4020 24V wiring

kwhite63

New User
Hello,

I'm sure this is posted sone where but I can't find it. I know that the early 24V systems are both positive and negative ground systems to get 24V at the starter. Is there a way too make it a 24V system with a negative ground so I can easily understand the wiring? Or would I have to switch everything to 12V right away? (I don't really have the money to make it a 12V right now).

The reason I am messing with the wiring is if I leave the tractor sit for 2 days the batteries drain and it won't start anymore and I tried understanding the wiring and it is confusing for a car guy who normally just deals with 12V negative ground systems.

Thank you,
Kyle
 
Trouble with converting the system to a straight 24 Volt system, grounded at one end, is that anytime there's a short or you accidentally spark something, you have enough voltage/current to WELD.

I would either clean up the system to stop the current drain or switch it to 12 Volts. After having converted an 830 to straight 14 Volts MANY years ago, I would never do that again.

Issues that cause current drain in those systems... brush carbon debris in the starter, conductive debris/moisture in the stater solenoid, generator, voltage regulator, "ignition"switch/light switch, etc., plus any other obvious corroded areas, just like a 6 or 12 Volt system
 

1st place to look for elect. drain is starter brush dust. I'd advise to pull starter end cap off and clean out dust.

Best solution to 24 V problem is to change elect. system over to 12 volts which can be accomplished on about $400
 
Okay how would one go about finding where the voltage is leaking? And how do you convert to a 12V system and whet and start parts would I need?
 
Also, the tops of the batteries need to be kept clean. Debris and moisture and battery acid conduct current to the metal battery box, and drain the batteries, as well.
 
Actually, the 24 volt 2 wire isolated from frame ground Starter and Generator are Floating and NOT Positive or Negative ground. Their windings (Unlike a 12 volt) DO NOT use frame ground as a return and are NOT connected to frame ground. Its some of the 12 volt devices that utilize frame ground, some of which are powered by one battery, the POS grounded, and others by the other 12 volt battery, which is NEG grounded, but the 2 wire 24 volt devices are NON grounded and floating.

I would NOT try to use the 24 volt system grounded, but rather convert to the more standard 12 volt.

I agree with Bob and Jim, I have seen copper brush dust accumulate in the starters that causes a short and a dead battery.

John T
 
Guys are exactly right below. I've done this on many 24v starters! If you do as Jim says you'll likely solve your problem. I'm guessing it's your right side battery that keeps going dead right?

If YES, here is one word of caution.........

The right side battery is connnected to the side post of the starter. Being connected to that post, this battery KEEPS THE INNARDS OF THE STARTER hot at all times! YES,,, at ALL TIMES! SO.... for that reason you BETTER remove the cable from that right battery before opening the starter! Not doing so is jsut asking to let some smopke outta something!

Once DEAD, opening the starter & cleaning it out 99 times out of a hundred eliminates the layer of copper/carbon dust that is all over the starter's innards from the normal wearing of the brushes. This dust layer is a circuit path to the frame of the starter from the always hot internal starter wiring. It is this "dirt" path that steals current from the right battery until it is dead and cannot start the tractor in a day or two.

As a couple day experiment, if you KNOW the batteries are fully charged and you are shutting it down for a few days, immediately remove one of the cables from the right battery. You'll likely be able to come back in a couple days, re-install that cable & have it start right up. A cheap & easy (though a bit time consuming) test.

If it does start, it's almost proof positive yer starter's dirty innards are the problem!

Hope that helps.

Later.
 
(quoted from post at 15:10:05 06/02/15)
As I previously stated 1st & easiest thing to do is remove 24 volt starter end cap and blow,vacuum brush dust out of starter

I have a question about this. When you remove this end cap (1) do you have to remove the starter from the tractor? (2) Are there any springs bearing or other important stuff that will fall out ? (3) are there any special tools required?
 

Brush dust can be cleaned out with starter attached to engine. I'd suggest to disconnect batteries. Remove the 2 bolts holding end cap then remove end cap. Nothing to fall out as brushes & springs are attached to round starter housing.
 
(quoted from post at 11:50:06 06/02/15) Okay how would one go about finding where the voltage is leaking? And how do you convert to a 12V system and whet and start parts would I need?

If you call us at Green Magazine for $3 we'll send you a copy of an excellent article Dan Brotzman did some years back on converting to an alternator.

Also go toeBay and search "Deere 12 volt conversion" and you'll find a couple of different kits which include the starter, alternator and miscellaneous parts. Prices range from $350 to $550. I have no idea about the quality of the parts but the price seems reasonable.
 
Okay well I cleaned the starter and now I will wait a couple days to see what happens.

I would like to convert it to a 12 V system still and have looked at kits and everything but feel I can piece one together cheaper. What i am wondering is if there is anything specifically I need to change on the tractors wiring. I know I will need to make it a negative ground system but is there anything else? Very thorough details would be appreciated.

Thank you for all the help!!
 
Toss the 24 volt starter and generator in the scrap barrel and switch it out to 12 volt and your life will be better, I use an Iskra starter that you can get from most starter shops and a delco one wire alternator.. mail me and I will help you sort it out,,too much to type...and it's not much of a job to do...
 

I agree with Tim, I finally did it on my 4010 two years ago, which was about 40 years too late. I would bet that when it was one of the main tractors on the farm, I had either the starter or the generator off every year.
 

John T My e-mail is open and I would like to pick your brain a bit about some 24 volt issues that would only be of interest to me. If you would be willing to let me Please send me an email so I can ask.
 

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