2010 RC, Left final drive locks up

Just a continuation of my thread on locked up brakes. Turns out it wasn't the left brake. I removed the drum on this '63 row crop and tried to drive forward. The tractor moved about 15 feet and the left wheel locks up and stalls the engine. It will back up just fine and can be run quite a distance without an issue but will again lock up when moved forward. Any advice would be appreciated. I have never attempted to remove or repair a final drive before.

Thank you, Greg
 
(quoted from post at 06:52:02 05/15/15) My guess locking up would be caused by galled axle/diff brg or faulty pinion shaft/gear

I've never torn into the drives before. I read about the process last night and it looks like an all day event. I'm guessing there is a bearing that has completely failed or a broken retainer. Seems unusual the tractor will run just fine in reverse but will only roll forward about 12-15 feet before it locks up. Looks like a weekend undertaking to get this pulled apart and identified.
 
Greg
Sorry, no clue as to the problem at hand. You have to tear it apart to find this one, only word of caution is to be sure and unhook the hydraulic supply line to the rock shaft before removing it.
 
(quoted from post at 08:15:25 05/16/15) Greg
Sorry, no clue as to the problem at hand. You have to tear it apart to find this one, only word of caution is to be sure and unhook the hydraulic supply line to the rock shaft before removing it.

Thanks Jo I will check it out. Interesting suggestion, the service manual skipped that step. My tractor has the power adjustable wheels and they have proven stubborn. I've done the dissembling by the book so far but don't have enough puller to get them off the drive splines. May have to contact the local tire shop and see if they have the equipment.
 
Before you pull the wheels take off the seat and the plate under it on the front of the rock shaft cover. That will allow you to see the ring gear and quill assembly in the rear end as shown in the attached picture. Who knows you may be able to fix it with out pulling the wheels.. btw, the hdy line is on the rt of the picture. Elbow bolts to the bottom of the cover with 2 bolts.
21016.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 07:40:29 05/18/15) Before you pull the wheels take off the seat and the plate under it on the front of the rock shaft cover. That will allow you to see the ring gear and quill assembly in the rear end as shown in the attached picture. Who knows you may be able to fix it with out pulling the wheels.. btw, the hdy line is on the rt of the picture. Elbow bolts to the bottom of the cover with 2 bolts.
21016.jpg

Just a quick update. I have pulled the left rear drive and disassembled. No painfully obvious problems identified. Ring gear and assembly under the seat looks good and seems smooth. With the rear end cribbed up I can rotate the rear tires and found the right rear to be very quiet, the left rear did make more mechanical noise than the right. I have now pulled the bearings and found the ones on the brake intermediate shaft were kind of sloppy with one feeling like it had a flat spot. I think i have identified the problem, bearings and seals are on order. I should have this reassembled by the end of next week after the parts arrive. Odd thing about this issue. The left rear would lock up when driven, with the wheels in the air I could spin the left or right freely and never experienced a lock up condition. I'm guessing it has to do with the directional loading of the bearings nor showing wear in the direction of the wheel driving the shaft and gears rather than the trans force loading the gears, just a guess at this point.

Greg
 

Unfortunately or fortunately how ever you look at it I have never had this problem so I can't say whats wrong, I hate it when nothing stands out as you have noted, you wont know till it all goes back together. Hopefully it fixes the problem, good luck and let us know the out come, thanks.
Jo
 
(quoted from post at 18:52:49 05/28/15)
Unfortunately or fortunately how ever you look at it I have never had this problem so I can't say whats wrong, I hate it when nothing stands out as you have noted, you wont know till it all goes back together. Hopefully it fixes the problem, good luck and let us know the out come, thanks.
Jo

Well here's the lowdown. Left rear drive completely rebuilt and the problem is still present. Looks like I have a differential malfunction. The rear drive was rebuilt in the driveway because the barn wasn't finished yet. Concrete was poured last Tuesday. Electrical will be run tomorrow weather permitting. Last details should be wrapped up this week or next. By July the floor should be ready for the weight and I will start digging into the top end to open things up and see what I can observe when the rear is cribbed up. Hadn't planned on having this much project less than a year after purchasing the tractor. I figure I need to fix it one way or another. Will post up what I find as this moves forward
 
(quoted from post at 23:20:37 06/15/15) Thanks for the updates, interested in the final cause and fix.

My belief is the spider gear or gear bearings are in tough shape. Being the tractor can be driven in reverse just fine makes me think there is one bearing trashed on the spider gears. Really won't know until I get it open and get a look at the inner workings of the final drive mechs.
 
(quoted from post at 18:52:49 05/28/15)
Unfortunately or fortunately how ever you look at it I have never had this problem so I can't say whats wrong, I hate it when nothing stands out as you have noted, you wont know till it all goes back together. Hopefully it fixes the problem, good luck and let us know the out come, thanks.
Jo

Well the verdict is in... Broken synchronizer plates in the trans. I have the tractor split and all the replacement parts are on the way including a new clutch and bearings. After a recommendation from Joe to try running the trans in odd and even gears i found one of the S-packs smoking. Upon disassemble there were parts of the disks in the bottom of the trans case. The low range pack exploded, The high range was nearly welded together and the reverse range was worn but functioning. I should have this back together in a week or so and should know if all the work successful.
 
(quoted from post at 18:02:37 08/04/15)
(quoted from post at 18:52:49 05/28/15)
Unfortunately or fortunately how ever you look at it I have never had this problem so I can't say whats wrong, I hate it when nothing stands out as you have noted, you wont know till it all goes back together. Hopefully it fixes the problem, good luck and let us know the out come, thanks.
Jo

Well the verdict is in... Broken synchronizer plates in the trans. I have the tractor split and all the replacement parts are on the way including a new clutch and bearings. After a recommendation from Joe to try running the trans in odd and even gears i found one of the S-packs smoking. Upon disassemble there were parts of the disks in the bottom of the trans case. The low range pack exploded, The high range was nearly welded together and the reverse range was worn but functioning. I should have this back together in a week or so and should know if all the work successful.

Make sure that you replace the shifting forks while you have it open
 

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