Water leakage and vibration

Navajo350

Member
On my unstyled A, I fired it up sounds good, but at high throttle the steering wheel and left tire vibrate like crazy.

Also it leaks water behind the water drain up high somewhere in the block or gasket or something and drips down that v taper to the water drain plug.

I just got this thing running. Finally got good oil pressure, but now these 2 problems. Does this tractor need to go back into the garage and rebuild the engine, or is there something I am over looking?

Thanks
 

BTW, I did go through the clutch and put the driver on right. I never did take the pulley off. The adjusting plate in the clutch has 2 dished holes drilled into one side, but I am not sure if that would make much difference. Maybe I'm wrong...
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Take the nut and washer off the clutch end of your crankshaft to see it the marks line up and also to see if your driver is loose. Check the flywheel side to see if the marks on your flywheel and crank is lined up. Both sides have to be in time. As far as your leak it could be a bad gasket . Keep a eye on the leak to try to pin point where its coming from and go from there.
 

I think the leak is coming from the head gasket someplace. I'll check again about the timing marks, but

When I timed the mag, the timing marks on the flywheel were right on...
 

Thought, Could it be leaking through the head gasket simce there might be a weak point there, it's weak because the water system is building up pressure and can't vent through the new rubber gasket/sealI put under the radiator cap?...
 

The little hole in the radiator cap is clear, I'm not sure.

When I ran it the last time a little bit a few weeks ago, it didn't leak. It started leaking this time not too long after I started. Plus, the only thing that changed since the last time for the coolant system, is that rubber radiator cap seal. It's a ring seal for the outer edges of the cap.
 

The clutch is lined up as shown below. It is a new driver. Maybe I should put the old one back on. I'm not sure how the new driver could be balanced well for a crank and flywheel that was never used to balance when machined...
 

Also, do you know where those dished holes on the clutch adjusting plate go? See first photo above. I replied a lot to your reply, bit if you could read all my statements and questions carefully to answer them it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
The two dished drill holes were done when the adjusting disk was made so that it would be balanced. Just the opposite of balancing a wheel by adding weights, the disk was balanced by removing weight.

Both the flywheel and the driving disk are unbalanced by themselves. When installed correctly on the crank the complete crank assembly, including the pistons, is a balanced unit.

Something isn't right in your photo of the driving disk and adjusting disk. It looks like the driving disk is installed outboard of the adjusting disk. The V mark on the driving doesn't line up with a mark on the crank that I can see.
 

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