Eric in KY
Member
Well, we changed the compressor, the expansion valve and the dryer and the high pressure switch is still kicking the AC out. We can bypass the switch but the high side line gets too hot to touch. Any suggestions?
- Thread starter Eric in KY
- Start date
RogerinIowa
Member
Normal for high side to be HOT!
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Ditto what Roger stated.
If refrigerant pressures are correct & cond,rad & evap plus cab filter is clean I'll guess faulty high pressure switch is the problem
Eric in KY
Member
Jim, everything is clean. Filters, condensers, evap above cab, screens, everything is changed or cleaned every April. I'll change out the high pressure switch but that return line is so hot you can't even touch it much less than hold on to it. And that was last night in 70 degree outside temp. I don't know that much about it but I don't see any way to check the high pressure side with the gauges. We're doing everything with just the low pressure side hook up.
Eric in KY
Member
Dave, the AC is working only if we bypass the hp switch. I don't see any way to check the high pressure. There's no port to hook the gauge.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Doesn't your tractors AC lines have 2 male quick coupler tips similar to where plastic cover(parts key 2B) attaches? I know for sure my 4255 has 2 male tips.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Clarification if your tractor hasn't been converted to R134A it won't have male qtips but it will still have 2(two) ports for checking both low & high pressures
Eric in KY
Member
There is no port on the high pressure side, only on the low side.
When was the last time the AC condenser AND the radiator were removed and cleaned 100%?
As in when you look through the core tubes/fins at light you can see they are clean over their whole area.
Unless it's really HOT right now where you're at, there's no reason for high condensing pressure and HEAT leaving the condenser.
Also, I ASSUME it's been properly evacuated before being charged to eliminated non-condensable gases?
As in when you look through the core tubes/fins at light you can see they are clean over their whole area.
Unless it's really HOT right now where you're at, there's no reason for high condensing pressure and HEAT leaving the condenser.
Also, I ASSUME it's been properly evacuated before being charged to eliminated non-condensable gases?
Eric in KY
Member
Radiator and condenser taken to town 8/3/13, cleaned and pressure checked. JD coolant re-added then. Radiator flushed and changed to new JD coolant again on 4/25/16. Light does shine thru whole condenser area. Vacuumed for 1 hr and system pressure check was good.
Lee B
Member
OK, what was the low side pressure? How about you use an IR gun on the hot side at one inch away and say how hot is hot? It's possible your high side port is on the condenser or liquid separator. Some of those separators have a sight glass although they usually need cleaning in the worst way. If so, what do you see there? Can you touch the high side after it's been cooled by the engine fan?
How many cans of what freon? Add any oil? How much? Good air flow in the cab? What temp is it running when it does run? Ever use stop leak on this system?
How many cans of what freon? Add any oil? How much? Good air flow in the cab? What temp is it running when it does run? Ever use stop leak on this system?
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Eric in KY
Does your tractor have a compressor similar to photo of my 4255 compressor? JDparts shows both tractor ac components are similar. If so it should have 2 connections similar to the ones with a red cap & blue cap
Eric in KY
Member
Low side around 40. Don't have an IR gun but will ask around. No high side port on lines or condenser. Compressor came with 6.4 oz of oil in it. We added 1 1/2 ozs to new dryer and then let system draw another 11/2 ozs from bottle thru low pressure hose after vacuum completed and pressure had held. Didn't use small cans, we had 50 lb tank on electronic scale and put 3.4 lbs in system. Good air flow in cab. Temp reads 54 degrees out of vents. Used stop leak previously on R12 system before converting to 134.
Thanks.
Eric in KY
Member
(quoted from post at 18:49:48 06/08/16)
Eric in KY
Does your tractor have a compressor similar to photo of my 4255 compressor? JDparts shows both tractor ac components are similar. If so it should have 2 connections similar to the ones with a red cap & blue cap
Jim, mine compressor looks the same except where your red cap is on the high side, mine has electrical fitting on it with wiring connecting to switch that illuminates in cab. That's what we're bypassing right now. I took a pic but couldn't figure out how to post it.
Thanks.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
If it was my tractor I'd put a fitting to attach high pressure hose when red cap is located. Trying to service AC refrigerant without having high pressure reading is similar to driving at night without the aid of headlights.
Eric in KY
Member
We can do that but that means doing away with the sensor, which probably won't hurt anything.
Thanks.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
The high pressure switch(parts key 7) on my tractor is up by expansion valve in the top of cab. If your tractors serial number is above 009608- it should be the same as mine.
Eric in KY
Member
Jim, not up there. Serial #2813.
Eric in KY
Member
Jim, here's a picture of my compressor, I hope.
Lee B
Member
Never use stop leak in an A/C system, first it doesn't work, second it may cost you an entire system including every hose. Spill some water on the high side, does it boil instantly or merely waft away in a real hurry? Why do you need a light to come on in the cab when the A/C is on? Is that the purpose of the 'high side' switch?
Your picture is showing in classic view or when you attempt to answer in modern view only, what is the nature of the glomp of wiring that this switch connection goes to? Seems to be an add on and maybe they didn't know what they were doing there? I suspect that this isn't a real high side safety switch but something else cobbled into the wiring. Off to do some research.
Your picture is showing in classic view or when you attempt to answer in modern view only, what is the nature of the glomp of wiring that this switch connection goes to? Seems to be an add on and maybe they didn't know what they were doing there? I suspect that this isn't a real high side safety switch but something else cobbled into the wiring. Off to do some research.
Lee B
Member
Your tractor has both an A/C timer replacement kit and thermal fuse replacement kit for it. I believe someone has cobbled the hi side pressure to be in this location because he was replacing the thermal fuse and didn't want to fund the entire process and went without the hose offered. I also believe the high temps at this location will pooch any switch placed here given enough time. RE24307 is the high pressure switch, generic JD house $65, tractor joe $35, I would move it if at all possible to the cool side of the high side. Please do as suggested and re-install a high side pressure port where this switch is at right now. Couldn't agree more, it is like driving at night without headlights to not have a high side gauge reading. You can test your hi side pressure switch using shop air, my bet is it's ruined by the heat and kicking off way too soon - they are only supposed to kick off in a drastic emergency at plus 200 PSI range. Plus 250 even better.
40 PSI for low side is a bit much in my opinion only, I would have stopped filling at 30. The cab air flow should be noticeably cooler at 30 PSI than at 40, but if your happy there, I don't mind at all.
40 PSI for low side is a bit much in my opinion only, I would have stopped filling at 30. The cab air flow should be noticeably cooler at 30 PSI than at 40, but if your happy there, I don't mind at all.
Eric in KY
Member
Lee, I don't really know what that wiring is connected to the high side. My point was when we separated the connection and bypass it, the compressor would stay on. Otherwise, with the wiring connected, it would make the high pressure light inside the cab come on and the compressor would kick out. There's also a light in the cab for the low side, if the freon gets too low. I'll share your information with my more mechanical buddy and see if we can get it fixed. Thanks for the help!!
cannonball
Member
too much oil
cannonball
Member
Lee B
Member
You're welcome, hope you get it too. I see your picture on page two, doh! I was not aware that they had either a high or low pressure fault light system in there so that explains that part for me anyway. Still suspecting the high pressure switch you have now is tripping at normal operating pressures because it has been ruined by the heat there, you guys should confirm it's defective tripping point somehow first, small battery powered air compressors will go that high if you defeat their safety system. $10 harbor freight.
Eric
I believe you have to much oil in the system.Did you drain the compressor to see what was in it from the start.They normally come with oil in them,but you can not be sure how much.I always drain my units then reinstall the right amount.This gives me a starting point.I have never put oil in the drier,oil will there get from the compressor.At 70 degrees the air coming out of the vents should be 38to 43 degree.You need to find out what the high side is.
I believe you have to much oil in the system.Did you drain the compressor to see what was in it from the start.They normally come with oil in them,but you can not be sure how much.I always drain my units then reinstall the right amount.This gives me a starting point.I have never put oil in the drier,oil will there get from the compressor.At 70 degrees the air coming out of the vents should be 38to 43 degree.You need to find out what the high side is.
On these models I have been by-passing the timer switch,,they are pricey and 4440's ran well with out them,, just more electronic crapp added to the mix,, I unplug the Yellow wire off the cold switch, run a new wire from that terminal to the low pressure switch on the left rear corner of the cab roof, through that switch and down the left front post to the compressor, this gives you low pressure protection, and I know it does away with High pressure protection but in my area that has never given a problem, this works out well,,and go on to the field..
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Evidently JD engineers must have decided the AC comp clutch timers weren't one of their "brightest ideas" as only early model 50 series tractors had the contraptions.
Eric in KY
Member
Hi guys,
Right now we're bypassing the high switch and AC is cooling great. We haven't had time to get back on it yet as we're trying to catch up with all the hay cutting and baling. I appreciate the advice and I will report back when we work on it again earlier next week. Maybe I made a mistake trying to replace the AC ourselves but last time I took another tractor to my dealer for AC replacement, it cost me around $1200 and that was 3 years ago. I was just trying to save some $$$.
Thanks guys!!!
Eric in KY
Member
Sounds like a good idea. Let me know that part # when you get time. Thanks.
Eric in KY
Member
Tim, that's what we're doing temporarily is bypassing the switch. I don't really know but I kinda like the other poster's response about adding the tee fitting. What do you think?
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
'm not Tim but I think adding tee to high pressure test port to allow for connecting gauge & high pressure switch is a great idea.
Eric in KY
Member
Jim, I thought so too. Just need a part #. The parts guy here at JD couldn't find it.
Thanks.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Maybe grwrench will post the part number or try emailing him if his email box is open
Lee B
Member
Not Tim, but the idea is remove it from the heat. Nice to do that AND have a high pressure port too, but the HEAT is the killer here. You don't address this part and you be doing this all over again and again and again. I would look into using the roof mounted hose as an addon as that is where you have two ports to use for what ever you want. 732 - Evaporator and Rear Lines (4050 -005478; 4250 -009607; 4450 -019675) does this:AR83521 Hose SUB RE55554
RE55554 is the two fitting hose in the roof (1B in Tx Jim's first illustration posted), so it does fit and it does move the high pressure switch away from the intense heat. 2B in another illustration posted is for the suction line and would not work, found one on FleaBay for 40 too, but I was having a senior moment when I thought it might work at that point. Looks like 75 dollar range is what they want for RE55554, it is what it is.
The tee would be cheap, but it's no real fix at all - all it does is just give you a pressure port that you aren't even using right now. When I fix some thing I like to fix the part that is broke.
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