governor question

36 A

Member
On my A the governor seems to strong for the spring . When the tractor is running it seems to labor to keep most rpm . When you unhook the carb and run it manually the rod is really strong. And another thing to make it idle I have to have the spring push the governor bar to push the carb to the set screw . This is hard to explain so hit me with some questions please . This is a 36 A on my other one it runs so free not bound up like the other tractor . Now the dumb part is it seems to run like this since I installed a heisler head and manifold . Any ideas
 
Have you adjusted the throttle link to the carb to be 1/2 hole short while holding the governor and carb throttle plate at wide open position with engine off? This is the standard adjustment although some changes in how the governor reacts can be had by a straight drop in or 3/4 hole short too.

Insure that carb throttle plate turns freely by itself as well as the governor arm, both should have 1 inch of travel more or less.

Do these basics and get back with any troubles found. New position of carb might be binding the throttle linkage, resolve any binding found anywhere. Pulling the throttle hand lever to force the governor spring against the governor arm to then push the carb throttle plate closed against 'stop' spring on the carb is how it's supposed to be, so sounds right to me.
 
I have no binding everything moves free and the rod was able to drop in . If I adjust it to half a hole it won't idle down . It idles fast Anyway , one thing I did notice was on the other tractor there is some free play between the spring and governor bar and there isn't on this tractor . It was getting dark so I quit . I'm gonna take the cover and look I in there again and look . Get the IT manual and see what that says .
 
Other one might have a bent or weak spring? I don't think there is supposed to be daylight between the spring and governor arm unless the throttle hand lever is calling for more RPM. Disconnect the other spring from the throttle hand lever linkage and see if it pulls up to the stop on the governor arm?

If you mean the left side bearing cover, don't forget to remove the mag first. There is a risk that the drive slots for the mag may become misaligned during inspections inside there and bolting the cover on can then bend the magneto input shaft such that it will break right in two some X hours down the road. This is why I'm running a cheaper to replace distributor these days...
 
Is the speed change spring perhaps on upside down? The eye or loop to which the speed control rod (the rear rod) connects should be to the REAR. If it's forward the rod between the governor arm and the carb can be correct and it may tend to run too fast!


Is it possible the adjusting screw in the carburetor lever assembly is simply too far in hitting the stop spring too hard?
 

I'm having governor issues as well on my '37 A. Mid throttle gives me 1100RPM. Check out my earlier post today labeled "Governor."...
 

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