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Re: John Deere 3020 239T Engine Swap

Are you interested in making another adapter to sell? I have a 3020 gas and have been thinking about doing what you are and I might buy an adapter if you are interested in building it. Tom
 
Hard to tell from the pictures but did you use a different clutch housing or make an adapter plate?
 
I used an adapter plate and front pump support for a 4030 tractor. After that I had to get creative.
 
Nope, had to modify them, had to drill holes and weld in shims to get the frame rails at the right spot to maintain wheelbase and radiator location, then I had to weld tabs on the rear portion of the frame catch the bolt holes on the adapter plate
 
Yes, that's what I was thinking would need to be done, especially at the rear end of the side frames,,then how does the hood seem to fit?? Are you aiming the exhaust to the 3020 muffler hole?? I have been doing some drawings on making a 4020 turbo system work out better by altering a new manifold,,letting the turbo lay back away from the hood a bit more and keeping the early dual SCV's from touching the manifold.. I made a turbo set up for our Farm late 3020 a few years ago, using a 4430 turbo manifold, and altering a 4020 intake, I slit the exhaust manifold and let it 'slip' up and over a bit for hood clearance then welded it back together, a lot of work but it went well,,, I don't think I would use the turbo that you are in the picture, my choice would be one off a 450 dozer..I have used them on 276 cid engines in the past with good results. I like the challenge of building new ideas...your doing a great job, wish I could stop in to watch ;^)
 
Yes, I'm going to exit the hood in the stock muffler hole, hood fits fine as good as can be expected on a beat up old 3020.

I modified a 4430 manifold to fit a hx52 under the hood of a 4010 puller same idea, took the exhaust flange completely down flush on the top of the manifold, welded a t4 sized flange on it. Had to lose the water manifold and make plates and fittings with rubber hose to connect back to the radiator.
 
The water manifold is where I'm at now, I want to come up with a handy way to off-set it using as much of the original stuff as I can, I want to make a nice functional kit that I can re-produce for sale.I'm toying with a wedge shaped spacer to tilt the manifold...but still not cramping the valve cover...
 
That's what this 4010 had before I worked on it, it has a wedge underneath and one on top to straighten the clamping surface out. Couldn't get the valve cover off without pulling the water manifold. Had to egg the hole a little bit to get the bolt through at an angle. The guy had a modified 4430 manifold with a 3lm turbo on it dumping into a stock 4430 intake. And it had the hood raised around 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch I can't remember.
 
Yes, it's close in there and I like to keep the hood looking right..it's kinda like putting 10lbs. of crapp in a 5 lb. bag..here is one of the one's I have done, I have shown it on here to give others an Idea, and maybe they can make it better for what they are doing..I like to share Ideas with you guys...
a210216.jpg

a210217.jpg

a210218.jpg

a210219.jpg
 
I thought I posted this possible problem area several days ago but don't see it, so am going again. Have you checked out the ability of the crank-to-front-dampner/pulley joint to handle the torque/power required by the hydraulic pump? My memory may be wrong, but I seem to recall that on the 4-239 it's just a taper fit, no key, no spline. A while in the on-line parts books should tell you.
 
It's always good to think about all possible goods/bads,, All the other 300 seriers engines run a front pump set up like this 3020 will be running. Conversions like these made in a farm shop enviroment are a huge under taking, and can be a real adventure,, and all the mind-bending thinking and work are very rewarding when they come together
 
Looks nice to me.

I have a narrow fron t on mine, but that choice is up to you. Adjusting a Deere wide front that hasn't been adjusted for 30 years or so than can be a challenge, though.
 
Tim,
That is the intention, chore tractor that has a set, it ought out run our ford 5200, at least until I put the 268T in that one. I have no intention to pull it, a buddy of mine have a ford 7200 with a 268T that dominates that class.

As adjusting the axle goes I think the only good thing is it's all the way out right now, my little gantry crane just barely fit around it.

16.9-38's ought to look pretty good on the back, at least it might sit level compared to the 12.4-38's that are on it now with 18's on the front.
 
Your far from being dumb Kent,, those markings are some kind of feed back from a so called "Smart" phone,,no one really knows why it happens,,just some more goofy things with no explanations..
 
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