1936 John Deere B crank slop left to right

Troy211

New User
I have a 1936 John Deere B and noticed on the main crank I have about a 1/4 inch slop left to right. Each piston rod has about an 1/8 of an inch. Is this a problem? How do you eliminate the slop at each of the three locations? One for each piston and the slop from the crank start all the way across to the clutch?

Thank You,

Troy
 
You need to loosen your flywheel, have someone help you put pressure on the clutch side and then retighten the flywheel.
 
Buster forgot to tell you that after you loosen the flywheel, you need to tap it towards the clutch so you have .005-.010 endplay. Then retighten the flywheel.
 

Buster Thank You,

I had a video on tearing apart and putting together a John Deere B. I a way they confirmed exactly what you said. I appreciate it. They mentioned about 20 thousandths play. I am going to try that tomorrow after I try something. I notice if I hold the clutch in it removes all play. I am going to see if this helps with the tractor shaking. The fenders are right but they rattle. No matter what I am tightening the play just want to see if this fixes the rattle as well.

Any suggestions on a shaking tractor I will take. It seems everything else is tight.
 
You don't remove slop from all three locations, all you can do is move the flywheel to the right on the crankshaft and get back to .015 end play clearance there that you should have. This is done by loosening the flywheel bolts enough to slide the flywheel over on the crankshaft and then tighten the two clamp bolts back up good and tight. It may need new bolts since this much end play is not a good thing, you may have issues with a flywheel that won't clamp hard enough to the crank to prevent it walking around there. Some slop at the connecting rods is built in, running it with 1/4 end play may have 'made' much more slop than you had new. Live with it or replace your rods is about the only choices you have there, but I would check new rod dimensions to ensure that this move will result in any actual benefits to you first. In my opinion, 1/8 of an inch at the rods is not a problem, much more important is crankshaft end play where 1/8 inch or more is never good.

If you'll engage the clutch handle and never pull hard enough to disengage the clutch during this process, you can use the clutch handle to move the crankshaft left or right as you need it. Not having a dial indicator to set the end play to exactly .010 - .015 isn't exactly needed, you can usually set it as tight as you can and after tightening the flywheel bolts, if the engine turns over easily you are probably good enough on end play. Certainly much better than 1/4 inch.
 
005 to 010 end play is correct, but the shaking is likely ether the flywheel or the clutch driving disk are out of time the flywheel and crank are marked with > < that face each other the drive dick has a rivet in it that fits in a cut out spline. some guys take the rivet out and then can get it out of time
 
Was able to tighten the fly wheel vary easily. Used a strap around the clutch and flywheel and pulled them together. It appears after driving it all day it did come loose again. I am going to pull the bolts and see what needs to happen. I don't know that it fixed everything. I also adjusted the carburetor points more specifically the idler. The tractor seems to be running better.

I will open another post but also add it here. I want to change the brake pads but the only thing I find on it is remove a nut well I don't have a nut instead I have two holes on either side of the grease zert. I am assuming I need a special wrench to fit those holes to take the cover off.

Thank you all for your help.
 
Sorry, it's a little more involved than just removing the cover and it doesn't come off like you are thinking anyway.

Three bolts hold the entire brake assembly to the main case, these come out and the brake assembly can then be pulled away from the case. At the end of the long shaft going on inside you will find a big nut and cotter key. Remove and pull shaft with cover away from the rest of the brake assembly. Best if you can turn the adjusting screw out as far as it will go to allow for clearance between shoes and drum - I had to use red heat just to get my adjusters to move.
 
That is exactly what I was looking for. I saw a video and new to pull the brake off the case but didn't see an outside nut. Now that you tell me it is inside I will pull the three bolts. Thank you for the tip on backing off the tensioner. I am fortunate in mine still move so that shouldn't be a big deal.

Thank You,
 

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