Problems adjusting wheel width on 60

I can't get the outer groove on the jackscrews flush with the hub as described in the manual . I can't get the pinion to move at all . I did adjust
these wheels about 15 years ago and I do not remember having any problems do you have any ideas thanks .

Loosen it all up and drive it a bit touching the brake lightly and it may break loose for you. I had same problem on a 720 and a 730. Loosen all six of the bolts.( Do Not Remove Them) If pinion is still stuck you will have to rotate the axel where the groves or down and then move it by hand.
Good Luck.

Sounds like a plan I'll give it a try tomorrow morning

When not frozen up, the pinion bolt will move end to end a little bit. I have soaked and pounded on them eventually getting them to move back and forth. Then when you get the wedges loose, the pinion should turn easily.

Take a look at the diagram below.





Note the pinion (Key 3), pinion half sleeve (Key 4), cast disk rear wheel (Key 6), and key half sleeve (Key 13).

This is one method of adjusting the wheel width when "[b:654c4848f0][i:654c4848f0]I can't get the pinion to move at all.[/i:654c4848f0][/b:654c4848f0]"

First get the wedges loose as mentioned below.

Take a look at the photos below.





Raise the rear wheel axle and rotate the tire/wheel/cast center so that the key half sleeve is on top.



Remove the key half sleeve.

If the tire/wheel/cast center does not come loose from the rear axle shaft, then apply your favorite penetrate and lightly tap the pinion half sleeve with a small sledge hammer.

Once the tire/wheel/cast center comes loose from the rear axle shaft, then clean the rear axle shaft, both pinion sleeves, and the pinion.







Presuming the rear axle shaft, both pinion sleeves, and the pinion are clean, rotate the rear axle shaft so that the "grooves" are on top.

Turn the pinion to move the tire/wheel/cast center to the desired position.

If the pinion does not turn, then, using a pry bar, lift the tire/wheel/cast center and push it over to the desired position.





Replace the key half sleeve and tighten all the bolts.

This method has been used to adjust the wheel width on all four of our Model 70 tractors.

Hope this helps.

I just moved the rears on a 4020 that the pinion was stuck. I soaked it with PB Blaster for several days , I had the wheel sideways so that I could fill the hole opposite the hex head. Then I put the lug wrench that deere sent with some of the tractors and pounded on it with a 10lb sledge hammer, got the wheel cranked off the axle then cleaned it all up like James Howell says and got the pinion moving very freely before I put it back together. Oh and yes I got big bolts loose and screwed the jack bolts in which didn't move the sleeve at all so I went and did donuts in the yard slamming on the brakes and popping the clutch, yes they do come loose.

Some times you need to drive the pinion bolt out and clean it up lube it an put it back in, the bolt is what normally is stuck not the gear.

Thanks for that in-depth description I may have to try that because so far driving around tapping the brakes with all the bolts loose hasn't worked out . Did you use a punch centered on the half sleeve in order to punch it loose .

This is one method of loosening/removing the half key sleeve (wheel hub).

Raise the rear wheel axle and rotate the tire/wheel/cast center so that the key half sleeve is on bottom.

Take a look at the photo below of the three, special plated bolts (cap screws).



Remove all three bolts, rotate the tire/wheel/cast center, and apply your favorite penetrate in the indicated spots.



Apply your favorite penetrate on the other side of the key half sleeve in the indicated spots.





The penetrate used on all our tractors is a 50/50 mix of acetone and automatic transmission fluid.

After applying penetrate on both sides, use a small, 10 pound hammer to "lightly" tap both half sleeves on the back side of the tire/wheel/cast center.

Rotate the tire/wheel/cast center 180^o, apply your favorite penetrate, and "lightly" tap both half sleeves again.

Take a look at the photo below of the jack screws.



Note the mushroomed head and thread wear; use a socket instead of a hammer on the jack screws.

Rotate the tire/wheel/cast center so that the key half sleeve is on bottom.

Insert two jack screws in the two holes between the cap screw holes.

You might consider tapping the threads in both holes before inserting the jack screws.



Rotate the tire/wheel/cast center so that the key half sleeve is on bottom.

Turn the jack screws clockwise until they are both tight.

Repeat: apply penetrate, "lightly" tap both half sleeves, rotate the tire/wheel/cast center 180^o, apply penetrate, and "lightly" tap both half sleeves again.

Repeat: rotate the tire/wheel/cast center so that the key half sleeve is on bottom.

Repeat: turn the jack screws clockwise until they are both tight.

Keep repeating the above steps until the key half sleeve comes loose.

You can check the grooves on the jack screws once it comes loose.





It may take a while to get it loose so be patient.

Hope this helps.

Okay so you're actually tapping on the jackscrews at some point to move apart the half key, I can't get my jackscrews turned in as Far as that they won't turn into that outer groove.

Never have used a hammer on the jack screws.

Take a look at the photo below:



Tap on this side of the key half sleeve because it has more surface area for the hammer to hit.

You can also tap on the axle and cast center, but the vibration will probably work best on the half sleeves.

Use a lot of penetrate to break the contact between the half sleeves and axle and cast center.

Hope this helps.

The Pinion need NOT move, to adjust the wheel width..

All you need to do is jack the wheel up and remove the Keyed half of Wedge, Rotate and slide the hub where ya want it..let the pinion slip back into the Rack and re-install the Wedge-Half..

Ron..