Broken wedge and jack bolts on 4620

fdt860

Well-known Member
The previous owner broke the wedge on the dual, trying to remove the wheel for shipping, and the other side of the wedge is stripped out.

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I tried to put a "spacer" between the only wedge remaining bolt and the inner wheel, then loosen the screw: No success.

Finally, I drilled and tapped the other wedge. It is hard material on the surface, not hard to drill, but I could only tap 5/8 after I drilled to 9/16. 17/32 did not work. Maybe 35/64 would have worked, but I did not have that tap.
Only 2 bolts and even one would have probably work. It come out very easily. To the point that I am thinking to drill and tap my wedges before butting them back on, as a preventive measure, in case I broke a jack bolt.
Of course, if the wedge is not broken, you cannot get it out because of the pinion, but you can for sure get it loose, and then, the other one can come off.

It was dark when I finished.
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Sorry for the many misspells in previous post, big fingers softened by all the hammering last night (before to take the drill out, I worn out myself on the sledge).

Question: Do you have a trick to remove broken jack bolts out after the wheel gets off? Blow them with a torch? Drill them out?
 
Maybe means an air chisel. They have a variety if bits and whack pretty hard and fast (depending on air pressure). Not expensive at HF and others. HTH
 
That must be a 5020 or 6030. Don't you love how they flip those wheels around backwards and call them duals. 20 or 30 years of being stuck on on the axle and they expect a hand wrech will remove the bolts and jack the wedges out. I am 100% axle duals only.

My neighbor got frustrated with one of those cast centers and went and rented a concrete saw and cut it in half and then found a replacement from salvage for $100.
 
(quoted from post at 18:51:17 04/20/16) That must be a 5020 or 6030. Don't you love how they flip those wheels around backwards and call them duals. 20 or 30 years of being stuck on on the axle and they expect a hand wrech will remove the bolts and jack the wedges out. I am 100% axle duals only.

My neighbor got frustrated with one of those cast centers and went and rented a concrete saw and cut it in half and then found a replacement from salvage for $100.

Actually, this is a 4620 powershift. The one I would keep.
I have seen those duals on 4520, 4620, 5020, 6030, 4630. I think that they look very good, better than pressed steel duals.I got a 4620 and a 5020 because I like the amount of cast steel on those machines. So that is not to put "flumzy" wheels in it. Everything has to be 1" thick or more!

I think that error on the wedge design is to not have provide for extractor bolts for the second wedge. When you got one of the pusher bolt broken (happen so far 50% of the time), you are trying to push on only one side of the wedge that is keyed on the shaft, so she is binding up.
It seems that on the 55 series, they fixed that by having bolts to push on both wedges. For dual application with the wheel reversed, drilled and tapped outside wedge would make a world of difference when it is time to remove.

Also, the idea to have the pusher bolts all the time in there is in fact not that great, because they rust solid and then you cannot even get them out without breaking them. Other than that I am pretty happy whith the design and that is why I got one. I heard that IH one bolt clamp hub was not easy to remove either, but never tried.
 

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