2130 stripped pto gears?

Our JD2130 came with a 21 spline PTO shaft. In order to protect the topper from over-revving we got a AT29707 6 spline 540rpm stubshaft - fitted it - only to find NO DRIVE!!!
It would appear that something has stripped between the gear on the end of the main driveshaft, the double gear on the idler shaft, and the last gear which rides on the 540 rpm stub shaft. - Is this common? - and if so which bit is most likely to have broken? - While it looks easy to remove the quill complete with stubshaft it looks much more involved replacing the main shaft plus gear that comes off the clutch.
Any advice welcome.

Without my having a Tech manual for 2130 it's difficult for me to determine your problem. Did stub shaft go in far enough for snap ring to fit in it's groove. Sometimes when changing stub shafts it can be a little difficult to get splines to slide into drive gear. If something is stripped I think tractor will require a split between clutch and trans housing.

Does the pto still work with the 21 spline ? Then it sounds like the problem is in the 2 speed part at the back of tractor . Maybe a loose gear on the countershaft .

The 21 spline stubby still works fine - and the 6 spline stubby engages OK - I can push round the gear on the quill with my fingures so there is something missing or stripped between that and the end of the shaft that comes from the pto clutch - it can only be the final gear, the double gear on the countershaft, or the gear on the end of the clutch output shaft. All these can be got at by taking the rear quill off but to get at the output shaft you need to take the rock shaft cover off to hold in place a splined connector (it says in the manual) I guess I will drop the quill off and take a look. I was asking here to see if this is a known breakage and which bits are likely to have broken - Always good to hear from the wise ones!!!!!

IIRC both the 540 & 1000 stub shafts spline into quill then each shaft must spline into corresponding drive gear. Parts schematic shows a inner race on the end of the 540 shaft. I wonder if the R38219 thrust washer somehow is keeping 540 shaft from engaging drive gear?

T30798 GEAR,DRIVE REAR /540 RPM/ POWER
JD10282 CYLINDRICAL ROLLER BEARING

This method should be approached with much "CAUTION".
When my 4255 is contrary to insert the stub shaft I apply tension to end of pto shaft with a 2x4 while I have someone in seat momentarily engage pto.

OK - I got up to my Son"s place today and drained off the oil and removed the rear quill to see what was what. Surprise surprise! no countershaft or any of the components on it. That"s the bad news. But no sign of damage on any of the rest - although one thrust washer (r38219) might be missing. So my guess is someone robbed the double gear plus bearings , countershaft etc from this tractor. If I can pickup the parts from a breaker it"s all easily repairable.

Back to my original question however - is this double gear on he countershaft a part that frequently fails - come on wise ones - let"s hear from you - I"m a greenhorn learning the Marque

OK - no response to my last question from this forum, so for the benefit of others here's what I have learnt elsewhere.
It's apparently not unusual to find the 540rpm geartrain bearings worn out if for instance the tractor has done extensive duty on relatively high load ops like running a slurry pump. In my case when I pulled the mainshaft I could see that the gear on it was badly bruised from running on a damaged gear. I got a good double gear, Countershaft, bearings etc from a local UK breaker (parter out to you in the US) I filed off the bruises on the mainshaft gear and turned up a thicker endfloat washer to compenate for the wear on the transmission casing. This gave me a nice quiet geartrain so that's all the parts I'm spending out on. Incidentally - the manual I use said to pull the mainshaft you should remove the rockshaft cover and stop the splined connector dropping off with a long thin screwdriver when you pull the shaft. The manual also says to remove the rockshaft first remove the cab!!!!!!!!!!!!!! - My local breaker advised me that if I pull the shaft a) the spacer might not fall off. b) if it does it just sits on a tin plate and you can pick it up from the back with a long thin rod with a little z-bend on the end and with another rod push it back on. I did this with the aid of a maglite no problem (although it took about 20 minutes trying before it slid on - keyhole surgery!!!) Much quicker than the book method.
Hope this helps others

I am having same issue, I bought a new PTO shaft and when I installed it the PTO oil seal was leaking. I removed the shaft again and when I did the PTO connector fell off. The problem is getting in that small round hole and reaching the connector!!!! I am getting my daughter (12) to help me since her arm is smaller to reach in there with magnet, but she says she don't feel it? Were you able to pull it completely out of PTA case and install it on shaft or did you maneuver it back on internal shaft. It is so aggravating!! Also have you had trouble with PTO oil seal not sealing properly? If so how did you fix it?



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