Drilling out the ignition switch plate rivits?

ibbuckshot

New User
I have been trying to find out how you guys might go about re-riveting the old mod John Deere ignition switch plates back onto the face of the casting. When I bought my 1952 M I was given the plate to be re mounted. I think when the plate was removed for painting the four rivets must have been broken off. In my attempt to drill the remaining part of the rivets out it felt like I was drilling against a broken bit or easy-out. Any ideas ? Thanks for your help.
 
Are the holes open on the back side ? If so you can drive them out from the backside. Those are likely drive screws like used on the serial plates on the other models too. VERY HARD metal and have ridges on them to act like a screw when driven in.
 
I was looking at the back side while rewiring the ammeter but was not able to see any holes. I guess I should have looked more closely. I now have everything back together again. So, you think I might be able to use a punch to drive the rivets back out? What is the chance of cracking the casting while attempting to drive the old rivets back out if found ? I might be able to place the ignition switch plate over the ignition switch hole from the inside in order to better locate the rivets.
 
That is a good idea of putting the plate on the inside. If the holes don't go thru then you would have a good chance to drill from the back and hit them. Mat not be room to drill ? You could try drilling them from the outside with a carbide bit. Masonry bits are cheap and easy to find and I have used them on other projects with success.
 
Woulden't swear to it but I seem to remember seeing the holes on the backside while changing the pipes in my dash last summer. There was a lot of clean up going on so I could paint it all. Take out the battery and tray and you should be able to see them. May have to drop the cut out for the lower two. Deere still carries the rivets.
 
I will try the reverse ignition panel idea but first try to find a carbide bit, good idea. I had forgotten to try the carbide. I have used them before - back in the day. Thanks again.
 
I had a similar problem on my JD L/Hercules. The rivets are on the right rear axle housing. Since I could not get at the back sides, I went to the local hardware store and bought the smallest nail puller I could find(looks like the letter "L"- bottom foot about 1 inch long and the long arm is about 5 inches long) and carefully reground the bottom of the small fork so it was quite thin and with a flatter angle. Then, carefully I tapped it under the rivet head until it was all the way in and then slowly tapped the long end and little by little I was able to remove the driven in rivets with no trouble. This same tool is also a "craftsman p/n 37353"
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top