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John Deere 435 D

D

DLH_Woodstock

Member
Hey Guys
I am looking at buying a 435 D and my questions are!
#1 what's the value of these tractors?
#2 can I get parts for it?
#3 it spins over slow (and I am having the starter rebuilt because it's shot) so it did not start. I do know it ran and cut 10 acres 18 months ago.
#4 I don't see any brake parts and I'm sure the right brake has a problem. Where's the best place to look?
#5 any suggestion or things I should look at or for before I commit to buying her?

Thanks
David
 

b&d
Next time you're going to be absent from YT for several days you need to appoint someone to post that elusive JD 800 phone number that you think so many posters need!!!!!! :twisted:
Jim
 

I have had a change in aliannces . Will soon post sources for manuals from mom and pop businesses.
The parts manual is still free on the JD web site.
 


Any options ? Condition ? Is the nose peice which is made from Unatainium still intact? Your intended use for the tractor ?
 

I have had a change in aliannces . Will soon post sources for manuals from mom and pop businesses. .[/quote]

What created your change of alliance? Surely your wife hasn't given an OK for you to buy a new JD tractor and the new tractor has a major problem??????????????? :wink:
 

I am going to use the tractor for food plots. We have about 6 acres and we keep using my friends tractor to bush-hog, plow and plant. We want to do 15 acres but I don't want to take advantage of my friend equipment. This is a smaller tractor and I thought I would try it and if it doesn't work well I could always sell it and buy bigger. It needs to pull a 6' harrow 5' bush-hog, a 7 shank all purpose plow and 10' grain drill. If I know what it is worth and what I can do with it that would be a great help to me. It may be something someone would like to restore. It's a single owner at this point. I still have not bought it. I am waiting on the starter to be rebuilt and then I try starting it.

Thanks
David
 
We have owned our 435 since 1961. Mainly used for mowing with finish, rotary and flail mowers and also grading with a rear blade. We love the tractor and use it every week, but we grew up around GM 2-stroke diesels in everything from Allis bulldozers, GMC trucks and stationary power units. It seems like people either love them or hate them.
 
(quoted from post at 12:14:37 09/27/15)
I have had a change in aliannces . Will soon post sources for manuals from mom and pop businesses. .
Click to expand...

What created your change of alliance? Surely your wife hasn't given an OK for you to buy a new JD tractor and the new tractor has a major problem??????????????? :wink:[/quote]

Jim . Just because you can do what you want at home and that I have to do what I am told to do. That is a mean slam when I want a new tractor .
This year she got a new washer , dryer, deck , a bathroom wall replaced to make room for the counter top with two sinks. Looks like 2WD in snow again this winter .
 
(quoted from post at 02:32:25 10/02/15) We have owned our 435 since 1961. Mainly used for mowing with finish, rotary and flail mowers and also grading with a rear blade. We love the tractor and use it every week, but we grew up around GM 2-stroke diesels in everything from Allis bulldozers, GMC trucks and stationary power units. It seems like people either love them or hate them.
Click to expand...

Hey Alkay, and you other Guys
I guess you will put me in the love them side! I bought the tractor on Wednesday and moved it to the hunting property today. I have been working on this tractor off and on for two months. It is very slow to start on the cool morning but I have read that normal. Thank to you Guys! It runs great and pulls okay. I bush hogged an acre and checked the temps on all moving parts and all gears and housings were cool to the touch.

I had the starter rebuilt and the battery is okay.
First question: How long can or should I turn the starter before letting it rest? I am guessing I was turning it for over a minute to two minutes at a time.
Second: I ordered a magnetic block heater today along with the correct muffler and the parts and repair manuals. Where on the engine should I place the heater?
Third: I am missing the panel at the front left (the one that should read 435) and I can't seem to find one. is it important to have it and/or where would I look to find one if I needed it.
Forth: This thing doesn't have a tachometer or hour meter , does yours? I would like to put one on it but not sure I can.
Fifth: brakes don't work! One pedal has no resistance the other is hard as a rock. I have not pulled it apart yet but I can't find any brake shoes or pads. The only thing I see on line is a tool to rivet them. What am I getting into? I want to take it apart but the manual what be here until Monday week.
Lastly: The lift seem to be weak. I was lifting up a harrow (probably about 400#) and I had to get off and help it. I was only lifting an additional 50# at best when it came on up and held. How much can you lift with your boom pole?

Thank you in advance.
David
 
(quoted from post at 18:07:47 10/23/15)
(quoted from post at 02:32:25 10/02/15) We have owned our 435 since 1961. Mainly used for mowing with finish, rotary and flail mowers and also grading with a rear blade. We love the tractor and use it every week, but we grew up around GM 2-stroke diesels in everything from Allis bulldozers, GMC trucks and stationary power units. It seems like people either love them or hate them.
Click to expand...

Hey Alkay, and you other Guys
I guess you will put me in the love them side! I bought the tractor on Wednesday and moved it to the hunting property today. I have been working on this tractor off and on for two months. It is very slow to start on the cool morning but I have read that normal. Thank to you Guys! It runs great and pulls okay. I bush hogged an acre and checked the temps on all moving parts and all gears and housings were cool to the touch.

I had the starter rebuilt and the battery is okay.
First question: How long can or should I turn the starter before letting it rest? I am guessing I was turning it for over a minute to two minutes at a time.
Second: I ordered a magnetic block heater today along with the correct muffler and the parts and repair manuals. Where on the engine should I place the heater?
Third: I am missing the panel at the front left (the one that should read 435) and I can't seem to find one. is it important to have it and/or where would I look to find one if I needed it.
Forth: This thing doesn't have a tachometer or hour meter , does yours? I would like to put one on it but not sure I can.
Fifth: brakes don't work! One pedal has no resistance the other is hard as a rock. I have not pulled it apart yet but I can't find any brake shoes or pads. The only thing I see on line is a tool to rivet them. What am I getting into? I want to take it apart but the manual what be here until Monday week.
Lastly: The lift seem to be weak. I was lifting up a harrow (probably about 400#) and I had to get off and help it. I was only lifting an additional 50# at best when it came on up and held. How much can you lift with your boom pole?

Thank you in advance.
David
Click to expand...

You won't get very far without using a parts book. Free on the JD web site. The diagram shows how to assemble the brakes. Even if the disks are only half worn out. They will be hard and glazed.

Magnetic heater of 200-300Watt on the outside will be of little use .
There is are 500W to 750W immersion heaters that bolt into the block above the hydraulic pump.
Install the oval muffler from Deere or the 435 will make more noise than power.
Was the belt slipping on the hydraulic pump?
 

It will never start worth a darn with the factory 17 to 1 "S" series piston/sleeve set and the low pressure S series piddle injectors.
N series sleeve/pistons and C40 injectors . Won't believe it's the same tractor .
 
(quoted from post at 08:39:43 10/24/15)
It will never start worth a darn with the factory 17 to 1 "S" series piston/sleeve set and the low pressure S series piddle injectors.
N series sleeve/pistons and C40 injectors . Won't believe it's the same tractor .
Click to expand...
 
I am sorry for the long delay but I am back at it again working with and on the 435D. I didn't get to work with it much over the past few months.

Buickanddeere you are so right the shoes were glazed and oil soaked. You were right again, the block heater is useless and did not help at all. Can you give me more information on the 700 watt block heater? As in brand or where to find the right one? The belt was not slipping, I just needed to rev up the engine higher. It's working great at this point.

The injectors are a problem I believe at this point I am going to order two of them and install them in the near future. Do I just look for a 53 series Detroit diesel C40 injector or is there more I need to look at when ordering them?

The tractor is running on one cylinder for two to three minutes before the second cylinder kicks in and smooths out everything. I plowed 7 acres this past weekend and she runs great after warming up. Left rear wheel started making noise so we shut her down and I hope to pull the wheel off tomorrow, rain permitting.
 

Update time with questions!
The seals and bearing I ordered came in so I pull off the left rear wheel. I heard a lot of noise and I was sure I had a wheel bearing that was locking up. Well it's much worse than I thought. The wheel bearing is not there and only the race and cone present. Axle has 1/8 to 3/16 groves where the seal should have been. JD does not have and cannot get an axle (T 18205 T or Quill 12H 293 A) and I need one. I am looking for a good used one now or I need to weld it and machine it back down.

Have any of you run into this or know what I should do. I haven't gotten it apart yet because I broke my big ratchet on the 2 1/4 nut that holds the hub on. I have the tractor set up so I can pull the finial drive and pull the axle out and clean everything.

Anyone know any tricks or tips to doing this job?

I am going out of country until the 22nd so I'm not in a big hurry but I need to know where to order parts and or how to go about finding and fixing this problem.

Thanks Guys for the help.

David
 

The rowcrop utility/ "W" chassis was the most common 420/430 chassis. Find a "W" donor 420 slant steer after serial # 125,001 or a "W" 430.
 
(quoted from post at 14:43:50 03/08/16)
The rowcrop utility/ "W" chassis was the most common 420/430 chassis. Find a "W" donor 420 slant steer after serial # 125,001 or a "W" 430.
Click to expand...

Thank you for all your help!
How would I start looking for a donor? is there a place on here to post that I'm looking for one? Sorry I am new to this old tractor stuff. I looked last night through 20 pages of post but I found nothing but front axle stuff on the 435. I didn't look for a 420-430. It looks like the axle I need is a T 18205 T so I am guessing it is the same part number in the 420-430. Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks
David
Flying out tomorrow night so If I don't get back to you tomorrow I will as soon as I can.
 
(quoted from post at 00:47:06 03/09/16)
(quoted from post at 14:43:50 03/08/16)
The rowcrop utility/ "W" chassis was the most common 420/430 chassis. Find a "W" donor 420 slant steer after serial # 125,001 or a "W" 430.
Click to expand...

Thank you for all your help!
How would I start looking for a donor? is there a place on here to post that I'm looking for one? Sorry I am new to this old tractor stuff. I looked last night through 20 pages of post but I found nothing but front axle stuff on the 435. I didn't look for a 420-430. It looks like the axle I need is a T 18205 T so I am guessing it is the same part number in the 420-430. Any and all help is appreciated.
Thanks
David
Flying out tomorrow night so If I don't get back to you tomorrow I will as soon as I can.
Click to expand...

There are even some parts common to the 435 used on the 1010. Mostly from the gearshift on back. Lucked out a on dual rocksaft and a SCV for my 435 from an el-cheapo scrap 1010.
 
buickanddeere is correct, the 1010 shares the same axle/quill as the 435/1010 per the books, final drive assembly's. The original axle # 25 on the diagram, is T18205 T, has been super seceded to M 3151 T and the part # you gave for the quill is wrong. It is # 18 on the parts diagram and original M 1001 is now AM 972 T. Neither of these parts are available from JD, so you will have to find them from a tractor salvage yard, their are plenty of them out their to choose from. Parts from the 1010 may be easier to find than the 435. As always no grantee on this information being 100% correct so please verify before ordering parts.. :wink: :wink:
 

Thank you Jo Bird for the reply and the help.

I was able to find an axle and will be putting it in this weekend. I had a hard time finding it because I not the best with computers. But that's another story! Took it apart on Saturday and had to take the axle to a friends shop to pull off the 2 1/4" nut. I had the socket but I broke my ratchet trying to get it off. We had to use my 3/4 impact and heat to get it off. Then we put the axle / hub into a 20 ton press and still had to put some heat on the hub before it would pop. My bearings and seals are here and all parts are pressure washed and ready for reassembly.

Thank you all for all your help and guidance in this process.
David
 

Thank you buickanddeere
Speaking of "rockshaft" I have a small leak in the drivers left side of mine and I ordered the retainer and seal for it. But when I looked at it this past weekend I have no idea how to change it. Do you just dig it out with a pick or drill into the retainer and pull it out. Or is it necessary to remove the shaft?
Looks to be deep inside there.

Thanks
David
 
(quoted from post at 13:49:24 03/30/16)
Thank you buickanddeere
Speaking of "rockshaft" I have a small leak in the drivers left side of mine and I ordered the retainer and seal for it. But when I looked at it this past weekend I have no idea how to change it. Do you just dig it out with a pick or drill into the retainer and pull it out. Or is it necessary to remove the shaft?
Looks to be deep inside there.

Thanks
David
Click to expand...

The rockshaft on those Dubuques is not for the faint of heart. The service manual dedicates 23 pages of text, illustrations and images to the various hydraulic rockshafts etc.
Later 330's, 430's, 435's and 440's used the same cast housing. However the housing was machined for a replaceable bushing and a different seal.
Earlier tractors just rubbed the rockshaft's "shaft" on the bare cast housing. After a while both the shaft wore and the housing became "egg" shaped.
No amount of new seals will hold back oil if the later bushings are worn or the earlier housing is worn.
We will have to find out the serial number of the 435 and verify the rockshaft assembly has not been swapped out in the past 55 years. To know what we are dealing with.
 

Joy Joy sounds like no fun at all!
The serial # is 435763
It is a slow drip but I would like to fix it. It may be something I need to wait on but I hope not.

Thanks
 

Early with the shaft rotating directly on the cast housing. It's maybe possible that the wear is minimal and the seal is just failing from old age ?
 

So can I change the seal from the outside or does it require me taking it all the way down.
It looks like it deep in a hole. Maybe 3/8 to 1/2 from the outside lip. With the amount it leaking (which is very little at this point) I may try putting the new seal over the shaft and making it a double seal. If the diameter is the same all the way out.

Am I crazy to try this?

It felt tight but I will recheck it tomorrow when I get back to it. It's sitting on jack stands and nothing is attached to it at this point.
 

Well I tried but it didn't work! The Rockshaft I'm talking about, but I damaged the ring with of the seal when I put it in so that maybe why. May try that again at a later date. Don't think I can afford to fix it at this point.

As for the axle all went well. It was a big job but if I had to do it again it wouldn't be that bad. The hardest parts were the 2 1/4" nut and pressing the hub off the axle. A little heat and a 3/4 impact is a big help with the nut. A 20 ton press and heat for the hub got that apart.

I harrow for about 5 hour yesterday and other than oil leaks she ran great.

It is still very hard to start even in the warm weather! It is dumping way too much fuel into the cylinders and runs on one cylinder for two minutes or more before it stops spitting fuel out the exhaust. My next project is going to be change the injectors and adjust the valves. After that I'll go back to all the oil leaks. Too many to get into now.

I need to upload some pic's and I'll do that in the near future.

Thank you for all your help.
David

PS I would like to talk with you someday in the future.
 
(quoted from post at 21:07:55 04/15/16)
Well I tried but it didn't work! The Rockshaft I'm talking about, but I damaged the ring with of the seal when I put it in so that maybe why. May try that again at a later date. Don't think I can afford to fix it at this point.

As for the axle all went well. It was a big job but if I had to do it again it wouldn't be that bad. The hardest parts were the 2 1/4" nut and pressing the hub off the axle. A little heat and a 3/4 impact is a big help with the nut. A 20 ton press and heat for the hub got that apart.

I harrow for about 5 hour yesterday and other than oil leaks she ran great.

It is still very hard to start even in the warm weather! It is dumping way too much fuel into the cylinders and runs on one cylinder for two minutes or more before it stops spitting fuel out the exhaust. My next project is going to be change the injectors and adjust the valves. After that I'll go back to all the oil leaks. Too many to get into now.

I need to upload some pic's and I'll do that in the near future.

Thank you for all your help.
David

PS I would like to talk with you someday in the future.
Click to expand...

The 17 to 1 "S" series DD engine of that era was a lousy starter at the best of times. A group 31 battery, HD cables with the ground connected to a starter mounting bolt and a block heater . Are required when the temperature is below 50-60F.
The engine maybe bunged up with ash from the previous owner using four stroke motor oil. Instead of low ash two stroke SF-2 rated , straight weight motor oil.
"N" series updates will much improve the 2-53 DD. Mine will start without ether or block heater at 32F after half a dozen turns.
 
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