John Deere 1520

Good morning. I've come across a JD 1520 that is close to home and within my price range. It has new tires and rims on the front, new rear fenders and a 2-year old paint job.

I'm looking to do light to moderate farm work with it, ie. mowing, raking, square baling hay. Front end loader work such as mucking barns, handling round bales, moving snow. Bush-hogging, plowing, pulling a disk & tilling.

Some questions I have would be. I have a small barn, 40' x 40', will this tractor be nimble enough to maneuver in this space? Will a front end loader lift round bales with this size tractor? I know I'll have to add weight to the rear, but will the hydraulics be strong enough? Front axle?

For you JD guys, are there any known issues/bugs with this model? What should I look for when inspecting the tractor? Asking price is $4500, fair price?

Thank you!

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I think from viewing your photo the 1520 has swept-back frt axle. This option lessens turning radius & also lowers FEL lifting amount. Yes with rear counterbalance tractor can lift rd bales(depending on wt of bales) with FEL. Hyd pressure should be 2250 psi. Keep in mind nearly fresh paint job can be hiding other things.
 
Why would it need new front rims?? Not much horsepower for disking or plowing but you did not mention how many acres. It would be good
for mowing and raking and square baling. FEL would be limited.
 
I bought a 1020 gas this year for $4k. Not the same but close. We found a 2 bottom JD 415 plow for it and it handles it just fine. Pulled a 8 foot IH transport harrow and it did not have any problem pulling it. The 1520 has about 7 more HP so I would think it would do fine with proper sized implements. We do not farm large acreage and I do not think I would get this tractor for that purpose. The tractor in the picture already has a front weight and rear wheel weights on spin out rims.

Of course you want to run the PTO and use the 3 pt, preferabbly with an implement. Same thing if there are hydraulic remotes. I was not able to run an implement and realized afterwards the remotes needed to be rebuilt.

I would also check the tranny/hydro fluid. The dipstick would be by your right foot while sitting in the seat. I am sure someone else will tell you the best is to check the sump screen on the transmission if possible but I was not able to do that before I bought the 1020.
 
I would say your good to go on ever thing except the round bales. These tractors are known for being light in the rear, I'm sure it will pick them up if your not going very far.
 
Thanks everyone for the replies.

To answer some of your questions, I have a 1-acre garden I'm looking to plow, disk and till. As far as round bales go, I'm looking to be able to load them on a hay wagon, maybe sit over a fence to feed and stack/unstack in the field/barn. The tractor's main chores will be bush-hogging, first. Moving/raking hay, second and manure removal, third.

Any suggestions on what would be the optimal tractor for what I'm wanting to do? Sounds like this one is pretty close but maybe a little lightweight for the FEL work?

I also have a JI Case 885 (not the CaseIH model), Massey 135 & 165, and an IH 464 I'm considering. Any thoughts?
 
I think you'd get along fine. They are a good utility tractor. I
just sold my 1520 gasser for $4200 and bought a 165 diesel for
$3500. The 165 is a lot easier on fuel.
 
The 1520 would be fine for what you need. But I'd say finding a tractor with the front end loader already on it will be better than buying one without and then trying to get on that fits properly.
That similar style tractor as the 1520 was also sold by Deere as an industrial loader tractor. Like a 300 or 400 ? Now they did have heavier front ends and better built loaders than ag models the rest was the same and they are capable of lifting about 4000 lbs.
 

With the low interest rates and incentives . It won't hurt to at least look at what the JD dealer has in entry level equipment .
txjim. No 4x4 for myself this year . Just bought Mrs B&D the truck she wanted this morning.
 

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