'68 JD 3020 Powershift Loader Replumb

GunGeek

Member
Thanks to Tx Jim I think I have Most of the stuff I need to get the loader off of my rear hyd ports. I just want to make sure that I have everything correct BEFORE I start tearing this thing apart to do it. I want to do this at the same time I change all of the fluid and filters. I have the T fittings for the right side already.

So based on what I have been told and read, the supply side will come off the fitting right behind the brakes using a T fitting I purchased. Please let me know if I am mistaken on that.

The return line can either come off of a filter cover OR be plumbed in near the filters. I have the ported filter cover but I would prefer not to use it if I do not have to unless it is better. If it is better should I put it on the front or the rear filter spot?

If I plumb directly in, there are three lines on the rear side of the filters. I tried to take some pictures but they didn't come out to well since I didn't remove the battery box. What I need to find out is which line should I plumb into here? There are two LARGE lines and one small one in the middle. The furthest right (rear) and most accessible line goes almost straight up. The smaller line in the middle goes towards the front of the tractor. And I dont remember where the left line went.
Attached are some images of what I am talking about here.
uWscs85.jpg

brtcRj9.jpg


And last, if I am looking at the rear hydraulic ports standing at the rear of the tractor. The loader is currently plugged in to that. Which side is supply, right or left?

I am going to do a complete instructable on this for future people with video pictures and written instructions as well. Once I get it done I will post a link to it and a link from it to here as well.
 

Yes I tried to go back in to edit the post but it wont let me. Jim, that looks like the Syncro trans, mine does not have ports in that position really, they are almost above the rear filter and there are three lines. I am guessing that the rear most port/line also the bigger of the three is the one that I need to plumb into.
 
(quoted from post at 15:45:49 10/08/15) Thanks to Tx Jim I think I have Most of the stuff I need to get the loader off of my rear hyd ports. I just want to make sure that I have everything correct BEFORE I start tearing this thing apart to do it. I want to do this at the same time I change all of the fluid and filters. I have the T fittings for the right side already.

So based on what I have been told and read, the supply side will come off the fitting right behind the brakes using a T fitting I purchased. Please let me know if I am mistaken on that.

The return line can either come off of a filter cover OR be plumbed in near the filters. I have the ported filter cover but I would prefer not to use it if I do not have to unless it is better. If it is better should I put it on the front or the rear filter spot?

If I plumb directly in, there are three lines on the rear side of the filters. I tried to take some pictures but they didn't come out to well since I didn't remove the battery box. What I need to find out is which line should I plumb into here? There are two LARGE lines and one small one in the middle. The furthest right (rear) and most accessible line goes almost straight up. The smaller line in the middle goes towards the front of the tractor. And I dont remember where the left line went.
Attached are some images of what I am talking about here.
uWscs85.jpg

brtcRj9.jpg


And last, if I am looking at the rear hydraulic ports standing at the rear of the tractor. The loader is currently plugged in to that. Which side is supply, right or left?

I am going to do a complete instructable on this for future people with video pictures and written instructions as well. Once I get it done I will post a link to it and a link from it to here as well.

Process of elimination.
The small line won't flow enough. The line routed up front to supply the closed center pump can't be used for a loader return line. That leaves the oil return line from the rockshaft, routed into the point between the transmission pump outlet and the filter inlet.
 

So the most rear line is the correct one is what I get from that as it runs almost straight up. It appears much bigger than the part numbers that Jim listed above. I am going to try to find the proper T fitting to go here.

Also should add that it looks like my loader is using 1/2" rubber hydraulic hoses.
 

It looks like Jim's part numbers will work on both Powershift and Syncro based on the JD parts Catalog and the specs on the fittings. The T is the only piece I am missing right now.
 
(quoted from post at 21:42:13 10/08/15)
So the most rear line is the correct one is what I get from that as it runs almost straight up. It appears much bigger than the part numbers that Jim listed above. I am going to try to find the proper T fitting to go here.

Also should add that it looks like my loader is using 1/2" rubber hydraulic hoses.
 

THANK YOU, I was looking at the that image and the only one I could make sense out of was the Rockshaft. Last part is ordered, should have the "T" for return line next week. If weather holds out will get to it Wednesday. And post the whole project by Friday.

On the bright side we have been getting some rain around here but I cant work on the tractor in the arena so it holds back fixing the tractor.

Again Everyone, I thank you for your help.
 
Welcome, the only problem is that I posted a picture from the parts list of the rochshaft oil lines from a Syncro trans, it should of been the powershift trans. The return line is different, but still in the same area.



(quoted from post at 22:08:36 10/08/15)
THANK YOU, I was looking at the that image and the only one I could make sense out of was the Rockshaft. Last part is ordered, should have the "T" for return line next week. If weather holds out will get to it Wednesday. And post the whole project by Friday.

On the bright side we have been getting some rain around here but I cant work on the tractor in the arena so it holds back fixing the tractor.

Again Everyone, I thank you for your help.
 
Oh yeah I forgot, which side of the rear port is supply and which side is return?

Also what is the best kind of thread sealant to use on hydraulic lines and fittings? I have both a Tape kind for petroleum oils and the pipe dope paste.
 

The pair of SCV quick couplers at the back can swap pressure and return depending on which way the scv lever is pushed.
There is even a float position that will open a valve between the two couplers.
 
(quoted from post at 08:19:10 10/09/15) Oh yeah I forgot, which side of the rear port is supply and which side is return?

Also what is the best kind of thread sealant to use on hydraulic lines and fittings? I have both a Tape kind for petroleum oils and the pipe dope paste.

You will need to look at markings on ind valve to determine pressure & return ports. I used Teflon tape for yrs installing NPT fittings with no problems. Just be sure to wrap threads the correct direction(CCW) and don't get any tape on the 2 very end threads so no tape can get inside hose or use pipe liquid sealer.
 

I have got all of the components now and in search of finding some fittings found a really nice place with LOTS of fittings for future needs. I found where my Hydraulic valve for the loader specifies inlet so that is all good. That being said, I would like to hit this project tomorrow. I was attempting to go to sleep when something rang in my head "Open Center" Vs "Closed Center" . Jim if I remember right you said that it HAD to be a closed center FEL valve to do this correct? What is the best way to tell if the FEL valve is OC or CC?

Then if mine isnt the proper one, where is the best place to get a new one at a decent price.
 

If FEL valve has an adjustable relief valve then it needs to be tightened completely down or at least to 2400 psi. To determine if valve is OC or CC after inlet(pressure) hose for valve is attached to tractor have both control levers in neutral,return hose aimed in tractor hyd filler hole crank engine and if no oil comes out of return hose valve is CC(correct for JD 3020) but if oil comes out valve is OC. Some valves are built to accept a CC conversion plug. Notice CC conversion plug in lower RH corner of photo.

Surplus Center is one place to get hyd components.

28955.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 04:02:13 10/15/15)
/quote]

Thank you for the quick reply. Can I leave the hyd inlet line on the rear hydraulic port to and remove the return line from rear hyd port to do this or do I need to connect the supply line behind the brake?
 

You can test valve to determine CC or OC while it's attached to breakaway coupler as long as you remove male hyd tip from return hose. Air pressure can also be utilized to test valve similar to oil pressure.
 
(quoted from post at 05:17:08 10/15/15)
You can test valve to determine CC or OC while it's attached to breakaway coupler as long as you remove male hyd tip from return hose. Air pressure can also be utilized to test valve similar to oil pressure.

OK I went down to the tractor. I took the supply and return lines off of the valve and blew into the inlet with my compressor. Air does travel through it. So that makes it open center correct? Now the loader valve is a gresen 2712 and the looks to be a y after 2712. I am going to look to see if there is a closed center plug. Unless you happen to know the part number.
 
So I think I found the plug, From what I can find so far the plug is a Gresen K-20-C. Still trying to verify that. I found one place that has it. Its about $15 plus shipping. They have a few others listed for $50 but I cant tell a difference( K-SP-C and K-20-SC) If I order it, where does it go?

As I am reading on this I am questioning just getting a different valve all together, that way I know I can get parts for it. I was looking at a prince valve here http://www.surpluscenter.com/Brands/Prince-Mfg/2-SPOOL-25-GPM-PRINCE-RD522CCAA5A4B1-OC-VALVE-9-6702.axd along with the closed center plug. My question on that is it appears the handles/levers are upside down to the way I would need them to mount on my tractor in reference to the work ports. Can these be flipped over pretty easily?
 
(quoted from post at 08:55:20 10/15/15)
I contacted Parker Gresen to find out. They have one guy there that deals with Gresen and giving him the casting number 2712 Y. He was able to tell me that the valve is an SP Valve. He gave me part number 08650133 which crosses to the K-SP-C kit on Motion Industries. I am going to see if somebody locally has it.
 

Of course not, Nobody has it in stock it has to be ordered and supply is limited as this unit is discontinued. It would be end of next week before I could get it.

So a few more questions before I place the order and I really do appreciate you guys helping out a newbie on this:

1. I was reading that some of these have a pressure relief valve and some dont. How do I be sure I have one and which way does it need adjusted? I am going to take pictures of the valve later today.

2. Does this valve have load checks? Do I need to add them?

3. Should I just bite the bullet and buy a new valve like the prince I mentioned before since support for this one is almost gone?

4. Again I will have pictures of it later but my valve is mounted on a piece coming off of the loader on the RH side. What is the benefit of the joystick style remotes? Just being able to control everything with one stick? Is there any drawbacks to it?
 

If FEL control valve has a pressure relief valve I recommend to tighten it closed as it's not needed for CC hyd system. If it were my tractor I'd just spring for a new FEL control valve setup for closed center system.
 
Well I got the change over done, it works. However I am going to replace the FEL control valve. At Idle (not using the loader) the valve is screaming, so I assume fluid is leaking by a valve internally. Once I move one of the levers the sound goes away. I double checked the seating of the O-Rings on the closed center plug and everything appears to be seated properly. I know this control valve is discontinued with limited parts available so I am just going to switch it out. I thought I would give it a try but its not worth messing with

I was going to go with the joystick style but I would have to make a new mounting bracket, reroute or possibly replace my hoses, etc so I am just going to go with the two lever set up.

I am looking at two different loader control valve, both manufactured by Prince, One is RD522CCAA5A4B1 4 way, 3 position two spool available here http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_7261_7261. and the other is RD522GCGA5A4B1 With one standard 4-way port and one float available here http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_7261_7261.

Here is the spec sheet for stats. http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/valves/ValvesRD5000.pdf.

The first one I have to order, the second one with float I can get locally. However, what is the benefit/drawback of the float? Would I put the float on the bucket or the lift portion? Your advise will be appreciated as usual.
 
Thank you Jim,

I'm being impatient again. I can get the other valve locally and get this thing right today but I would really like the joystick style control I think. But the fear of having to redo all of my lines is what is scaring me off of it. Making a new bracket really isn't so bad. It would require some welding etc to make a bolt on bracket and avoid my battery box. I am looking at three joystick controls right now.
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydrau...oystick-Valves/?page_no=1&fq=ATR_Spools:2

The first one is the one you already recommended and I like the price.

The 14GPM one probably would require less chance of having to replace hoses due to the port locations. Of course it is the most expensive as well.

And the last one is just another option with NPT ports. I think my current hoses are NPT, would have to go to the tractor to be sure.

I know I talk a lot and ask a lot of questions but I've got a lot to learn. Given the options what would you do, go with a joystick and wait for arrival or get the lever type to fix it today?
 

I'm an idiot, as I was waiting for the local hydraulic supply place to call me back on some valve availability, I decided to start editing the videos I took of this switch over. In the process I watched me adjusting the pressure relief the wrong way. I guess I had a brain fart at the time, should have had a V8. So I jumped in the truck and went back to the tractor, screwed the pressure relief the other way and no more screaming sound, everything works great. Actually the loader seems to have more power than it did before.

I still think I will fab a new mount for a joystick style control and get one near the summer.

Now I am going to find a local place hopefully to repack or replace my bucket cylinders as they leak a bit.

Again thank you all for the assistance, I will post some pictures of the whole job later and a link to the instructables.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top