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Purchased the 1020!

H

Hotflashjr

Well-known Member
Location
Western MA
Went last night to drive the 1020 I asked about earlier this week. Turns out it is a 1966 gas, power steering, mid pto. Dual stage clutch works just fine, 3 pt stays up great after shut off. I weigh in at 200 lbs and could not get it to budge with all my weight on it wit the tractor off. Lots of new parts on it and it ran and drove great. It has 2020 rubber/rims and rims on it which puts the rear end up a bit higher than stock. I got an original top link, wheel weights and enough hy-guard to change the trans fluid as part of the deal.

That's the good. The bad is fenders are rough, lights do not work, and the horizontal exahust has a leak at the manifold. After some looking it seems unless I can find a used manifold I may have to go to upright or find someone to repair the manifold.
a194478.jpg
 
Looks weird with those tires ! LOL.

I hope when you clean the trans. sump screen it is not like the 2550 one you showed us !

If the manifold is cracked ? and if solid they do weld up nice. I welded the one on my 4020 and LA. An AC welder with nickel rod welds them nice.
 
Kinda looks like a hot rod with the raised rear end. The tires are in good shape so until they need to be replaced it will stay like this.

The seller has all fresh fluids in the tractor and said the sump screen was clean of brake lining and metal shavings, just a bit of sludge. I am still going to change it and see for myself. The manifold cracked but a chunk fell out. It is on the backside right where the exhaust pipe meets the manifold. I was hoping it was just the exhaust pipe had rotted away. The 2440 spray tractor had this happen and that was a real easy and cheap fix for the down pipe. The small chunk that fell out is MIA of course so I am not sure if it can be fixed.
 
Look in a Fast Line magazine and you may fine a company that sell after market manifolds.
I found one a few years back that had them so I bought one for my 600 ford and 13 yrs later it is just as good as new and a lot cheaper then what Ford wanted for it. My 2 cents.
 
It needs fenders and I was thinkin the same thing on the front tires. Hopefully the season goes well and there's a little extra left at the end of the year.
 
A friend of mine who has a few 1020's on his farm also told me that was not a common option. He has owned 7 1020's over the years and only 1 had the rack & pinion axle and it was a very early 1966. The seller said this one was built June 3rd, 1966.
 
A piece of steel or cast could be welded in there to fill the hole. Build it up and grind to size.
 
Your tractor has the rear rubber off a 2020 HU or high utility,your tractor is a 1020 RU which is regular utility. If you like the rear tires you have now but want the tractor to set level find a pair of front axle knees and spindles off a 1020 or 2020 HU tractor. I always liked the looks of the HU 1020 and 2020 tractors as we had a 1020 HU for a few years.If interested I might know of set of knees and spindles. Tom
 
While it is unprofessional to ask what you wound up paying....I suppose you could share....did you leave enough to make the necessary adjustments or improvements on the tractor....proper tires and wheels....front end guard possibly....any extras....you were more than concerned about our opinion on value is why I mentioned...best with you purchase....please note the profile you have will change the sump supply of oil....
 
I would be interested in them. E-mail is open.

We ran the tractor a bunch yesterday and I think having it level would be nice but it would only be for aesthetics. It steered and drove great as is.
 
So the tractor is very much operable as is. I don't plan on changing the tires but if Tom has the parts I would consider changing the front ride height. This tractor is going to be used to farm with so only things necessary will get changed right away. We harrowed and ran the tractor yesterday and the only thing that needs to be fixed is the exhaust manifold. We paid $4k which I think is fair.
 
How hard is it to get those loose again? I'm
assuming they are froze up. I need to move each
side in two inches for it to fit on my trailer between
the fenders.
 

Apply abundant amount of your favorite penetrating oil to hubs. Loosen larger 3 bolis & tighten 2 smaller bolts then squarely hit end of axle several times with a sledge hammer to help jar wedges loose. Hitting end of axle was recommended by area JD service dept managers.
 
Already started with penetrating oil as soon as it got
home. Figured that was step 1. I've got the owners
and shop manual on the way. Thanks Jim!
 
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