Re: JD3020 Steering Motor Rebuild - tough job?

Grey

Member
the motor is part of the frame of the front end. you have to take the left frame rail off. It has bolts through the sides of motor to the front end and both frame rails.
 
You have all the bolts out to get that apart.There are 2 guide dowels that it needs to slide down. You can see the ends of them in your photo. Top and bottom of the photo. You need to put a couple of longer than you took out 1/2" bolts back in so when it breaks loose it doesn't hit you or the floor. Otherwise my suggestion is to soak the dowels from the top and tap the casting around them with a hammer. There is a spot where you can get a pry bar in around them. I just did a 4020 that was pretty persistent about not coming loose, just kept soaking, tapping and prying it finally came loose.
 
Grey, he can just drop out what he wants without messing with the frame rails. Just hope he marks the center section with the outer section or he will be dropping it again. It's "timed" you could say. Hopefully somebody didn't put to long of bolts in the center section, because it can mess up the sealing ring on the shaft. chris
 
(quoted from post at 23:37:59 07/31/15) Grey, he can just drop out what he wants without messing with the frame rails. chris

Piston cap or piston can't be removed to replace seals without removing one of the side frames but spindle seal can be replaced without removing side frame.
 
You are only doing a half a job if you don't fully remove the steering motor from the tractor. The headrest part is getting it in and out. Rebuilding it is simple.
 
You don't have to remove the steering motor.
As others have said you do have to remove a side rail
if you are ringing the pistons.
If you are only replacing the seal (external leak)you don't.
Align the timing marks first. Leave two opposing bolts backed
out or or install some longer ones. That thing is heavy.
There are notches to use a pry bar and sometimes they are very
difficult to remove. No puller just keep alternating sides with bar.
 
I made a puller for these,,and I can't find the picture right now, Darn it.. but you can bolt a heavy piece of bar stock to 2 of the large bolts and let it stick out past the frame to hit it with a large hammer,, be carefull prying on the sides,, the oil fittings are what line up to pry on,,and they won't take much of that..
 
Thanks everyone, you've confirmed my guess that I just need to keep prying and soaking. I sprayed it good with PB Blaster yesterday morning and left two opposing bolts in very loose (I just took them out for the picture to show they were all out). I'm always careful working under tractors. The center bolts haven't been put back in since I took off the steering arms, so I'll be careful not to put any bolts in farther. I have the timing marks lined up (bottom of the picture) and unhooked the hydraulic lines.

I plan to replace the bottom seal, and check for leaks before reattaching the axle. If that doesn't fix the leak, I'll pull the steering motor and be back for help from everyone. This isn't my tractor, I have 12 ('36 to '56) so power steering is new for me.
 
You really should go clear through it, one of the main reasons the lower seal leaks is because too much oil leaks past the steer piston seals..Doing Half a job is only half as good...
 
I'm comfortable removing the left frame side rail (I think I can do that without removing the loader) and pull the steering motor out. At that point, since I'm unfamiliar with the internal power steering motor, I'd need some directions on what to do to rebuild it. I couldn't find anything on the internet. If some of you could give me instructions, I trust your advice that it is a "piece of cake".
 
How big of a job is it to take out? I need to pull it out of my 4010 and 4020. I have not used the 4010 for about 4 years now and I
just do not seem to find the time to look at it.
 
It's best to do them in the tractor, I take the right side frame off to get to the bore plugs, Un-hook the 2 steer lines to relieve the pressure drop the pinion down out by removing the 6 bolts on the Quill, it will be tight so be careful when it come loose it's a handful and about a quart of oil will come with it. I will give you more details when your ready.
 
Ooh I see that you have it clear out,, looks like a rotisserie over a barbecue grill...do you see the timing marks on the under side?? 2 V's to time you left and right..
 
Guess I got confused..the one is out and that makes them easy to do,, but I never take them clear out like that..like the old timer said "Anything you don't need to take off,,you don't have to put back on"..
 
My helper for this job.
32193.jpg
 
He looks sleepy,, ha but I didn't mind taking this all out. It had been a while or never since it has been apart and it was time if only to un stick all the bolts, despite small size had to hit some with a 3/4 air gun.
 
Not really needed the seal has a rubber coating on it, I never use anything on them, and have not had a leakage issue.."But" you need to be sure the bolts are the correct length,, if they are a bit too long they tighten into the seal..then you will have a leak..
 

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