I just pulled the front end out from under my new to me '69 3020 to rebuild the steering motor. I'm sitting here looking at the hydraulic pump realizing that I'm only about 10 minutes from having it out. It seemed to work fine and I don't see any leaks but admit that it is buried under about an inch of dirt so I'm not sure. Seal kits for the pump look cheap, should I tackle it while I'm here or leave it alone? It would have to be a day job for a mechanically inclinedible person due to the current budget. I do have a deere service manual and am studying it now. I'm also concerned that it may need parts other than the seal kit. Thanks in advance!
- Thread starter Deere_Man
- Start date
2002sliverado
Member
One of my best friends was faced with the identical scenario. He had his 3020 for over 35 years when faced with this dilemma. He also had a loader on his for at least 30 of those years with that loader being used for loading and hauling manure as well as handling big round bales for 20 years. He opted to take out the hydraulic pump and have it opened up by a friend of his who is pretty sharp at this type of work. According to what he shared with me, 3 of the 8 pistons were fully functional. He had the pump rebuilt and has not regretted the investment to this day. The tractor also had a lot of hours on it from years and years of use with the front end loader, too. I have no idea as to what your 3020 has been used for over the years of your ownership.
Tim may prove me wrong, but you will end up putting a shaft in it. Usually the shaft is worn enough that the new quad ring may seal it for now but who knows. But yours being a later model it will have the leak line going to the rearend that will help. And eight hundred dollars goes pretty fast if you put new guts in it. Just my thoughts. chris
hello, if you go into the pump, you NEED to press the bearing off the long end of the shaft to look at the straight roller bearings on the cam of the shaft. about 75% of the time i have found excessive wear and pitting of the shaft and rollers, requiring replacement. you can get the shaft thru A&I at your dealer if you ask for it and save some $$$$ i been doing these pumps for 40+ years, so just sharing my experience. look at the stroke valve closely as it controls your pump pressure.
You are right on that Grwrench..when it gets down to a worn out pump a new one from a good after market is a better option, by the time you put a new shaft, cam roller and needle bearings, plus the kit and stroke valve,,and "then" you have worn piston bores...you near a new pump...
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
I have seen Tims's shop and hydraulic test/rebuild bench . The system is top rate . I would venture to say it's superior to all but a very few.
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
b&d we rarely agree but I wish a replica of Tim's test bench had been in existence way back when I was a JD dealer service manager as I might not have as many grey hairs in my head! :wink:
Tx Jim
Well-known Member
- Location
- Coyote Flats, Texas
Deere_Man
The PN you posted is the part of the stroke control valve which consists of parts key 42,43 & 44 which I think RE10712 contains
R70559 subs to the following PN's
R27166 O-Ring - PACKING O RING ADD 1.54 USD
RE10712 Control Valve - VALVE, STROKE CONTROL, ASSEMBLY 58.00 USD
R41057 Back-Up Ring - RING,BACK-UP 1.78 USD
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