4010 Shortcomings?

2510Paul

Well-known Member
What shortcomings did the JD 4010 have?

I understand there was a shortcoming with the PTO. Can someone explain briefly what it was?

Paul
 
The pto is held on with four bolts and two drive pins. With lots of use the drive pins wear and this then causes the four bolts to work loose. If not caught in time there is a little pin on the inside of the trans. that has to do with changing the pto gears from 540 to 1000 this pin will break because it is trying to drive on both gears. The pin is not much bigger than a twenty penny nail but requires the tractor to be split to replace. For years my big tractor was a 4010 with a 4020 engine and we used the pto hard on a forage harvester and we never had any problems. Just made sure to check the bolts. I did shear the pin once because of a bad driveline on a NH 411 discbine.A 4020 is a little better but there is nothing wrong with or to scared of on a 4010.The 4020's have one size bigger oil lines and a different pto.The 4010 is geared about 1/3 faster than a 4020. Tom
 
I don't think the gearing is a third different, but the faulty PTO set up is a bad thing,, enough to not want one to me..
 
The one dealer suggested using locking tabs on the PTO bolts and with use on a wire baler and 2 row forage harvester we never had any problems thereafter. Our 4010 has been pretty trouble free since it was bought new by us in the 1960's. I would not be afraid of a 4010 that has a good history behind it. The 4020 does offer advantages besides the PTO upgrade in optional Powershift, optional differential lock, and increased engine displacement.
 
Yes keeping the bolts tight is important,,once they are run loose a few times a lot of bad things happen..
 
Thanks for your comments. I have been googling this topic and looking at the parts book online. Is the pin number R36666? Paul
 
I make a lock out for them and delete the 1,000 RPM option..Doing away with the pins
 
(quoted from post at 22:30:56 02/09/16) Thanks for your comments. I have been googling this topic and looking at the parts book online. Is the pin number R36666? Paul

No R36666 isn't the pin in question but R26687 (parts key 32) is the little culprit

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I agree with Tim that if I split a 3010/4010 for a bent/broken pto shift pin it would come out of the shop as 540 only. Back in the day I changed several over to 540 only.
 
(quoted from post at 21:18:46 02/09/16) If not caught in time there is a little pin on the inside of the trans. that has to do with changing the pto gears from 540 to 1000 this pin will break because it is trying to drive on both gears.

It's been a long time since I've seen the speed shifting mechanism on a 4010 but I'm thinking rod(parts key 34),tube(parts key 36) & spring(parts key 35) will keep from shifting into both speeds at the same time. I thought bent pin would not push collar far enough to engage 540 gear(parts key 40)
 
In fact I used a couple 1000 RPM gears out of a 4010 for some of the gearing in my 60 4X4 transfer case,, they just happened to be right and I had a bucket full of them here,,I call it "Re-purposing"...
 
Personally, I love my 4010D. Fantastic piece of iron that is a true workhorse for me. IMO, it's all about maintenance (and assuming non-abuse too). Like the PTO....I check for bolt tightness regularly and when I installed them, I used locktite as well. Still have the 24v system which works incredible starting that motor even when in single digits outside w/o heater nor starting aids (e.g. either). Parts are still readily available. I wouldn't hesitate a second to get a 4010.
 

All this being said we've had a 4010 on our farm for 50 years and have never had an issue with the PTO despite using it on all types of equipment at 540 and 1000 RPM.
The only real problems we've had with it were with the electrical system.
 
The main problem with the pto (other than poor design) was the operator.
When you bolt on the shaft that is solid, you had to rotate the shaft so the
teeth lined up or the pin got bent or broken.
Also if the dowel pins/holes got worn it was impossible to keep the bolts tight.
I've eve had to replace the shaft that runs the length of the transmission.
 
Dad bought a '63 4010-D in December '68, already had the 4020 kit in the engine at 2500 hours? Still had
the factory installed 45 degree lug 15.5 X 38 Good Years with 50% tread. Tractor must never have been
used after Labor Day till Easter, no block heater. 24V electrical system was problematic, starter &
generator both rebuilt first year we owned it, needed new batteries every two years. Replaced water pump
second year and again with major overhaul last winter we owned it, tie rod ends on WFE had loads of play,
over half turn of play in steering wheel, tractor never had a loader on it, did use a 4 row wide frt mount
cultivator before Dad bought it, and Dad got the cultivator at sale. Steering motor had some sort of leak,
steering wheel turned about a full turn every round plowing 1/4 mile rows, never knew where the steering
wheel spinner was going to be. Draft bar seals failed 2nd year also. Third year we had the injection pump
rebuilt because the thing was struggling pulling our 12 ft disk in plowed ground. Had it set for 100-105
hp, and within 40-50 hours popped the head gasket. The whole time we ran the tractor on heavy field work it
used 4-5 quarts of oil per tank of fuel, and surprisingly, it had no engine oil leaks. The hyd. Pump drive
coupling never failed, only common weak spot we didn't have to fix. Only ever used the 4010 to run the #30
pull type combine. Had to tighten the capscrews on stub shaft after every load of oats. Never used the PTO
for anything else until Dad was using it on the 6 ft Billion bush hog to mow grass waterways and the stub
shaft loosened and took out the speed change gearbox. Tractor was taken to a private repair shop for
repair, and was sold after repaired, new owner had M&W turbo added before taking delivery of tractor and
less than a year later knocked out the transmission/rear end.

I think the tractor was on one of the first loads of scrap steel sent to China be be made into paperclips.
It was a nice enough tractor to run, just required way too much time and money to keep running for the 125-
150 per year we ran it. Every time you hooked it to something and took off for the field you thought
"What's going to break next?" Most times it was something totally unexpected and different from whatever
had broke before. The 4020's I ran for the BTO neighbor never had the irritating problems we had with the
4010. Yep, think I'd pass on ever having a 4010/3010 again. Not sure the third reverse in a 4010 is worth
not having a diff lock.... Actually, not hard to get the 3rd reverse in a 4020 anyhow. There's even a 4th
reverse but it's an ugly modification.
 
Thanks everyone for the comments. I had always heard the PTO could be an issue but never understood it. A nice looking 4010 showed up on Craig's list. I guess I'll pass. I really don't need it anyway. Paul
 
I don't know if I would call it a shortfall or not, but the final drives in the 10 series were not as heavy as in the 20 series.
 
(quoted from post at 17:42:25 02/10/16) Thanks everyone for the comments. I had always heard the PTO could be an issue but never understood it. A nice looking 4010 showed up on Craig's list. I guess I'll pass. I really don't need it anyway. Paul

Why would you let not needing it keep you from buying it?
 

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