Value Of Professionally Restored JD 530

Looking for experienced opinions on what a JD 530 collector level restored tractor will bring. At the present I do not intend to put flat fenders on this 530 as getting on and off is very tight. However, if its worth the trouble I may consider. It is a 1959 tricycle (2 front tires). About 9 years ago I had a fully restored 730 and the fenders really made things tight. I know there where more 630's and 730's made so a 530 is harder to find and should be worth more. I had this tractor since 2009 and left it sit till now so I've been kinda out of the loop since then. Over the past few years though I've noticed there are less JD 2 cylinder's up for sale. Does that mean they are becoming worth more or is the terrible economy keeping them from selling and the prices down. Again if you have experience with the value of a professionally restored 530 I would appreciate your input....Charles
 
There are so many unanswered questions and a couple of pictures would help a geat deal. Original hours, history of the tractor, receipts of work done, how many hydraulic valves, rollamatic, generator or altenator, gas or LP, location, new tires, 3 point hitch, Quick Coupler, quality of paint job, what brand paint and was a hardener used????? Many collectors will shy away from a tractor without good flat top fenders. do the lights work, Was it ever certified "Expo Quality?" A really good 530 will bring well over $10,000 and how much over will depend how good it is. Most all professional restorers have reputations, some beter than others.
 
Thanks Tom for your response. It is gas, does have a 3 point hitch, all tires in very decent shape. has quick coupler and located in York, PA. It is not painted yet but the paint is car quality and will have hardener. The 1/2 gallons of green and yellow paint plus hardener cost me almost $500.00 from a reputable paint supply as recommended from the guy who will paint. This tractor had a mediocre restore job a few years before I bought it.
 
If you really want to get top dollar for it new tires are a must along with the flat top fenders and weights both front and rear and be sure you get all the leaks out of it before thinking about painting. A proper working power steering, any abnormal noise in the transmission, check and make sure the lower 3pt arms will telescope, these sometimes have a tendency to freeze up. Smooth action clutch and brakes are just a few of the other things to be sure to address. Make sure the man who is doing the painting is familiar with the way they came out of the factory. Black rear axles, both dash plates are black, new gauges, new generator tag, wireing harness and all the other little things that add up to the final details. New hydraulic hoses to the quick couplers also add to the detail. I will send you a couple of pictures that I took a year or two ago that might help.
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BEFORE you even think of applying the "Finish Coats", just go ahead and spray your "Classic Green" (2 coats) without any Hardener ( this IS after you have Primered several times, with wet-sanding between each application)..

NOW, Wet-Sand that back down to the Base Coat, to get all the imperfections out of it..( Use 220 to 400 Wet-Sanding Sheets WITH Plenty of cold water..

When you feel it is as "Perfect" as you want...Go ahead and shoot the real final coats ( with Hardener)..

Remember, the Last coat should be reduced another 25% to give it that "WET" finish...

WEAR a Proper Mask when using Hardener...

Ron..
 
It sounds like you are saying professionally painted, but not "restored", that will not be worth much more than unpainted.
 

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