Sound Guard cab on new generation JD

72supr

Member
I would like to put a Sound Guard cab on a 1972 JD 4000. Anybody know someone who has and how it worked out.
 
There is a video on YouTube of someone
that did it. Made all the shifters and
hydraulic levers work on the sound
guard system. Think it was on a 6030.
Or like the farm I worked for throw it
on good enough it doesn't fall off and
call it good. Not a nice job more of a
wind break.
 
(quoted from post at 19:09:04 01/28/16) Thanks craigco.I found the video and looks like he sure knew what he was doing. Again thanks.]

I agree...Oh wait that was me. I am working on a 4620 SG right now. After that a 4320 and then maybe a 4020 down the road.
 
Well I didn't tell a lie sure looks good. What would a cab cost? How long did it take? Looks awful nice!
 
(quoted from post at 19:35:50 01/28/16) Well I didn't tell a lie sure looks good. What would a cab cost? How long did it take? Looks awful nice!


Here's a better pic. You can probably get a cab for around the 3k range. Then you have to start fixing it because it probably has rust and other issues. If not that's a plus. The 6030 was a lot harder than a smaller tractor and took a lot of extra engineering time. I also changed all the shifters and done away with the dash from the tractor and utilized the one that came with the cab. Total time just working in my spare time was about 2 years. A smaller tractor like a 4020 or 4320 I could probably do in a couple months. Of course I like to 'restore' as I go and that takes longer than just bolting a rusty dirt cab to the tractor. I actually gutted my cab down to nothing, knowing it would have all new plastic and interior and mouldings and such.

The real thing to address on a 4020/4320/4620 is where the hydraulic oil fill is. With a SG in place, the oil fill is covered up. So you will have to address this. The rest is just deciding if you want to dump the cab over the tractor's dash or if you want to remove all that and keep the 30/40 series dash and tilt steering. If you do the latter, the brakes hook up easy with a couple hoses and you can hook up the diff pedal under the dash too. Remember if you remove your dash, you will have to relocate the shifter to the side. Which I would do anyways if it were mine. Also the cab will cover over the diff pedal so if you don't use the cab's dash, you will have to figure that out if you have a diff pedal and want to keep it. The scv's should be pretty easy to hook up but you may have to do some customizing of the arms and linkages. The 6030 required a lot of changes because they layout is so different. A 4020, especially a late one should be fairly straight forward.


32366.jpg
 
You need to find an earlier cab to get the right
steering valve unless you stay with the 4000 dash.
Might be cheaper to trade for a 4230.
 
(quoted from post at 20:36:15 01/28/16) You need to find an earlier cab to get the right
steering valve unless you stay with the 4000 dash.
Might be cheaper to trade for a 4230.


The valves and cabs are interchangeable so no worry there. I put an early valve in my late model cab. The later cabs with the wider seat well are nice and will let you use the hydraulic seat or change to an air seat. Early cab, you will have to stick with the cruddy 4020 style seat suspension.

But yes if you are worried about what you might spend doing something like this, just go buy a 4230 or trade for one. There are so many things you have to do right or you might as well not attempt it.
 
(quoted from post at 20:46:27 01/28/16) [Would like to keep the dash the way it is . Thanks

Perfeclty fine, just remember that the SG dash and firewall seals out a lot of engine noise, where the open dash of the 4020 won't.

Here's some pics of a 4320 I dug up. It uses the tractor's dash. Appears to have ac too which can be another big cost




32368.jpg


32369.jpg


32370.jpg
 
I wanted to keep the dash because it's a 4000 powershift kind of rare.Sent you an email maybe didn't go through.
 
(quoted from post at 20:59:20 01/28/16)
(quoted from post at 20:36:15 01/28/16) You need to find an earlier cab to get the right
steering valve unless you stay with the 4000 dash.
Might be cheaper to trade for a 4230.


The valves and cabs are interchangeable so no worry there. I put an early valve in my late model cab. The later cabs with the wider seat well are nice and will let you use the hydraulic seat or change to an air seat. Early cab, you will have to stick with the cruddy 4020 style seat suspension.

But yes if you are worried about what you might spend doing something like this, just go buy a 4230 or trade for one. There are so many things you have to do right or you might as well not attempt it.

I haven't checked lately but Deere used to offer a piece of sheetmetal to make the seat well wider. I used this install an air seat on my 4430 many years ago.
 
(quoted from post at 21:46:25 01/28/16) I wanted to keep the dash because it's a 4000 powershift kind of rare.Sent you an email maybe didn't go through.

On my 6030, I can change it completely back to stock if I wanted to. In other words I didn't modify anything on the tractor itself. Not that I ever would though. A 4000 ps, you might catch flack for doing anything other thank keeping it open station.

And Richard, yes I have heard about such a piece. I think one of my suppliers carries them.
 
New Gen does really nice work and has excellent fabricating skills which few have.If you have an original 72 4000 P.S.I would leave it the way it is.I am sure part of it is a labor of love and the challenge but I would be surprised if you could do that kind of a job for $10K +.
 
Personally I would leave a 72 4000 powershift original and if you still wanted to to do a sound guard cab conversion maybe buy a less rare tractor like a 4020 powershift to do it on. I do think a new generation with a sound guard would be pretty neat. Heck, if you wanted to sell your 4000 to fund a different tractor to do the conversion I would be interested if it's in good condition.
 
I put a Stolper cab on this tractor twenty five years ago it's needs some work. It's not correct for the year. The tractor is original and excellent condition and block is compressor ready. It doesn't sit in the shed get's used all year. Thought about a sound guard cab but maybe I'll look for a Hinson with heat and air. Anybody have one?
 
I'd think you'd find a Hinson pretty easily. It seems like its the "cool" thing to do to take them off... you se plenty of 4020s, 4320s etc for sale on this site that
have had the cabs removed.
 
I wouldn't put one of those noisy rattle traps on. That's one of the main reasons guys take them off. Along with the fact that the a/c system stinks and you will never be able to keep it going.
 
The only good part of a Hinsen cab is the RollGuard.The Stolper also had a canopy that was the same as the original canopy from JD just needs fan hole filled in.They are still a bit noisy but they do look nice and may save your life..We had a 6030 with a Hinsen that we traded for a 4630 strictly on cab alone as the performance was better on the 6030 just too noisy.When NewGen said it takes more than a year that tells you its much more than a bolt on swap.His are as nice as you will find and would be hard to duplicate.I seen a 69 4020 done[poorly] and it was at several consignment sales before it sold at less than market value.If you still have your 4000 fenders they bring good money.Good Luck as its your tractor to do as you like.I saw a real nice 4230 bring $12K and a nice 72 4000D P.S. open station original bring $30K+.Usually a Hinsen cab tractor will bring $2500 less than an open station
 
I've thought about taking my cab apart and using it as canopy but then you just have a summertime tractor.NewGen if you were to do a tractor like this what would a rough dollar guess be?
 
(quoted from post at 07:50:37 01/31/16) I've thought about taking my cab apart and using it as canopy but then you just have a summertime tractor.NewGen if you were to do a tractor like this what would a rough dollar guess be?

It would be hard give an exact figure because there are so many variables involved. If you are doing this yourself and can engineer and make your own brackets and other parts, that would save you quite a bit. I can tell you that I spent a lot of time sitting on a stool next to my tractor just brainstorming and trying to figure out how to do things. I am glad I could do that myself and not have to pay someone to do it for me. But if you have to pay for someone elses engineering and fabrication time, then you are at their mercy

Also, do you plan to get the a/c going? I assume yes. Can you do all the a/c yourself or will you need to hire it? New compressor, condensor, drier and lines plus labor to install on my tractor was $2500. That was from the bottom of the cab forward. Did not include the lines up the cab, which I replaced myself. I also did the expansion valve while I was in there, just to be on the safe side. So if the lines in the cab you purchase need replaced, that's another $200-400 roughly. How about the evaporator and the blowers? Are they working correctly. Also, is the cab top damaged? I replaced mine, they are $300-$400. Will it need a new seat or interior? If not, that's a plus. So you can begin to see how things start to add up. If the cab is in good shape and doesn't need a lot, and you keep it simple by keeping the dash intact, then I'm certain you could do the whole project for 8-10k. So figured 3k for the cab purchase and 3k for a/c and 1-4k labor and materials to get the cab mounted to the tractor. I think mine was probably double that due to the extra modifications we had to do on the cab itself, and even the repair work to some rusted areas. Not to mention all the linkages we built. I replaced all the interior upholstry and plastic. Re-did all the window and door mouldings and put in a not so cheap air ride seat. I also bought a new floormat and that was not cheap either.

If you go cab shopping, try to find one that has sat out as little as possible. I know it is hard because the more abused stuff is what you will typically find in a salvage yard. Definitely look it over thoroughly for rust as that is a good indicator. Sometimes, it's what you don't see that can be worse than what you do see. So don't be afraid to pull up the padding and floormat inside--because a cab that leaks can look great with new padding, but it can be all rusted out underneath.
 
(quoted from post at 10:06:10 01/31/16) Thanks for the info I guess now I can decide what I want to do.

They are fun projects and I like a challenge. I plan on doing at least 2-3 more (and maybe some for others if I perfect it). I would like to have a full fleet for myself ie 6030, 4620, 4320 and maybe 4020. I am also considering doing my 7520,using a 8630 cab. But for the average user, another 5k and you could get into a decent 4230 with cab and air and keep your collectible in the barn. You will just have to decide what's right for you.
 
Yea I'm sure it would be quite the project. Should probably let it set in the shed but it's such a handy outfit. If I could figure out these things I wouldn't post same thing twice. Good luck on the next one.
 

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