1940 John Deere B starting/stopping

johndeereguy2100 · May 20, 2015

This may seem like a silly question but I'm new to the antique tractor world so bear with me. I have a 1940 John Deere Model B and was wondering what is the correct way to stop the engine? I put it in neutral, put on the brakes, then hop down and turn the choke all the way down and essentially choke it out. Is this the correct way? Also I do not have the electrical package; but am I still supposed to have a choke rod so I can kill the engine without having to get off the tractor? Thanks guys!

davediehl@hotmail.com · May 20, 2015

Turn off fuel and allow it to run out. If that is too much to do, turn off fuel and switch off the mag.

jacksun65 · May 20, 2015

I had the carb adjusted so all I did was pull the throttle all the way down or better yet turned the gas off and let it run out of fuel .

johndeereguy2100 · May 20, 2015

The magneto does not have a switch on it to my knowledge. So for example; say i had to stop the tractor to pick up a few sticks in my way while mowing, I should completely turn off the gas to stop the tractor and then have to turn it back on in 5minutes to get it running again? Just seems like there should be an easier way to stop the engine.

RandyB(MI) · May 20, 2015

just idle it down all the way with lever and get off and take hold of the throttle where rod goes into it and force it closed that last little bit against the little spring and governor and it will stop.

johndeereguy2100 · May 20, 2015

Ok, that was my biggest concern (for lack of a better word) was if I was supposed to get off the tractor to stop it or if it was supposed to be able to be stopped from the seat.

55 50 Ron · May 20, 2015

for 5 minutes, just let it run! Transmission in neutral and engage the clutch.

johndeereguy2100 · May 20, 2015

haha ok that was a bad time frame example, I was mainly trying to get the point across that it wasn't going to be turned off for storage just for a short while and so it seemed silly to shut the gas valve completely off for that. However, I don't know that much about the antique side which is why I'm inquiring haha.

Paul from MI · May 20, 2015

Remember it was designed to run on distillate, and won't start well on distillate. So turn off the fuel, let it run out of fuel. Then drain the carb bowl, turn on the gasoline in the starting tank to fill the carb with gas. Since the cylinders are dry, having run out of fuel, the tractor will start on gasoline and can be turned to distillate when hot. That was the original procedure, but since you are running on gasoline other methods will work, such as stalling in high gear, choking(although that tends to dilute lube oil), adjusting the carb linkage. Later mags intended for gasoline had a connection that could be grounded to "kill" the ignition. The connection can be added to older magnetos.

James Howell · May 20, 2015

Reviewed the [b:654c4848f0]Instructions AND PARTS LIST FOR John Deere General Purpose Tractor[/b:654c4848f0] DIR. No. 257-7-40 under the [b:654c4848f0]STOPPING ENGINE[/b:654c4848f0] topic on page 6.

Take a look at the photo of page 6 of the above mentioned instructions manual.

Presuming that you do not start your tractor with distillate, just let the carburetor run out of gas.

That is the shut-down procedure used on "Uncle Earl" our 39B.

Hope this helps.

Mike M · May 21, 2015

I would add a terminal to the mag. (if you don't have one) and put one of those spring type shut off buttons on it.

DR. EVIL · May 21, 2015

The Armstrong start '40 B Dad had was such a pita to start that no
matter how long it was going to be till we needed it again that
same day, it was left idling.

When we were done with it for the day it was pulled in the shed,
idled down, both brakes applied and clutch engaged to stall the
engine. Then gas shut off before we walked away.

We tried to use it for most all of the farm work it was capable of
but the last year or two of the four years we had it, it just sat
in the shed at the other farm. It was too hard to start to run
daily, too slow to do things like haul feed or water to hog lots,
rake hay/straw, so it got used for only what we bought it for,
pull the JD R spreader thru the 6 ft wide aisle in the 100 ft long
hog house the couple times needed to clean the manure out by hand
once a year. If skid steer loaders had been invented then the $90
cash would never have been spent to buy it! I did clean it up and
repaint it the week before I took off to college as a Freshman.
That winter it brought $120 at Dad's auction. It was tied with
the R diesel Dad had for 4-5 months spring of '64 as my least
favorite tractor Dad had. Dad didn't even like them, the R or the
B. If we needed to run one of them he told me to run them, if he
had to do something with one of them, He'd unhook the JD and hook
a FARMALL to the implement.

Bobl1958 · May 21, 2015

When you are done using it, just shut the gas off and let it run out of gas. If you do that everytime, you will get a routine down on the easiest way to start it, everytime. Most of these old girls have a certain way to shut them off in an effort to start them back up easier, and if you do it the same every time, it sure aids in the amount of times you have to roll the flywheel over. Not so bad on a B, but a G or D takes some effort to roll over.

Although, it doesn't hurt to let them run for a little bit if you are just getting off to do something for a minute. A little B will run all day on a thimble full of fuel (slight exaggeration).

Just make sure if you get off, you put the transmission into neutral and engage the clutch so that it idles in neutral with the clutch engaged. Bob

johndeereguy2100 · May 21, 2015

(quoted from post at 21:10:56 05/20/15) Reviewed the [b:6d6fa446a6]Instructions AND PARTS LIST FOR John Deere General Purpose Tractor[/b:6d6fa446a6] DIR. No. 257-7-40 under the [b:6d6fa446a6]STOPPING ENGINE[/b:6d6fa446a6] topic on page 6.

Take a look at the photo of page 6 of the above mentioned instructions manual.

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a191919.jpg" width="650" />

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a191920.jpg" width="650" />

Presuming that you do not start your tractor with distillate, just let the carburetor run out of gas.

That is the shut-down procedure used on "Uncle Earl" our 39B.

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a191921.jpg" width="650" />

Hope this helps.

Awesome man! That is exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I'll be searching for a control rod since mine is long gone. I was wondering what exactly that hole was for on my dash. Do you or anyone else have a picture of how it connects to the fuel line/ reservoir? Thanks

James Howell · May 21, 2015

Take a look at the diagram below.

Note the fuel control rod (Key 22) [b:654c4848f0]B 1447 R[/b:654c4848f0], indexing stop (Key 21) [b:654c4848f0]B 1535 R[/b:654c4848f0], and three-way cock (Key 11) [b:654c4848f0]AB 1545 R[/b:654c4848f0].

These are the correct part numbers for your 1940 Model B.

Take a look at the photo below of how they are connected.

Hope this helps.

johndeereguy2100 · May 21, 2015

(quoted from post at 21:10:56 05/20/15) Reviewed the [b:a1b7ba6e5a]Instructions AND PARTS LIST FOR John Deere General Purpose Tractor[/b:a1b7ba6e5a] DIR. No. 257-7-40 under the [b:a1b7ba6e5a]STOPPING ENGINE[/b:a1b7ba6e5a] topic on page 6.

Take a look at the photo of page 6 of the above mentioned instructions manual.

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a191919.jpg" width="650" />

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a191920.jpg" width="650" />

Presuming that you do not start your tractor with distillate, just let the carburetor run out of gas.

That is the shut-down procedure used on "Uncle Earl" our 39B.

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a191921.jpg" width="650" />

Hope this helps.

Also, do you have a link or know where I could buy one of those Owners Manuals?

johndeereguy2100 · May 21, 2015

Here is how mine is set up. Can I assume someone has ditched the 3way connector and control rod. My small tank is not connected so I'm guessing when they unhooked the second tank, this is how it was put back together.

James Howell · May 22, 2015

Take a look at the diagram below.

Note the gasoline pipe (Key 9), three-way cock (Key 11), fuel pipe (Key 17), and fuel control rod (Key 22).

Based on your photo above, all four of these parts are missing.

Take a look at the photo below.

Hope this helps.

johndeereguy2100 · May 22, 2015

(quoted from post at 05:54:59 05/22/15) Take a look at the diagram below.

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a191992.jpg" width="650" />

Note the gasoline pipe (Key 9), three-way cock (Key 11), fuel pipe (Key 17), and fuel control rod (Key 22).

Based on your photo above, all four of these parts are missing.

Take a look at the photo below.

<img src="http://photos.yesterdaystractors.com/gallery/uptest/a191994.jpg" width="650" />

Hope this helps.

thanks again man, looks like ill be searching for some new parts

James Howell · May 22, 2015

Please make sure you get the correct parts mentioned in my reply below.

The 39 and 40 Model B have some "unique" parts.

johndeereguy2100 · May 22, 2015

(quoted from post at 13:38:07 05/22/15) Please make sure you get the correct parts mentioned in my reply below.

The 39 and 40 Model B have some "unique" parts.

Yeah I have the parts manual, and have my serial number to make sure I get the right ones. Plus the place I've ordered parts from before has them labeled the same way as the manual (ie 2751R). Definitely don't want to screw up the fuel lines lol

johndeereguy2100 · May 22, 2015

So, kinda feeling like a complete idiot but just for good measure I rechecked my serial number tag and its a good thing I did. I cleaned it up again, and I missed some numbers and mistook the B for an 8. I attached a pic but it looks like my serial number is B 148664; which I believe makes it a 1943 or 1944.

So a little off but luckily my other parts were universal for the years. I also read that tractors for my (correct) year that had starters had a straight dash. Mine is straight but there is no starter, battery, or any remnants of either.

One last question, what type of Magneto is mine?

James Howell · May 23, 2015

Based on <a href="http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/snlookup.cgi?mf=JD&md=B+-+Styled">the serial number of your tractor 148664</a>, it is a 1943 Model B.

This changes the part number of the fuel control rod (Key 22) to [b:654c4848f0]B 1900 R[/b:654c4848f0], indexing stop (Key 21) to [b:654c4848f0]B 1901 R[/b:654c4848f0], and three-way cock (Key 11) to [b:654c4848f0]AB 2805 R[/b:654c4848f0].

The gasoline pipe (Key 9) [b:654c4848f0]AB 1771 R[/b:654c4848f0] and fuel pipe (Key 17) [b:654c4848f0]AB 2751 R[/b:654c4848f0] remain unchanged.

These are the correct part numbers for your 1943 Model B.

The Model B hand-start tractors are sometimes referred to as a "short hood" B.

Take a look at the diagram below.

Note the distributor cap (Key 51).

Based on your photo above, the magneto on your tractor is a Wico X.

Take a look at "John B" our 1943 Model B.

It has been "farmerized" with a battery box seat that holds the 12V battery for the electric start conversion.

It also has the newer Wico X magneto.

Also notice that it does not have an alternator or generator.

Regardless of its' alterations and imperfections, <a href="https://youtu.be/WEKes6liznk">it does exactly what we need it to do</a>.

Hope this helps.

1940 John Deere B starting/stopping

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