Some pics of my 7520. I have been adding some custom mods to it the last couple years. Someday I'll get it all painted up, but for now I'm just running it a bit here and there to check for bugs. I think it looks so much better than before.
Let me know if you like my additions.

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(quoted from post at 19:35:07 05/24/15) Yes,, I like it...

Glad you like it. Someday I'd like you to look at the steering valve. When I start it up, it wants to turn to the left. Will go all the way unless you counter-steer to stop it. Also, one direction, the steering is really smooth, the other direction is choppy. Other than that, it's mechanically very good. Somebody has beefed up the hinge right under the drive-lines. You probably didn't pick this up in the pics, but I added a handle on the right side of the cab. Could never climb up that side (no steps, no handle). So I thought I would do something about that lol.
 
(quoted from post at 20:05:42 05/24/15) That is one 'stroppy' looking unit. How many HP's do it have ?

I really don't know for sure. It's strong but not turned up a crazy amount. The landsmen in the pics is 25ft and does pull pretty hard. My 6030 can pull it in 5th gear in firm bean stubble ground. But if the ground has been worked, the 6030 just spins a lot. The 7520 pulls it just as well in firm or soft ground.
 
The 8000 series rear fenders look really nice on the back. I also bought a JD 7520 last summer and the steering is a little strange on it as well but runs great and after sitting 4 months it started almost immediately. Mine is one of the first 1975 models like the second one off the line they are really run to run and drive. I had one in the late 70's but we sold it it was just too loud in the cab but I pulled a 8-16 JD 2450 plow and it just played with it.
 
If sound is an issue (it was with these tractors) you might take it to an automotive upholstery shop and ask for a quote on adding sound absorbing materials and redoing the interior.
Diesel pickup trucks prompted a lot of new sound absorbing materials that were not on the market when these tractors were built.
A lot less work and expense than adding a sound guard cab and it will "look" original.
 
(quoted from post at 15:19:55 05/25/15) If sound is an issue (it was with these tractors) you might take it to an automotive upholstery shop and ask for a quote on adding sound absorbing materials and redoing the interior.
Diesel pickup trucks prompted a lot of new sound absorbing materials that were not on the market when these tractors were built.
A lot less work and expense than adding a sound guard cab and it will "look" original.

Not merely about sound. I mean I hardly use it anyway, but I did a sound-gard, that would be a neat project. Probably move the shifter to the side. Been tossing around adding a top plate from a 4620 and remote scv's versus the 4020 style valves. Doing the a/c would be a lot easier as well. So there are many upsides rather than just sound.
 
I like it! Those just look like they want to pull. There is a guy just east of me that still uses a 7020 to do the plowing. I like the look of the square cab, just seems to fit with the tractor. Sound guard would sure make it better to operate though.
 
(quoted from post at 19:29:51 05/25/15) I like it! Those just look like they want to pull. There is a guy just east of me that still uses a 7020 to do the plowing. I like the look of the square cab, just seems to fit with the tractor. Sound guard would sure make it better to operate though.

It does pull. I have noticed that if I get it wound up good, hardly anything will stop it. The insides have fluid and it doesn't spin. But on the flip side, if I back into a courner for instance and drop the tool before it has a chance to build rpm, it will fall flat on it's face. Have had to clutch it several times. Most tractors will lug a bit and then build rmp. Must be indicative of the 531 as my 6030s do the same thing. The 619 tractors seem to do better in that regard. Ran 8630s and 40s for years and if you could get the tool moving, you were good. Torque curve must be a lot higher on 531.
 
We ran a 7520 for 1 year back in the 80's, had an 8630 then too, we would draw straws to see who had to run the old 7520,,it got the job done but you couldn't hear yourself Fart at the end of the day...
 
I chisel plowed for my old landlord years ago. I'd work late nights on weekends running his 8440 pulling
his Glenco Soil Saver. Not sure how big the Soil Saver was, but at least two shanks too many! The tractor
had dualed up 23.1x34 tires and the chisel plow was just a bit wider than the tractor. Set around 200-220
HP and running in A range and 3rd gear was all the better she could do. If the tach wasn't reading 1500
rpm and accelerating when the chisels hit the ground she would bog down and stall if I let it. Couple times
one night where I had grass end rows on one clay hill I did a couple eight-wheel spin-outs when I dropped
the plow in the ground.
 
I remember back in the late 70's that we had our injection pump gone through up in Sun Prairie Wisconsin and they put a 8630 pump shaft in to increase the torque issue I think. Did make a big difference.
 
Ha-Ha... DIESEL INJECTION SERVICE. Wish I had a Penny for every injection pump they've rebuilt. At one time, probably one of the best pump shops in the whole country.
 
I remember back in the late 70's that we had our injection pump gone through up in Sun Prairie Wisconsin and they put a 8630 pump shaft in to increase the torque issue I think. Did make a big difference.
 
(quoted from post at 05:20:52 05/26/15) I remember back in the late 70's that we had our injection pump gone through up in Sun Prairie Wisconsin and they put a 8630 pump shaft in to increase the torque issue I think. Did make a big difference.

8850Dave,

Did they or you do any other mods to the pump or injectors or just put the 8630 pump shaft in? Just curious if doing that alone resulted in that large of a difference. I have a 7520 that i am hoping i can get away with just doing rings on and maybe at the same time bump the power up a bit.

thanks!
 

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