Rebuilt John Deere 60 Carburetor Floods, Will Not Start.

pmarkel

Member
I recently had the carburetor on my John Deere 60 (DLTX 81, dual induction) rebuilt. I installed it last night, but the tractor will not start. It seems the carb floods almost immediately, with gas seeping out of every orifice on the carb. Has anyone experienced this problem, and what was the solution? Thank you for your time.

Sincerely,

Peter Markel
 
Junk needle/seat or they set float wrong or float has hole in it. When I build these I sit them up level on bench for 24 hrs with fuel reservoir above ,tapping them frequently with screwdriver, and they do not leak...anywhere. Do you suppose he actually did that ? Out of the 3 choices, I would suspect low quality junk needle/seat. We are assuming you drained/cleaned your tank so you know it isn't dirty/rusty fuel doing it.
 
(quoted from post at 17:21:39 04/08/16) Junk needle/seat or they set float wrong or float has hole in it. When I build these I sit them up level on bench for 24 hrs with fuel reservoir above ,tapping them frequently with screwdriver, and they do not leak...anywhere. Do you suppose he actually did that ? Out of the 3 choices, I would suspect low quality junk needle/seat. We are assuming you drained/cleaned your tank so you know it isn't dirty/rusty fuel doing it.
Yeh the tank is pretty clean, I drained it over winter and theres no rust in there. So, accordingly, I should take the carb off again and inspect the float and float needle?
 
We can give you all kind of instructions on here but if I were you I would give the "builder" a chance to make it right before you go tearing into it. They may not be happy with the fact you tore into it "before" calling them. My e-mail is open.
 
(quoted from post at 18:25:53 04/08/16) We can give you all kind of instructions on here but if I were you I would give the "builder" a chance to make it right before you go tearing into it. They may not be happy with the fact you tore into it "before" calling them. My e-mail is open.
he mechanic who rebuilt did not completely finish it (he installed the new throttle shaft bushings but not the throttle shaft, disks, felt and plug because he didn't have the right size reaming bit. He suggested I take it elsewhere. I reamed the throttle shaft bushings myself so that the throttle shaft turns freely but without slop. Anyhow, I think I am on my own with this one. I figure I will check it out myself and if I can't fix it, I will take it to a shop that specializes in carb repair. Therefore, any input would be helpful.
 
Well, in my opinion/experience, if it leaks that bad and that quickly after you try to start it , it is probably either the wrong needle/seat or it's one of the cheap , made wrong, rubber tipped needles. By made wrong I mean not concentric or the ones that use a little clip to hold the needle to the float.That clip gets in the way of correct operation. It should not even have one. If you can , find a needle that is all steel,get one , the rubber tipped ones are junk (or at least 75% of them). I don't think it's your float but while apart, dunk it in a dish of HOT water and watch for bubbles. Make sure it's in there right before you remove it. It should have about 1/2-3/4" up and down travel. If it's in wrong it won't move hardly at all. Don't laugh, I've seen it.With carb on bench and upside down (needle closed)lay a straight edge across top of float and measure down to gasket surface. Should be 3/4" . Being it's upside down, less means to much fuel and more than 3/4 means less fuel level. If you are going to error a little make it be more. (less fuel). Post back with your results so we can all learn. If it was as easy as "throwing a kit in it" all the carb builders would be out of business.
 
(quoted from post at 07:20:29 04/09/16) Well, in my opinion/experience, if it leaks that bad and that quickly after you try to start it , it is probably either the wrong needle/seat or it's one of the cheap , made wrong, rubber tipped needles. By made wrong I mean not concentric or the ones that use a little clip to hold the needle to the float.That clip gets in the way of correct operation. It should not even have one. If you can , find a needle that is all steel,get one , the rubber tipped ones are junk (or at least 75% of them). I don't think it's your float but while apart, dunk it in a dish of HOT water and watch for bubbles. Make sure it's in there right before you remove it. It should have about 1/2-3/4" up and down travel. If it's in wrong it won't move hardly at all. Don't laugh, I've seen it.With carb on bench and upside down (needle closed)lay a straight edge across top of float and measure down to gasket surface. Should be 3/4" . Being it's upside down, less means to much fuel and more than 3/4 means less fuel level. If you are going to error a little make it be more. (less fuel). Post back with your results so we can all learn. If it was as easy as "throwing a kit in it" all the carb builders would be out of business.
The float had plenty of movement, it certainly wasn't in upside down or anything like that. As for the needle, it is the rubber tipped type with the clip. I installed the old one (also rubber tip) to see if it made any difference. It still floods right away. I have not come across any needles online that dont have the viton tip. Do you know who might carry those?
 
Leave the clip out, it doesn't need it. I have only came across one that had that clip and it leaked until I took it out.Also make sure float pin is straight and clean. Take out seat and make sure there's a good fiber washer under it. I have not found any steel ones on the net either. Once you eliminate everything else you may as well get another needle seat. No other reason for it to flood. It's going to be luck of the draw whether you get one that works,I guess. Back when I was changing head gaskets on quite a few 2.2 mopars, found part of the problem was faulty head bolts. Went to auto store and bought DANA brand. Got home and 3 were warped and you couldn't even turn them in the hole they were hitting the side of the hole. Took them back and we had to go through 3 packages of new ones to get a full unwarped set. New means nothing.
 
(quoted from post at 19:33:35 04/09/16) Leave the clip out, it doesn't need it. I have only came across one that had that clip and it leaked until I took it out.Also make sure float pin is straight and clean. Take out seat and make sure there's a good fiber washer under it. I have not found any steel ones on the net either. Once you eliminate everything else you may as well get another needle seat. No other reason for it to flood. It's going to be luck of the draw whether you get one that works,I guess. Back when I was changing head gaskets on quite a few 2.2 mopars, found part of the problem was faulty head bolts. Went to auto store and bought DANA brand. Got home and 3 were warped and you couldn't even turn them in the hole they were hitting the side of the hole. Took them back and we had to go through 3 packages of new ones to get a full unwarped set. New means nothing.
Thank you for the advice. I will try removing the clip tomorrow and report back.
 
Another thing you can do is to clean the seat with some Brass cleaner. Put a dab on a O-tip and use a cordless drill to spin it in the seat, should clean up real good.
 
(quoted from post at 07:14:59 04/10/16) Another thing you can do is to clean the seat with some Brass cleaner. Put a dab on a O-tip and use a cordless drill to spin it in the seat, should clean up real good.
hanks for the advice. I actually did something similar. I didnt have brass cleaner so i soaked the end of a q-tip with parts cleaner and used a drill to buff it. I dont know if that helped any because I identified the major problem. I was looking through the old parts that I had taken out of the carb, and I came across the power jets. Apparently the mechanic who had done the bulk of the rebuild forgot to re-install those so the bowl just kept flooding when I tried to start the tractor. Lesson learned is that the person who takes it apart (in this case, me) is the one who should put it back together. Anyhow, the 60 is up and running again. Thank you everyone for the help.
 
(quoted from post at 19:26:08 04/10/16) I assume you mean the long brass load nozzles ? Glad he's your mechanic...glad ya found it.
No, not the main nozzles, I am not sure how to describe them, they are like very small screws with a thin passage through. (Part no. R10128R, Jet, Power, 2 used).
 
The power jets are for more precise control in the fuel management of the carburetor. Sorry, they have no connection to the fuel level, that is controlled by the float and the needle/ seat alone. At any rate glad you are back up and running.
 

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