I need some help with my John Deere MT governor anjustment

ibbuckshot

New User
Greeting folks,
I have been working on a recently acquired 1952 John Deere MT. One of the goals was to change over from 6 volt Pos to 12 volt neg ground. With that done and working well I checked the timing, cleaned and reset the carb, points and plugs. Now, when starting it up I can not get it to rev up. The governor kicks in just after throwing the throttle open bringing the rpms back down to about 700 = OR -. I have ordered the IT repair / shop manual but will not it for a week or two. Can any of you folks talk me through a governor adjustment ? ? ? There is another question. What is the proper engine idle rpm speed for the M engine. Thanks for your help.
Have fun,
buckshot
 
1650 is fast idle. Can't remember low off the top of my head. How did you set the timing? The carb adjustment rod is 1 & 1/2 rounds short and the governor rod is 1 & 1/2 rounds long. Do make sure the cotter pins aren't binding. Sounds like you might have the throttle shaft or plate in backwards. The gov and carb rod will be off a little most everytime you remove the carb and put it back but not that much.
 
M-MAN, Thanks for your reply. I know the top end is 1650 but could not find any info on the idle. I wonder why they call it a fast "idle"? The timing was set by bringing the "spark" timing mark up into the window and pulling the dist cap off and adjusting the points to just opening. After doing this I knew what to look for. I hooked up my timing light to insure that I was getting the spark mark to align with the mark on the casting using # 1 plug wire. I do not understand what you mean when you say the carb adj rod is 1 & 1/2 "rounds short"? and the governor rod is 1& 1/2 "rounds long" ??? The only rod that has a cotter pin is on the rod end that is hooked onto the short arm that is attached to the throttle shaft between the side of the carb and the block. Should I lengthen or shorten this rod between the governor and carb? On another subject,I went to mount the ignition switch plate and found that all four holes have parts of the old pins broken off in the holes. I am going to try to drill them out in order to use screws or tap the holes in order to use some small machine screws to mount the plate. Have you ever experienced having to repair these mounting holes ?
 
Fast idle is the free running high speed. Which is higher As opposed to a load speed which is where it should end up at a rated load after the engine pulls down a bit. Slow idle on most of these "just guessing as my books are not here" is 500 rpm.
For non running timing you should use the D/C mark as the spark mark is for running timing at fast idle with full advance.
 
Ok, That helps. I can go back and set it up using the D C mark and at 500 rpm's. What about raising the rpm on the high side? How can I adjust the governor operating linkage to get the rpm's up to 1650 ?
 
"<font color="#6699ff">[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]Can any of you folks talk me through a governor adjustment ? ? ?[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]</font>"

Reviewed the [b:654c4848f0]John Deere Model ?M? Tractors Service Manual SM2001[/b:654c4848f0] in the [b:654c4848f0]Engine[/b:654c4848f0] section in the [b:654c4848f0]Group 35 Governor[/b:654c4848f0] information under the [b:654c4848f0]Install and Adjust Governor Linkage[/b:654c4848f0] topic on pages 60-35-4 and 60-35-5.

Take a look at the diagram below.

a225034.jpg" width="650"


Note the hex jam nut (Key 8) and set screw (Key 9).

?[i:654c4848f0]Install governor screw and lock nut into fan bracket. Adjust stop screw until there is approximately 3/8-inch of it above lock nut. Do not tighten lock nut.[/i:654c4848f0]?

Take a look at the diagram below.

a225035.jpg" width="650"




Note the speed control lever (Key 1), governor control rod (Key 6), and bracket (Key 12).

?[i:654c4848f0]Pull throttle control rod lever as far downward as possible, that is, until throw on front end of throttle control rod is against stop on throttle rod front bracket.[/i:654c4848f0]?

Note the plain washers (Key 5), governor control rod (Key 15), spring (Key 14), and spring anchor (Key 13).

?[i:654c4848f0]Slip flat washer over front end of throttle control rod, and slip throttle-control-rod-to-governor linkage into place on rod. Install other flat washer, and finally place coil spring into position between throttle control rod and spring anchor pin. Be sure spring is seated in grooves provided for it.[/i:654c4848f0]?

Note the ball joint (Key 18) and governor-to-carburetor connecting rod (Key 19).

Take a look at the diagram below.

a225036.jpg" width="650"


Note the lever and shaft assembly (Key 2).

?[i:654c4848f0]Insert swivel joint of governor-to-carburetor linkage into governor operating shaft lever from outside. Tighten nut and lock washer securely. Move throttle control rod lever to full open position (throttle control lever on instrument panel as far up as possible).[/i:654c4848f0]"

Take a look at the diagram below.

a225037.jpg" width="650"


Note the throttle shaft (Key 8).

?[i:654c4848f0]Move the carburetor throttle fly to full open position (carburetor throttle fly arm as far forward as possible). Adjust rod of governor-to-carburetor linkage until it will fit in carburetor throttle fly assembly arm. Make this adjustment by turning rod of governor-to-carburetor linkage in or out of swivel joint. When linkage is of such length that it will just slip into carburetor throttle fly arm, without moving either the arm or governor lever, [b:654c4848f0]turn rod into swivel joint two complete turns[/b:654c4848f0], or until proper governor action is obtained. Tighten lock nut. Slip free end of rod into carburetor throttle fly arm and insert cotter key.[/i:654c4848f0]?

Note the yoke (Key 25) in the THROTTLE, CHOKE, AND STARTER CONTROLS diagram.

Note the governor lever (Key 3) in the GOVERNOR diagram.

?[i:654c4848f0]Disconnect throttle-control-rod-to-governor linkage yoke from governor lever, and move throttle control lever down as far down as possible.

Push governor lever as far down as possible. Turn adjustable yoke on throttle-control-rod-to-governor linkage until holes in yoke line up with hole in governor lever. [b:654c4848f0]Then unscrew yoke two complete turns[/b:654c4848f0]. This insures that throttle is tight against stop pin when throttle control rod is against stop on throttle control rod front bracket. Tighten lock nut. Insert pin and cotter key to attach yoke to governor lever.[/i:654c4848f0]?

Hope this helps.
 
Isn't there a stop screw that goes against the governor lever ?
This is where even an I & T manual comes in handy as this info is in there.
 
Yes, there is, what I think, is a stop screw. this is the first John Deere I have ever owned or worked on. I did operate a number of tractors back in the day when my parents owned a farm in Pennsylvania. At that time my father was the one who worked on or adjusted the equipment. I was the one who was the tool runner / tractor operator. And, yes I guess the IT manual would be a good way to find the needed information..... As I mentioned in my first post, I don't have the manual and that it has been ordered and shipped. So, until I get the manual I thought I could get on the site and ask for some direction and help from those with more experience then I. One thing I did find out is that in order to see most of the working parts and linkages of the governor I had to remove the air cleaner completely.
 
I want to apologize to all for not seeing the post by James Howell. I am new to the site and am not use to the format I also want to thank everyone for their help and information. I can now try to got the adjustment made. I am looking forward to getting the manual and becoming a bit more intelligent. Thanks again.
 
One more thing. I have been trying to find out how to set the low and high idle of 1650. A friend of mine came down and used his Snap On timing light to set the low idle of 500 rpm using the tack that was part of the electronics within the timing light. When we tried to move to the high idle setting the timing light would not function and we were unable to make the adjustment. What do you guys use to check the RPM on these two cylinder engines ??? Thanks for your help
 
I didn't see it either until after I posted and then went back and seen James GREAT pictures !
And to answer the question up top I use a hand held Stewart warner dial gauge with an extension and go in from the front to the crank pulley. A more modern hand held that picks up on a magnetic or reflective ? strip might be better ? Harbor Freight sells them IIRC.
 
Thank you folks, I will be off to Harbor Freight (or what I refer to as the "chinese store")to see if anyone there can point me to the RPM dial gauge. I have found yet another problem.........I was given the ignition switch panel with the vin# when I bought the tractor. I wanted to remount the ignition switch panel to the dash which uses the four pins to hold it in place. What I found is that someone must have tried to pull the pins out and broke them off. When I tried to drill them out it did not work. Two of my new bits would not touch the broken pins. It was like trying to drill against a broken bit. What is the secret of cleaning up the holes to re-mount the ignition switch panel????? Thanks Y'all.
 
Pretty sure you can't set either on a two cylinder with that light but I've been wrong before. You can buy a cheap meter with tape strips for the pulley to check the rpm on ebay for about ten tucks. It's what I have now. A precision mechanical contact unit is expensive and the only safe place to put it is the pto shaft. There's some calculating that go's along with it.
 

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