430s timing

i have a 430 and have had a lot of points problems so i recently got a pertronics ignition with a flame thrower coil. i put it all on and timed it by ear and it ran great for a while 15-20 minutes then it started losing power and got so bad it was almost gonna die and it was at full throttle. then at idle it was backfiring which it never really did before. i have played with the timing and the carb adjustments all evening and overtime i get it right on the high end it doesn't idle right and vice versa. any help. not sure how to technically time it as my light does not seem to work on 2 clys
 
Put a timing light on it. Full throttle you should see SPARK in the center of the timing window. Back it off to low idle and TC/DC should be close. If it ins't your dist advance will need attention.
 
"it ran great for a while 15-20 minutes then it started losing power"

For what logical reason would you believe that would be a timing issue?
 
im not saying that it is i just wanted to start there because i just put in a pertronics ignition and for some reason my timing light wouldn't work so i am not sure if its right
 
I don't think a timing light knows how many cylinders a motor has. Is your 430 6 Volts? That might be a dumb question since i had a 420.

However my timing light would only work on 12 volts. So I got my lawn tractor close enough in that I could use that 12 volt batt to power the light. It worked fine then.

Timing is as simple as M-Man put it.
 
after another session in the garage it appears i have to much play in my distributer teeth and as far as my timing light goes, i got a new one and it works but no matter if its idle or
full throttle its not consistantly spark or dc on either. it randomly bounces between them???
 
If it's bouncing around it's moving when it shoulden't. My guess is you have a advance spring or weight broken but it could be the bushings worn out, breaker plate loose or too long a screw or even a lug pin sheared. Don't think worn lobes would be a problem with an EI but??? You'll have to pull it and go through it all. Do make sure the rotor is snug when in place as well. BTW - the drive lug on the bottom is offset so make sure you mark it and put it back exactly like it is or you'll be 180 degrees off if you have to remove it.
 
agree
even if it's not broken, dirt/rust/debris in the advance mechanism will make the light bounce around.
turn your rotor, it should turn smoothly a bit and snap back when you let it go.
I just freed up a badly rusted stuck advance in a 420.
solvent/oil/picks/patience.
when freed, first start, light was a little erratic until all tiny grit had been spun out on the oil. Then I cleaned it again. all good.
 
I soaked it and cleaned with a toothbrush,moved all the weights freely but I cannot see the springs move at all when I turned the rotor. I put it back together no change. I guess I will fully disassemble to fix it better. i don't even think the rotor was tuning on the shaft, i didn't try hard because i was unsure of the way it worked but im pretty sure i know now
 
so ... i should be able to turn the rotor and see the springs move under the points plate and release and it should return?
 
update. I took it off and disassembled to find out that the rotor was seized the the shaft. got it free and have all the parts in rustbeeter now. looking forward to reasswmble and actually get it timed right. since ive had it it has not been good on gas and loses power when it gets warm. don't know if this was my only problem but its one! thanks for the help
 

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