Cylinder rust advice needed 1949 Styled Model A

swegner

New User
Hi all -

I'm continuing on with my 1949 styled Model A John Deere restore journey and am now a little frightened with the rust I encountered in the cylinders.

What started as simply replacing a rear wheel bearing and firing up a beloved tractor from my childhood - I foolishly figured to be a couple weeks worth of work.... has now ballooned into a full rebuild. AHHHH!

I've posted some photos of the cylinder head and engine block here so that you can get an idea of the rust I have questions about:

https://sites.google.com/site/pineridgeposts/project-updates/rustycylinders

I've been using a "google site" to post photos of the project for interested family members to view. You can see the rest of the photos here if you are curious about other aspects:

https://sites.google.com/site/pineridgeposts/project-updates

But the questions I have now are these:

I'm sure a rebore is in my future... but could the rust damage be so bad that even a rebore is not an option?

Is it possible to put sleeves into this type of engine? I have not seen it mentioned online anywhere.

I'm hoping to avoid buying an overboard piston kit.. they are crazy expensive. Yeiks.

Also, unrelated to the engine... are there standard bearings that will cross-reference to the rear wheel bearings on this tractor? According to this site: http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/14319690/johndeere-jd7392.html - the JD7392 wheel bearing looks to cross reference to a TIMKEN 33275 - which is readily available.

And related to the bearing.... the race part that is on the axle shaft... is sort of loose - so it rotates, but I don't see how it can be taken off without MUCH force. Is that normal? And if so - how do I remove it?

<whew!> Sorry about so many questions guys! I really appreciate any advice and comments!

Scott
 
You can sleeve the engine. Costly,
$600 a hole last I had one done. If
there is serious pitting, it likely
won't clean up by boring it. Most guys
sleeve it and go back to standard
pistons. Your pistons may clean up in
a blast cabinet, then you just buy new
rings and reuse pistons. Your
machinist will know what is best, if
he is any good with 2 cylinders. . .
 
It can be bored at least 125 thousandths &
whatever pits are left if any just don't matter on
these. New pistons, rings, pins are all in a kit. This
route is cheaper in the end than sleeving & makes a
better engine. Sleeving alone is $1200 plus. Rings
are another $250. Boring to fit new pistons is only
about $200, piston kit $350-550 so it's far cheaper,
far faster, easier & just a better engine. The original
pistons are extremely heavy (harder on bearings) &
very low compression.
 
pics
a191757.jpg

a191758.jpg
 
I agree with GTX (below). It looks a lot worse than it really is when you get pistons out and clean up a little. .125 (1/8") is a lot removed. If any pits were left it would never affect it. If it had gouges from something breaking in cylinder , that would be a diff. story.
 

Hey all - thanks for the thoughts and suggestions!

Any thoughts on what the best reference book out there is for this sort of thing? I picked up the John Deere Parts Manual and Service Manual for the A series - but was surprised that when it came to engine stuff... the service manual was a bit 'skimpy'. It was just a small section in the back that talked about engine work. I think I might get the IT (I think it is called) service manual for the A.

The head came off easy - but now I'm scratching my head on how to pull the block out.

Thanks!

Scott
 
Have you thought of getting a good used block from a salvaged tractor? Blocks are not too hard to remove. Unbolt the rods and an oil line to the lifters then all the external bolts, should pull off. Ron Mn
 
There was no Service Manual for the A or any other letter series model except the Model B. SM-2004 is the manual for the B. It's a real service manual that can also be used for an A. Forget the IT manual and get SM-2004.

What you're calling the A Service Manual is probably SM-2000 which is a general manual not specific to any model.
 
I&T manual will be cheaper but it's far less in details than a postcard usually. If any usable details are to be found within, it will be in the text alone. Usually one picture covers all models and they fail to show how it's taken apart. Better than nothing at all, but just barely. They don't really count next to a real manual. It's worth the $12 I paid for mine, but I had nothing then.
 

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