No Oil Pressure.

hapec12

New User
Hello. I'm new here.
Just bought a 1948 B model. Thought the oil pressure gauge was stuck, BUT no oil pressure to the gauge. Now what?? Is there a pressure relief spring, or something I can check? Took crank inspection cover off, and am getting splash lube.
What to do now??
Thank You.
 
Could be the coupler from the cam to the oil pump that is broke. If it got turned over with a little water in it when it was cold, that would break it. You have to drop the
oil pump to replace it.
 
I just bought it yesterday. When I loaded it, it had 20 PSI,(I thought).The seller didn't comment on pressure, and I didn't ask. Come to find out, the gauge is stuck at 20 PSI. I took line off at block, and nothing.
 
Take off the top cover on the crank case and you will see the coupling right below the camshaft. You will need to drop the oil pump to get a new coupling on. It is next to the oil filter. Ron Mn
 
No need to drop the oil pump just remove the four 3/8 bolts that hold the cap on below the gears. Than the shaft will drop down and you replace the coupler
 
If you run it with the oil pressure gauge removed, is there any flow at all out the line that goes to the gauge. As that line normally flows no oil, just transfers pressure, it could possibly be blocked.
 
If your coupler is not broken there is an oil pressure adjustment on the outside below the belt pulley area. Should have a long cap nut. Remove the cap nut and try turning the screw in. I had one once the spring in that assembly that adjusts the pressure was shot. You can unbolt and remove the pressure regulator to replace that spring if needed.
 
I will speculate that the lower cavity of the case is totally sludged up and oil may not be getting to the pump gears. If I were you I'd take the top cover off ....removed the lower drain plug get a high pressure washer with stiff detergent and blow all the crap out....then clean up with diesel fuel and check the coupler...remove the lower gear and clean....then see what you have....
 
(quoted from post at 05:47:56 06/22/16) If your coupler is not broken there is an oil pressure adjustment on the outside below the belt pulley area. Should have a long cap nut. Remove the cap nut and try turning the screw in. I had one once the spring in that assembly that adjusts the pressure was shot. You can unbolt and remove the pressure regulator to replace that spring if needed.
I cleaned the inner block (Not too bad inside), put new filter on and 5W20 oil to loosen things up.
The coupling was not broken. I dropped the 4 bolts and the pump gears for inspection. They looked fine. Reinstalled things and ran it for a while. No oil pressure on New gauge. Blew into oil pressure line- no blockage.
Adjusted pressure relief spring- no difference. Took pressure relief housing off. Started engine. LOW pressure- LOW volume.
I am Bewildered. HELP PLEASE.
 
Hi If nothing you have checked from what others have said is wrong, It could be the crank bearings and oil pump are worn out, and it needs a rebuild.
Over the last 30 years messing with old tractors I have come across a fair few different brands like this. Some oil pumps "look" ok but when you
get them apart and measure specs they are junk. I have seen old Fordsons that won't move a known gauge at all they were so worn out.

I'm not a Deere fan at all and only work on slightly newer JD 4 or 6 cyl diesels the odd time in my shop. what does this tractor have for an oil
filter, maybe check in there to see if it has flakes or small particals of bearing metal in it, also what was in the block when you cleaned it. If you
got any amount of metal particles in there you need to look at crank bearings.
To be honest if it was mine that would be the next step to check the crank bearings out and measure the oil pump against specs.
Maybe the guy sold you a tractor that he knew the motors needing a rebuild, It Wouldn't be the first time thats happened on the forum.
 
From where you are now, I also speculate that the mains are severely worn. The main lines from the pump go to the mains and then is fed through the crank to the rods. I suppose those could be badly worn. Did you check all the lines coming from the pump? Suppose there could be a breakage but never really seen that happen. The bushings in the pump could be also worn where the pressure cannot build. Don't know how tractor was represented but looks like you got the short end.
 

I would change that light oil to a HD 30 Wt and see if the pressure improves..if it does...KEEP using that oil...
 
Those tractors dont run on much oil pressure anyways. Usually it is only 3-5 psi or as much as 10 psi. Yes you would be able to stop the flow with your finger. I believe from testing with my finger I had found the human body can stop pressure to 80 psi. So the finger test isnt a reliable test.
 
(quoted from post at 20:29:48 06/22/16) From where you are now, I also speculate that the mains are severely worn. The main lines from the pump go to the mains and then is fed through the crank to the rods. I suppose those could be badly worn. Did you check all the lines coming from the pump? Suppose there could be a breakage but never really seen that happen. The bushings in the pump could be also worn where the pressure cannot build. Don't know how tractor was represented but looks like you got the short end.
I didn't see any cracked lines. I will loosen the main line to see if I'm getting flow. How about a spun rod bearing? That would stop the flow. Can I take the three lines off of the pump top, and drop the pump out with screen?
 
That light oil was only put in to help loosen the light sludge buildup. I've already drained it, and have 10W-40 to put in.
 
(quoted from post at 09:56:38 06/23/16)
(quoted from post at 20:29:48 06/22/16) From where you are now, I also speculate that the mains are severely worn. The main lines from the pump go to the mains and then is fed through the crank to the rods. I suppose those could be badly worn. Did you check all the lines coming from the pump? Suppose there could be a breakage but never really seen that happen. The bushings in the pump could be also worn where the pressure cannot build. Don't know how tractor was represented but looks like you got the short end.
I didn't see any cracked lines. I will loosen the main line to see if I'm getting flow. How about a spun rod bearing? That would stop the flow. Can I take the three lines off of the pump top, and drop the pump out with screen?

An experimentation with straight 60wt oil will verify if excessive clearances are the problem.
I would be budgeting for crank work, new mains and a set of 50 rods with insert bearings.
 
Look at your oil filter head as the casting could be cracked or filter can crushed from over tightening the filter cap. Those pumps rarely ever have problems flowing oil even if the bearings are shot. On rare case the camshaft and or oil pump drive could have broken teeth this would cause it not to work. Double check the pump shaft coupling is good too.
 
Yes the pump can be taken entirely out the bottom and this is the best way to ensure that the screen is completely clean. I suspect a massive oil leak and am in agreement with Mike M about the volume on these pumps, it's a massive amount compared to others, but it needs to be as it's turning quite slow at the same time. Your oil pump drive shaft should have a small hole drilled thru it where oil for the rocker arm shaft is metered. If they did some machining here to increase flow to the rockers, this might be where your oil is getting away. Be sure the driven gear can't spin on the shaft too. If a drive key fell out of that gear this would cause all these problems very easily - I don't remember if they even have one though.
 
(quoted from post at 10:33:14 06/23/16) Look at your oil filter head as the casting could be cracked or filter can crushed from over tightening the filter cap. Those pumps rarely ever have problems flowing oil even if the bearings are shot. On rare case the camshaft and or oil pump drive could have broken teeth this would cause it not to work. Double check the pump shaft coupling is good too.
Mike M - You are the Winner. The top of the filter housing is cracked. My neighbor came over this morning, and asked me if I had looked there.Negative, I said. And there it was a. A large crack where the filter shaft hooks to the top casting. Someone had Over Tightened the filter cap.
Also, inside of the cover is a spring loaded check valve. Junk.
Now to find a new one.
I will post results of this project. Thank You One and All for the thoughtful knowledge, and comments.
 
I had some thoughts on that but the one I had had broken the center out when over tightened. I think there are some inside bolts holding in the cast iron cup and there are lines to the top accessible inside the cavity.
 

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