Hydraulics on 3010 intermittent ......

I have a 1961 3010 deisel Syncro range trans. Runs and drives good. I finally got to use the rear remotes on a pull type disc today and noticed after a few passes the rear remote hyd quit... I sat there and tried the 3 point and nothing either. I scratched my head and speed the engine up and nothing, the steering seemed a little slower than usual. So I got off looked around and started to disconnect the rear lines and I felt pressure on the line after I moved the lever, then all of a sudden the loft came up and the disc lifted up and the rear had lever clicked in the netrual position, I then got back on and it worked fine and the 3 point lift worked too. So I made a few more passes and it did the same thing... I was watching the rear scv lever and it looked like the lever was getting stuck and not returning to neutral position some times. Could this cause the 3 point to stop as well and is it "floating the hydraulics " causing the hyd pressure to neutralize ? I don't think the pump is bad but something is out of sorts ??? Any suggestions?
 

How long since hyd filter was changed & hyd sump screen checked/cleaned? I'd recommend to get a 5000# gauge to check stand-by pressure which should be 2250 psi. If pressure gets below about 1700 psi priority(pressure control) valve under hood will close blocking flow to scv & 3 pt hitch. It's also possible frt hyd pump drive coupler is slipping on hyd pump shaft.

Hyd lever on dash not returning to neutral will not affect hyd flow unless that function has a large internal leak or happens to control an open center function
 
I am going to replace the hyd oil filter. Where is the suction line screen? The lowest steel line beside the filter housing? I was thinking filter
change but when I messed with the rear remote lever and it works fine when it worked got me thinking a valve issue but I need to do process of
elimination starting with filter. I assume you can increase the pressure or maybe it's possible it has lowered over the years. Thanks for the tips!
 

Stand-by pressure can change over time. Screen location is noted in photo. One must drain hyd oil or insert the nozzle of a running shop vac in hyd filler hole to create a vacuum to keep oil in sump while screen is removed.

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Sounds like you've done the shop vac thing before. I will probably drain to see what's actually in the oil just to be safe. Thanks for the pic!
 
I doubt it is a filter or screen issue being an intermittent problem, but it is best to eliminate the easy things first.
 
The stand-by pressure is hovering at about 1600-1800 psi, the priority valve shuts the rear components off at about 1700psi, as it fluctuates it will give you the symptoms that you have. The stroke valve dictates the stand-by pressure, so you can screw the adjusting screw in to increase pressure,,or if the stroke valve is faulty it will need changed to get the stand by pressure up to the 2250 area to make all work well...and the front pump could be just plain worn out..it could be 55 years old...and pumped a Zillion gallons by now...I repair and bench test pumps here, and some of them are just worn too bad to repair...you can get a new after market pump for $1200,,,at lot of times that is the best way to go...Deere gets $2650 for theirs,,and it's the same pump as the $1200 one...
a223300.jpg
 
Tim
That's a Reliance pump if you are a dealer.
100% new. The $1200 pump you mention might be
a "new housing" pump. All new except for the
valve housing. I have sold several of those
over the years w/ no problems.
 
I do not kneomaboutnthe adjustment, but was going to go and see if I have a repair book that has the 3010. I have a book for a 2520 and 4020. The 4020 Deere manual should have the same setup since it's the same pump I suppose.
 

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