the power steering. Quickly turn all the way left and all the way right. If the wheels take awhile to follow the steering wheel (especially if done multiple times) it means the power steering will need some work in the future.

It is hard to determine cold weather starting this time of year. But if it wont start first thing on a summertime morning, the engine is tired.

Make sure the syncro shifts into every gear easily. If some or all the gears don't engage without grinding, there are issues inside.

If you look at a powershift, make sure it shifts correctly and that the PTO stops. Fixing the PTO brake on those is expensive.

Look over the wiring harness carefully. Look for worn wires or stuff cobbled together. Is it a 12 volt or a 24 volt?

There's more- but that's a few of the things I'd look at. They are good tractors, but the newest are 44 years old. And lastly, I'd pick a diesel. Search the archives here on 4020 gas to learn why.
 
Thanks for the opinion on the gas vrs diesel. I don't want to get into a situation where it is hard to find parts. Its seems that about 99% of them I have located so far are diesel. I didn't know the gassers were hard to gets parts for? Thanks for the info-that will sway me one way or the other. good to know about the difference in the 148 vrs 158. I do a lot of timber work and I could see putting a grapple on one to help move logs around when needed. My land is a combination of wooded hills and now with this new piece about the only open flat place I have that will be ideal for crops. Hence the need for a real big boy tractor.
 
The late model gassers used a different engine (362) that you can get parts for, but engine rebuild kits are spendy- only from Deere, and I think you have to order all the pieces individually. Parts are more readily available for the earlier one (341).
 
Good to know Tom. I never get a hurry on anything without researching it first, hence the request for information from guys who know the 4020 on here. When you overhaul a 4020, what do you typically do? Engine rings, gaskets, PTO, pumps-hydraulic/water etc. I would be curious. I know some guys I have met do "paint" overhauls. Those are the scariest!
I may be interested since I am not in a hurry-just let me know what you do to the ones you intend to sell. Thanks
 
We had one till we sold the cows . Diesel ,power shift , side console , canopy . Awesome tractor . It was a 72 , spent a lot of time on her .
 
At auction yesterday (Saturday) central Kansas 1970, synchro good rubber, canopy, loader, sold for 10,000. Wouldn't have been afraid to buy it to use. Was a retiring, elderly farmer's only tractor, nice condition. Don't know the hours.
 
This engine will get the head redone by a shop who will replace whatever is needed and the valves will be set to minimum spec so it starts good.The engine will get a Reliance overhaul kit that has new sleeves,piston,piston pins and bushings,rings,main bearings,rod bearings and bolts all gaskets,front and rear engine seal.Oil pump will be checked for wear,injecters will be checked and injection pump checked on a test stand.Camshaft will be checked as well.Clutch will be gone thru with new parts as needed or if lots of wear a new complete pressure plate assembly.New thermostats top and bottom radiater hoses and all other small hoses replaced. I also send the starters to the shop and when rewiring add a new alternater.Also I have started using new head bolts as well.Water pump will be checked and replaced if any wobble or looseness.The rest of the tractor will be gone over as well.Rebuild seat assembly and new cushions go over shift linkage and try to find and fix all leaks.
 
Overhaul should include sleeves, pistons, rods, mains, inspect crank, new dampener/front pulley, new valve seats and check valve condition and to tight side of specs, injectors gone through or reman, water pump. But if you buy one that starts good cold and runs out clean you probably have thousands of hours left. Good to give them a good workout every so often
 
we had a sale this spring.to give an example of price.i know the tractor I post about is too big but.its a 5000 hour clean fully equipped 4640. almost new rear tires factory duals ps.cold ac very nice dependable tractor .it went for $14500.if I was better off it woulda followed me home.i put many hours on that tractor .but like said above prices they wanted are a bit high seems to me.the lady is 88 and she had all she could handle so she rented the farms out
 
I would stay away from late model 4020's. The price is high because they are VERY collectable. I have a 1966 4020D. Has a NH 617 disc mower attached and works great! Has its issues but she's not a show tractor. Suits my needs wonderfully.
 

I think $10,000 is too high for a 64-68 4020 especially if it still has a 24 volt electrical system. If it were my decision I'd step up to a later model 30 series with a 16 speed trans,wet clutches & SGB(cab with ac).

When inspecting used tractor look at clutch/brake pedals,drawbar hole & 3pt draft link balls for ""excessive wear"".
 
Lots of good advice. Bout all I can add is make sure any tractor you're looking at didn't spend it's life on a dairy farm. Never seen one from a dairy that wasn't completely worn out a couple of times over.
 

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