Which type of JD 2010 do I have?

Hi all - I bought this diesel tractor non-running for $1000 including loader and backhoe. Figured I couldn't find a running backhoe for less than $6k, so if I can get this going for less than another $1000 on top of my initial investment I'll be tickled. I know everyone says they are crap but hoping I can save this from the dead. Plan minor use around yard, not working hard. It got water in it so its currently soaking with Mystery Oil. Previous owner disassembled and removed head etc so hoping I have all the pieces!!!

I'm not sure whether I have the "Row Crop Utility" version or the "Wheel Tractor" version? It seems that my dash doesn't have the same levers that I've seen in pics elsewhere, it just has a shifter on right side that I believe is for the 8 gears/ranges (decal gone), and another shifter on the left side of wheel but no idea what for. All the others I've seen pics of seem to have 3 levers on left???

He thought it was a 1969 but tag on engine says 2010W 18816 so that leads me to think its a 1961 but not sure if the W denotes model? Lady at JD parts wasn't sure either though she was very nice. Is there a way I can tell for sure between these units so I can order the right operators manual? It looks like wheel tractor model in a pic I saw as it has a separate air intake "can" on drivers side similar to a big rig and has lights behind the front grill, but not sure if that was possible on row crop utility or not? Its green and doesn't appear its a repaint, was "wheel tractor" only yellow? I have the service manual from previous owner but cover is torn off.
 
Oh and the bottom of service manual pages say SM-2036, we'll assume for sake of argument whoever spent the $ on that got it for the correct tractor LOL.
 
pics
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Well I made an incorrect statement. After viewing the photos it's an ind model painted green. Ind models had the cast hood nose around rad as in photo which ag tractors didn't have.
 
what you have there is a 2010 diesel wheel tractor. that is what the W stands for on the tag.
originally it was painted industrial yellow.
I can tell you right now you will not get it running for another 1000 bucks.
usually when apart like that there is something major wrong. cracked head for example, unobtainable
bad sleeves or cracked block, major teardown.
do yourself a favour and look around for a gas engine out of a combine or another tractor and put it into the machine
that way you can run it and use it fairly quick.
if you are a die hard ORIGINALLITY guy who wants the diesel back in it, then rebuild the diesel engine and put it in at a later time, but trust me you wont. they are to hard to find parts and to expensive to fix or repair.
just my two cents worth.
 
Thanks all so much. Upon further inspection
I did also find some areas where I could see
the original yellow paint.

First - I don't care about orginality or it
being a diesel AT ALL. I want something
that runs for cheap :) would love to hear
about what other gas or diesel engine swaps
are possible.

Seller seems genuine but obviously possible
there are other issues lurking. I should
have said I am hoping for under 1000 but if
I spent 1500-2000 I'd still be happy
assuming it's running good at that point.

So right now intake/exhaust/heads/cam/tank
are all out. I was thinking originally to
hopefully unstick pistons, reassemble and
hope for best. Now that I've reached a
group of experts, what is the recommended
course? Part may depend on next question.

Decals are gone - until op manual comes in
mail can some one share the info for both
levers? Left side of wheel sometimes
doesn't want to go to top but otherwise
moves fine. Right side doesn't want to seem
to budge from where it is on the right
"column"/gate. My next planned action was
to try and rock engine by jacking up rear
and spinning the tires.
 
"The belhousing will also except a two cylinder gas engine from a 420/430. Or a 2-53 Detroit from a 440ID."

Are there any other suitable swap candidates than the above?
Would gas from 440 work? I've seen a few tractors and dozers with those listed.
How about a 350 dozer etc?
I'm assuming anything out of any 1010 or 2010 would also swap in without major issue, regardless of gas/diesel and type (i.e. dozer vs tractor)?

Thanks folks so far.
 
(quoted from post at 01:15:14 11/19/15) "The belhousing will also except a two cylinder gas engine from a 420/430. Or a 2-53 Detroit from a 440ID."

Are there any other suitable swap candidates than the above?
Would gas from 440 work? I've seen a few tractors and dozers with those listed.
How about a 350 dozer etc?
I'm assuming anything out of any 1010 or 2010 would also swap in without major issue, regardless of gas/diesel and type (i.e. dozer vs tractor)?

Thanks folks so far.

Any 2010 and diesel 1010's are plain and simply something for a hobby collector. Do not ever expect any reliability or productivity.
If the backhoe is in good condition . Purchase for the hoe, separate from the tractor . Sell the tractor . Mount the hoe on something decent .
 
Ok - for thought, would this hoe mount
easily on an '88 Ford 2810? My great
grandmother on wife's side has one. She
isn't willing to sell yet, and not sure the
value of one with 776a loader, but that is
next logical option. And it runs great,
only 800 hours on it...
 
To the top!

So I've come across a 1964 GAS 2010w thats about an hour away. Does not have a hoe on it, but it does have loader and runs (needs ether to start).

He said the carb idle screw broke when trying to adjust, but it looks like a rebuilt carb is available here for $160 plus core.
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/John-Deere-2010_Carburetor-Rebuilt_1528CARB.html

I looked at the rear of mine vs. pics of the rear of that one and everything seems fine except they cut off the support bar that spans the bottom. Also looks like I'll need to add another pump or valve from mine onto his, but anything else I should look for in advance or just start swapping parts? Can post some pics to photobucket in a bit.

Does anyone have an idea about how heavy the hoe itself is? Without functioning hydraulics on the "old" tractor to help take itself off, I'm assuming best approach would be to have another tractor with loader hold it up while I dragged the old one out of the way and backed new one into spot?
 
Sorry this won't be much help, but here are my thoughts after looking at your pictures. Their are so many 64 dollar question's here it is impossible to give you a good answer. Does the new tractor's engine need repairs beyond a new carb, the use of starting fluid would leave me to believe it may also need more. Which tractor has the better transmission ? Not only would you need to add the pump off your current tractor to the new tractor, but, their appears to be no pto shaft on the new tractor, so you would have to tear both rear ends apart to swap the pto parts necessary to operate it, along with the change over of the hoe. A through examination of both tractors should be conducted to decide which one is in the best candidate to repair.. If you find the gas engine to be worthy, IMHO, it would be far less work to install it in your current tractor if the transmission is good in it.
 
My current diesel tractor was bought in the condition that currently its currently in, previous the owner tells me the transmission is fine but I have no proof.

I haven't yet going to see the newer tractor but it seems to be just having a bit of a hard time to start but otherwise operates as it should

Forgive my ignorance here but why do you think the new tractor is missing a PTO that I would have to remove from the old tractor? From what I know, it would be a stub sticking out the back to run implements etc but I don't see one of those on my old tractor back there either so I guess it was dark I could double check when I get home later today.
 
My response was directed at what other things you should consider as you put it before swapping parts from one tractor to the other and based from what I can see in your pictures. From your pictures of the green tractor, it looks like their is a rear mounted HDY pump on that tractor and the PTO stub as you put it is covered by the pump. Now in the pictures of the yellow tractor, no HDY pump is evident and no stub shaft is present either. On your green tractor if it is the same as my 2010 backhoe loader was their should be a handle on the left side of the seat to engage the PTO clutch housed with in the rear end along with the associated PTO drive components. As the yellow tractor shows no sign of the PTO stub shaft, I assumed that the PTO engagement lever, PTO clutch and associated drive components are also missing. You can view all of these parts on the JD online parts catalog for the 2010 tractor if you wish. Of course I could be totally wrong, IMHO it would be much easier to do an engine swap than transfer all the PTO parts and move the hoe to the other tractor, the choice is yours to make as to which swap you do.
 
Oh shoot, I see what you mean now. Ugh, perhaps my silver lining is not as bright as hoped. I was thinking everything would be a "bolt on" affair but with that missing, it seems unlikely.

Is there an easy way to find out differecession between gas and diesel models? In other words, I know I'll have to swap the engine itself and I presume trans are same, but what other components may need to be brought over such as fuel tank, radiator or something? Or just need to sit down with a 6 pack and compare part numbers between gas and diesel models?
 

I think you can swap engines without a lot of component(rad,fuel tank) changes although you'll probably have to remove those components to swap engines anyway.
 
You actually have the best chance with this combination. I'll try to keep this short.. The motor bolts to the bell housing/transmission and the front casting and then their are side rails as well on each side which will need to be removed to extract the engine. So you will be dismantling every thing from the transmission forward. Or you could do a front end swap by splitting and leaving the front-end together as if you were fixing the clutch. ( BTW check the clutch components as well while doing this. ) The biggest pain will be working around the loader, unless you take it off, which is what "I would do to start with". If my memory is correct the dash will stay with the front end/ motor/bell housing. Be aware their are a couple of hidden bolts that hold the back corners of the dash to the transmission, so don't force things apart. Doing the front end swap most every thing you will need will transfer as a unit. Or you can swap the PTO pieces over to the other tractor, I'm not sure just how far in to the rear-end/ transmission you would need to go. Seems to me that their is a shaft to drive the PTO that would need to be installed from the front of the transmission, so you would be splitting the tractor either way along with the PTO clutch located in the rear end , BUT, I could be wrong!! Proceed as you see fit. My last piece of advice is get out your digital camera and take lots of pictures before disassembling anything, they are a great reference if your memory fails like mine does.
 
Appreciate everyones time and guidance on this. Found my tractor has a crack in front cylinder, and I should have seen it before. The gas one I wanted to buy to swap parts with is now sold, so I think its a done deal. I posted it for $1000 firm hopefully someone will want it, otherwise I'll try to get the backhoe off in the spring and the rams then scrap the rest.
 

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